By the time we had got down to breakfast in La Huella,Ranjit had departed – we were not to see him for the rest of the day, not until our accommodation for the evening, El Descanso de Wendy, in Astorga. Plus la meme chose….you walk the Camino your own way, they say and why not?George from Dublin with RobSue and Mike on their wayWaiting for the bus to Orbigo to miss out 5 KM of main road walking We began our walk from Hospital del Orbigo, with its marvellous bridge.
The 13th-century stone bridge of Hospital de Órbigo is 200 metres long and boasts twenty arches, which now mostly rest on bare ground now that a dam blocks much of the Orbigo River, but the bridge survives because of the Camino-worthy legend of Don Suero de Quiñones.
The legend of Don Suero and his duel attracts lovers of the Middle Ages to this bridge.It is a 13th-century bridge which served and still serves as part of the Pilgrim’s Road to Santiago de Compostela. The legend says that on this bridge a knight from Leon confronted some foreigners who wanted to cross it in a duel in order to undo a pledge of slavery to his beloved Lady Leonor, under which he would have to fast every Thursday and wear a heavy iron ring around his neck. He must have broken 300 lances. He did not succeed, but the judges of the contest repaid Don Suero by freeing him from the ring. For this reason, the bridge is known as Passo Honroso (Honourable Crossing).It was such an interesting scene that we took advantage of the cafe overlooking the flood plain and the river.From here there are two possible routes, along side the RN 120,or through the countryside on the “ real” Camino – we chose the latter,albeit KM1.2 longer. It was to prove to be a good choice .Irrigation channels are always to be found alongside the fields which in this area were mainly for vegetable growing. An ingenious way to grow your tomatoes etcIrises in the ditchesLooking across towards Villares del Orbigo.It was a familiar pleasure to be both walking in agreeable countryside and passing through a village where the Camino was celebrated.We didn’t hang about here for too long.Decorative shells. The water bottles are not for consumption, they are placed to stop passing dogs cocking their legs up. Apparently they are afraid of their own reflection.Descanso is a term used to imply a restful place
A fabulous front garden display
A well ordered HuertaThe sign for Santibanez de Valdieglesias A long and impressive name for a hamlet that contained very little except its church.A rare graffiti- less sign. Maybe the Welsh idiot left his crayons behind in his cot.Away in a MangerJohn Brierley, in his guidebook described the final 1/3 of the Camino, walking through Castille and Leon into Galicia as the most varied scenery of the entire Camino. This began with some light hill walking – Rob and Tom on the ascent.It’s a fairly common practice for pilgrims to place stones at the foot of a Cruceiro – prayers, regrets and hopes – not so customary for there to be dummy alongside!Pleasant sauntering along these paths – it has been a litter free Camino for the most part. They say leave nothing behind but your footprint.More mountains…maybe next year ?I am wearing these for this final stage as my other pair caused a blister just under my right ankle bone – only the second time I’ve ever had a blister – both in the same place! A compeed plaster did the trick.We were more than ready for refreshments when in the middle of the countryside we came upon this “ oasis”.A “Donativo” – which means you contribute what you can for what you partake – the watermelon was the coldest and best I have ever enjoyed and crushing oranges to make your own juice was fun. What a banquet, put together by a young hippie. The rose garden beyond was a credit to the huertino responsible. All around were opportunities to relax, from hammocks to loungers. A great place – the Camino provides…for a donation.This crossroads and Crucero are above San Justo de la Vega – a village below the hill which was to eventually merge with the outskirts of Astorga.A field of wild flowers Looking down on San Justo and Astorga – mountains away in the backgroundThis was to be a long walk downhill – poles come into their own on descents.A striking sculpture by a welcome fountain at the bottom of the hill.Not much livestock on this Camino dominated by arable farmlands and then only in barns or stockades. I suspect that most of the milk and meat comes from the Asturias, to the north of here.Crossing the River TuertoMellow YellowSan Justo is strung out along the RN 120 and of little remark so we were glad to enter the outskirts of Astorga.We climbed up a helter skelter pedestrian crossing, over the single track Palencia to A Coruna railway.Spires of Astorga cathedral in the distanceThen it was up the hill into Astorga. A city with a colourful history dating back to Roman times and famous for two buildings in particular. Eleven miles completed by the time we reached our hotel.The construction of the Cathedral began in 1471, rebuilding the old Romanesque cathedral on the same site, the building was not completed until the eighteenth century, so we can find different styles of Spanish religious art combined in the same building. The Renaissance façade of the Bishops by Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón are of particular note, the main façade by Pablo Antonio Ruiz from the Baroque era, built at the beginning from the 18th century and the astonishing façade on which five scenes of the life of Christ are sculpted; the main altarpiece, masterpiece of Gaspar Becerra of the sixteenth century, which narrates the life of the Virgin; among the outstandng imagery are the Virgin of the Majesty carving from the 12th century with Byzantine influences and the Immaculate of Gregorio Fernandez from the sixteenth century; and from the same time the choir stalls can be admired, or the Hispano-Flemish altarpiece of San Miguel.After the destruction, due to fire, of the previous residence, Bishop Juan Bautista Grau Vallespinós had the present palace built by his fellow countryman and personal friend, the architect Antonio Gaudí. Construction works began in 1889, but after the sudden death of Bishop Gaudí leaves project being stopped until the architect Ricardo García Guereta finished it in 1913. In addition to the mentioned architects, several artists worked inside the palace, highlighting the fresco artist Fernando Villodas; the French glassmaker José Maumejean; and the sculptor Enrique Marín. Because of its uniqueness, it is one of the most outstanding buildings of the Astorgan architectural heritage. In 1963, it became a Museum of the Caminos, and it exhibits several and outstanding pieces from the Diocese of Astorga that include from prehistory, epigraphy and Roman numismatics, religious art from different periods and contemporary art.
Most Camigos walked the short distance to the Cathedral and the GAUDI designed episcopal place for a tour – the unquenchable curiosity of true pilgrims – curiosity satisfied, it was time to join pilgrims and locals for a beer in the sunshine….
Amongst the tables of the appropriately named Cafe Gaudi.
Where are they all?Our accomodation was at the unusually named El Descanso de Wendy. A beautifully decorated, small apartment-hotel. This was our room,complete with patio.Breakfast was as tasteful as the decor.Sunday morning and off to the bus station for a long journey down to MadridWe had great seats complete with table and TV screens if required.Some rainy weather en route,taken at speed!
The bus terminated at Madrid airport – our hotel was only five minutes from terminal 4 – unfortunately the new bus station is based by terminals 1,2 & 3 – the airport was very busy and the queue for taxis was over a 100 metres long! Overcoming our astonishment we joined the line and were relieved to have had to wait only 20 minutes to get a cab. The final evening was spent in a restaurant around the corner from the hotel – sharing tapas and supping excellent red wine from Extramadura – a pleasant change from Rioja. Then early to bed for Monday morning ‘s 4.30 am taxi ride back to the airport .The flight arrived 15 minutes early at Birmingham airport and we were through passport control in two minutes. Mike had organised taxis and we were home before 9 am.
ensuitepilgrim's Blog 
Great summary of a very enjoyable walk. Thanks, John
We’ll written and scholarly, as always. You manage to convey the essence of an interesting and enjoyable Spanish pilgrimage!