The third day’s saunter from Molinaseca to Cacabelos, 23 KM. A preview 10.06.24

16 Feb

 Molinaseca to Cacabelos

A song for today :- WALKING ON SUNSHINE 🌞 https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_nhO9Aa2UVNtiM3K5x0vB6weaJqpaif37I&si=lSRxmL55o_wKnUqU

Molinaseca to Cacabelos

Hiking EasyDistance 23 kmAscent 222 mDescent 324 m 5-6 hrsLow Point 479 mHigh Point 611 mGradient 4˚

Leaving Molinaseca is well marked and straight forward , mainly on sidewalks for the 8 KM stretch into Ponferrada, first is a most ancient village,Campo ,with a beautiful 17 th century church, the Iglesia de San Blas.

All around are patchwork fields, vineyards producing lovely Mercia and Godello reds and whites .

Ponferrada was a centre of Roman mining activity and became a large and prosperous settlement. In 1178 Templars made it a main stop on the Camino to serve and protect pilgrims. In the 13 th century they built the massive castle which is the iconic image of Ponferrada.

Castillo de Los Templarios

Almost Hollywood like ! Chosen because of the intersection of two rivers,the Sil and the Boeza and the views below of the fertile forests and valleys of the Bierzo region.

The Plaza Virgen de la Encina is the social and town centre of medieval Ponferrada ( second break fast anyone?) and home to its most celebrated Church.

It has a founding legend that weaves pagan spirituality with Christian.

“ The legend goes that, during the building of Ponferrada’s fortified castle, a knight went into the forest seeking more wood for the construction, and spotted Mary’s image on an ancient Oak. ( Oak trees were considered and sacred by pre- Christian peoples in Iberia ). Encina means Holm oak, hence Our Lady of the Oak.” B.Bahrami MOON Camino de Santiago guide .

Click on the link for more information about Ponferrada

Arrows and scallop shells will take us over the Pons Ferrara bridge and west out of the town.In the 12 th century it needed to be reinforced with iron supports – that is how the town got its name. Onwards through residential areas, parks and tree lined streets. Some of the residents have attached symbols of the Camino ,such as brass scallop shells and arrows to their garden walls and gates, shortly arriving at Compostila.

Compostilla is a curious place. It was largely built by a private mining and energy company and its rectilinear streets, complete with football pitches and schools, is reminiscent of something out of an upper class North American neighborhood.

On your way through you will pass Nuestra Señora del Refugio, an indication that Compostilla had a place for pilgrims long ago.

The Santa María de Compostilla church (in honor of Compostela) was built in 1948, in the neo-Romanesque style. 
Surrounded by grass and trees, it offers a haven of peace on the pilgrim’s path to Santiago de Compostela. There are many links here with St James and Mary

We recommence the way along a pleasant country road leading us very shortly into Columbrianos – good views to be had of mountains to the left, vineyards and apple trees – this area is called the “ garden valley of Ponferrada”.

Bar-Albergue San Blas is recommended here.
Ermita de San Blas y San Roque
1998 Mural of St James in an elaborate cape.

The route continues through similar countryside, giant Collards used for Cocido or sautéed with bacon ( an Irish link? ) are found in many of the gardens. Almost immediately we enter Fuentes Nuevas – a sleepy place – and one of the older villages.

In Castillian Spanish or Español, Collards are known by several names. The two heard more often are Acelgas or Berza
Along its Calle Real village doors and fences are festooned with statues of St James, scallop shells and original, hanging black kettle pots.

Fuentes Nuevas has a local wine maker that invites Pelegrinos to stop for a wine tasting with pinchos- it’s on the left 3/4 way, down Calle Flores.

Must leave room in my rucksack!

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=eqYNTToDp-I&si=uCXdWHS5m-dhHItQ GIMME THAT WINE by Georgie Fame.

In a short while we shall reach Camponaraya – leaving the rural idyll behind – the name comes from campo meaning countryside and naraya , the river that flows through here. Then through a straggling industrial suburb; the N120 running through it – waymarks impressed in the slabs,various cafes en route.

Not a pretty place but it has origins in the peak of the medieval Camino in the 11-12th centuries and once had a pilgrims’ hospital.
It has more of an industrial feel than of late and we leave along the LE-713.
Vineyards of the Bierzo region which we traverse after crossing the A6 by footbridge – this typifies the route all the way into Cacabelos

Cacabelos is located in the center of El Bierzo. This area is widely known for its white wine.

The first settlement was founded by King Alfonso IX in the 10th century. After a devastating earthquake, the town was rebuilt in the 12th century.

The Camino Santiago enters Cacabelos from the East passing the Hermitage of San Roque and later the church of Santa Maria.

Continuing our way through town we reach the bridge over River Cúa, where you can have a refreshing swim.Near the bridge, you can see the beautifully renovated building of an old mill with the olive press in front.

Another attraction of Cacabelos is the Sanctuary of la Quinta Angustia. Inside the building, the altar shows the baby Jesus playing cards with San Antonio de Padua.

Santuario de las Augustias

Links and more information about this settlement:-

https://www.barcelo.com/guia-turismo/en/spain/leon/things-to-do/que-visitar-en-cacabelos/

Cacabelos Mercardo de Abastos open every morning – local foods,fruit, cheeses,vegetables and sausages.
Our resting place for this evening
un lugar acogedor para relajarse

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