Surprisingly it was back to the buses for the second day in Thessaloniki. The first boat did not depart from PEREA until 11.45. Thankfully there was not the congestion on the buses nor the roads until the last two stops before we alighted by the White Tower. It looked like a steepish walk uphill to the Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki, or Castle as we called it. There was a peaceful coffee stop en route adjacent to some ruins and away from the road.

We continued the walk upwards at one point between two cemeteries one of which was designated “ The Protestant Cemetery “

The fortress has towered over the city of Thessaloniki, Greece, for over 1,000 years. It was first constructed during the Byzantine era (330 AD to 1453 AD), although this most recent version was rebuilt by the Ottomans after they conquered the city in the 1400s. It goes by a few names: Heptapyrgion, Eptapyrgio, and Yedi Kule, all of which mean “Fortress of Seven Towers.” It’s a bit of a misnomer, though, as the fortress actually has 10 towers.

ACROPOLIS-EPTAPYRGIO

The Thessaloniki Acropolis lies in the northeastern and highest point of the city, just beyond Vlatadon Monastery and inside the northen wall of the city, which is in a relatively good state of preservation. Two big gates, the “portares”, lead inside the Acropolis which was the second line of defence in case of siege of the city. Next to the east gate as it leads outside the Acropolis, at the corner of the northen and eastern walls, the tower of Trigonio (or Pyrovolio) dominates and offers magnificient views of the city. All in all it is a huge site, there are 4 kilometres of walls still intact.

The Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki has grown and changed over the centuries, absorbing the architectural influence of the many cultures, communities, and political dynasties that have made Thessaloniki the diverse city it is today. While it has spent the past 25 or so years as a tourist attraction and a UNESCO world heritage recognized site, it’s final function for the century or so before its ‘retirement’ was as a prison – a bit of a gloomy period for an otherwise magnificent building.

To the Greeks, Heptapyrgion is haunted by memories of turbulent periods within their recent history. The fortress held political prisoners during troubled times like the fascist dictatorship of 1936, the years of Nazi occupation and the civil war that followed it, and the seven year-long military junta that began in 1967. Those interned there faced harsh conditions. Torture was common, and hundreds of inmates were executed at an infamous spot not far from the fortress.

Acropolis means upper city and there are people still living up here.

After spending some time meandering around the rest of the site – it takes a fair amount of time and energy, it was back down to the port side and finally to hitch a ride on the taxi boat.

After leaving the busy cafe lined beach of PEREA , the walk was along quiet stretches of deserted sand, with intermittent houses and apartments.

We were intrigued by two blue domes in the distance and after a coffee stop we were surprised to find that it was a very grand hotel. The Santa Beach Hotel,in fact.

No competition and € 108 a night for a twin,including breakfast. Some might say fair enough.

AGYA TRIADA, the next village was a contrast to PEREA. It was reminiscent of Crete – quiet lanes off the front and a pedestrianised area with a few traditional Tavernas.

Leaving the village we passed some contrasting scrub and a derelict site ( not pictured )which was difficult to determine . The tarmac ended and the trail narrowed as we began to ascend the cliff-side.

The views were worth the climb.

The scenery changed into quite arable smallholdings, interspersed with cottages. There were vineyards and Olive groves.

Then it was a retracing of our steps to Perea, admiring this bountiful collection of flora en route.

TWO DAYS LATER…A CONTRASTING WALK IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.

There was a long stretch of beach mostly deserted and it became apparent why there were no hotel nor beachside facilities except for the odd bin. The beach was strewn with seaweed and there was a steepish drop – too great for little ones – perhaps the proximity of the airport was another factor.

The road was closed at what we presumed was the edge of Thessaloniki airport

The only other sight of interest was this restaurant that seemed to be attached to airforce living quarters

Thankfully we returned to the sunbeds and cold drinks at Paso’s,our now regular bar and beach hire spot.

1 Thessalonians 4:12

“so that you will behave properly toward outsiders and not be in any need”

Well just to make clear we did not decide upon Thessaloniki as a result of St Paul’s exhortations to the Thessalonians,but because of its reputation as a hospitable and historic city. Furthermore, researches beyond the New Testament convinced us that the nearby town of PEREA and its beaches might be the best base. After four days here, including a day in Thessaloniki, it is proving to be worthwhile research.

After a “ Silly O’ Clock” departure from Birmingham, easy passage through security , we arrived at our apartment in PEREA at 12.30. After some confusion about finding the keys, we climbed the stairs and quickly took stock – the three balconies looked great.

A light lunch in an impressive local bakery and walk down to the beach.

PEREA

The origin of settlement in Peraia was the arrival of 740 refugees from Asia Minor and Eastern Thrace in 1923, as a result of the Greco-Turkish War (1919–22).

Today Peraia, together with the other suburbs of Thermaikos, forms one of the most rapidly developing suburbs of Thessaloniki. Wikipedia

Also,PEREA from the Greek: peran (Iordanou) [“beyond Jordan”]. District on the east side of the Jordan river whose northern border was south of Pella in the Decapolis … Not sure if there is any connection between the two.

“Perea has changed a lot since 1923 when the first residents (refugees from Asia Minor and Thrace) settled. Perea it has changed from a small refugee town into a beautiful city with the features of a tourist destination that does not need to envy the other more promoted regions in Greece.At a distance of just 15 km from the “MAKEDONIA” International Airport and 20 km from the centre of the city of Thessaloniki. Perea is an easily accessible destination for visitors who want to enjoy beaches with crystal clear blue waters, fresh fish, seafood and traditional dishes, and ouzo appetizers with the local tsipouro drink and wine or their coffee, literally on the beach with a view of the Thermaikos Gulf and the city of Thessaloniki.

The traditional stroll along the beach is a unique experience. Abundant cultural and sporting events are an attraction, especially during the summer months with the characteristic “bicycle ride” that is organised every summer by the Municipal sports centre, with visitors of all ages participating daily. With a rich tradition in terms of the sea, the residents in the region have established two sailing clubs, NORTH and TORONEO, whose members have participated in both Greek and International regattas.The School of Macedonian Tourism Professions has been based in Perea since 1974 and has a significant impact on the development of tourism in the region.”

There is some overstatement in the above article! You could not call it either beautiful,nor a city – but it is an excellent beach resort and the promenade is a great feature.

“So then, brethren, stand firm and hold to the traditions which you were taught by us, either by word of mouth or by letter” (2 Thess. 2:15).

One of the attractions of an apartment is the flexibility it gives – no timetable and the opportunity to both eat out locally and shop locally… and to cook at home, BBQs being a particular favourite.