In my last Blog I wrote quite a piece on Albergue La Morena, however, the reality of staying there yesterday ( Sat. 10/05/23 ), was quite different. A tale of two contrasting scenarios. FIRST the rooms were modern and bright, with nice touches – fruit bowl, complimentary water, foot cream and hydration pack – the problem was getting in to the room. It took 50 minutes to register and get keys, I was unimpressed by the initial greeting I got on entrance , from a diminutive woman dressed impeccably in white – “ You’ll have to wait “ – she made no effort to assist her hapless colleague on reception duties. SECOND after enjoying a couple of beers in the sun we made our way to dinner promptly at 19.00 as ordered. We examined the Pilgrim Menu 2 choices of first and second courses,3 for dessert. Traditionally, and in every restaurant I have ever eaten, water,soft drink, beer or wine is included in the menu – this menu “ included” water / bread.The receptionist came for our drinks order – 2 bottles of wine €36.50 – no house wine! Then eventually our order for the meal,was taken by the barman, they had run out of one of the choices ( there were only two ). One of the first courses was Estufado of Broccoli ( broccoli stew ). It has to be the worst thing I have ever seen on a Spanish plate. TG I had the soup which was lukewarm . It took 45 minute before any food was served. My main gripe was not the poor quality of the food,on a Camino you can expect the occasional stinker, what enraged me ? It was totally unpilgrimlike and not in the spirit of the Camino . IE – a rip- off as there was no other place to go in this small hamlet. Grandmother La Morena would be turning in her grave.
GRIPE OVER
Sunday’s walk began under cloudless, blue skies. We passed an Albergue on the way out of Ledigos
The Templar Knights were a powerful force in medieval times around here.After an hour we had a drinks break and Sue had already walked around the stones in circles…Very soon another Pelegrina passing by, stopped said Hola and She,too, walked around in circles! “It’s a female thing” said Sue.In contrast to yesterday’ s saunter, the longest,amenity- less stretch on the whole Camino, we had choices on this stage.The Albergue bar in Moratinos Very Moorish – hiding an overgrown patch of under growth !The square by Iglesia de Santo Tomas decked out in colourful Knit-yarn creations made not only by a local group but from places as far away as Pennysylvania!Competition in the next village which was still some way away More Hobbit like bodegas dug into the hillside The competition Reminded me of a song we used to sing on school coach outings “ Oh you’ll never get to heaven ( repeat ) on that green bike ( repeat ) ‘ cus halfway there you’ll have to hike ( repeat ) . We used to use teachers’ names!Knock, Knock….Some examples of the flora en routeHuge Broom shrubsSuch is the influence and affection for the Camino, even the motorways get named after it.Tom is examining the information as we leave Palencia and enter Leon Province – first view of Sahagun in the distance.Apparently, the last third of our Camino (hopefully next year ) has the most diverse qualities of landscape on the whole Camino .The landscape may change but your shadow won’t as we continually head West.SAHAGUN AHEAD Look carefully and you will see a very tall priest. Not often you see Religious on the Camino which may seem strange considering it is a pilgrimage . We didn’t see the priest very often without an acolyte in close proximity…” One More Step Along The Road I Go” .. sing along with Sydney Carter’s classic
https://youtu.be/5jhAzbdKq6UWe crossed this medieval twin- arched bridge over the small Valderaduey river which lead to the Ermita de la Virgen del Puente. This was an Augustinian pilgrims’ hospice in the Middle Ages. It was also a pleasant stop for an impromptu lunch in the adjoining picnic area.Some excavations going on too.We eventually left via this unlikely grandiose gateway – “ centro geografico del Camino “ and made our way to the accommodation at ALBERGUE San Juan, where we were very efficiently booked in by dad and daughter.A sunny windowsill on the 2nd floor. Now for a walkabout in Sahagun.
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