SAN MARTIN DEL CAMINO – ASTORGA 25Km The Final Stage of Our Camino,May 2023 and WENDY’s REST.

27 Apr
Looks fairly flat, apparently some friendly hills towards the end of the journey

“ The majority of this stage is relatively solitary so bring food and water ( there are few villages on the way ) however there are attractive sections with trees and other shade in which to rest out of the sun…allow some time to savour Orbigo. Note the last section beyond Orbigo has some gentle hills” JB

Let’s hope we don’t feel like that when we reach Astorga
Nuff said !

BB gives some further advice, “ If it rains, even only slightly, along this stretch, watch the path under your feet,for snails and caterpillars may come out to revel in the precipitation. Notice that the terrain is changing, shifting from mustard yellow towards a darker,iron- rich Earth. The fields around you grow many large-scale crops, including corn,potatoes and sugar beets.”

The Puente del Paso Honroso is called a “ top experience” by BB “ the 19-arched bridge “.

“ Pause for a while,take off your backpack and enjoy the magnificent sight of the bridge over the River Orbigo. It’s the longest on the Way, having no fewer than 19 arches and making more than one change of direction along its length.” SR
“ However,before crossing look carefully in case a knight in armour is barring your passage. The story goes that in the year 1434, in a Co with a promise he had given to a lady, Suero de Quinones mounted guard on the bridge from 10 July to 10 August and challenged whoever might wish to cross to a joust. The episode came to be called El Paso Honroso ( the honourable pass ). He found himself with plenty to do, as it is said that in that space of time 166 opponents faced him. He defeated them all.” SR
Let’s hope we can cross without a fight ! WP rightly states that “ Where there are rivers with bridges there is always history to be found”. And we should add, fabulous stories too.
It is also rumoured that the said knight set off on his own pilgrimage to Santiago. JB suggests that this act of chivalry’ “May have been the an inspiration for Cervantes’ Don Quixote “

“ Pass over the bridge to the equally delightful village which, on the far side becomes Hospital de Orbigo and a knights commandery of the ancient Order of St. John who maintained a pilgrim hospital here”

LEAVING HOSPITAL de ORBIGO “ Follow the yellow arrows out of town where the main road through Hospital de Orbigo turns from black asphalt to a wide earth path. Here the road splits, one following the Astorga / Camino Way to the right, and the other Astorga / by Highway to the left.BB Both JB & BB recommend the the turn to the right. “Staying on the Camino Way is more beautiful,wilder and rewarding, passing through low red hills,wheat fields and groves; this also seems to be the original path of the Camino and has more food and accommodation support.” BB “ It is only a little longer…and above all, you do not have to hear the traffic” . SR

There is a bar and a shop here. On leaving the village BB informs us. “ Keep your eyes open for wildlife, including hawks and falcons that hunt small game from the treetops and ride air pockets in the sky. Sant Ibanez de Valdeiglesias come shortly after leaving here , population 323. “ the village itself could be missed in the blink of an eye” BB
“ This place is in the heart of corn country, so much so that locals call it “El laberinto de maiz “ ( the corn labyrinth “ BB
One dog,man missing! But it does have a bar situated in the Albergue Camino Frances.

After 5 Km or so you come upon La Casa de Dioses.BB is the only one of the four guides I have been referencing to mention this “ free pilgrim paradise”. La Casa de Dioses “ feels like a small encampment on the Mongolian Steppe. Yurt like shelters made of blankets give warmth as does a hot kettle of tea. Bowls of fruit are arrayed on tree stumps and a food stand is arrayed with cheeses hard boiled eggs,yogurt, juices and vegetables….Drop what you can afford in the money jar and take what you need” . BB. David Vidal from Barcelona operates this oasis,he makes everyone welcome and his shelter is based on the honour system, hauling the fuel and water here himself . Such humility and grace.

Let’s hope this Camino Angel is still there when we walk by. “ You will notice that the landscape is changing. The plain is now behind you…you will encounter a series of climbs. The terrain is not demanding, however,and is certainly more interesting….You will then come to one of the notable features of the day , the Crucero de San Toribo. From here you can see,on the plain below, the two towns which still lie ahead”. SR

They are San Justo de la Vega and Astorga.

Following an initial steepish path downwards we come into San Justo de la Vega,” an expanding residential satellite of Astorga with several bars and restaurants” JB.

“ San Justo de la vega is not a beautiful town, but it has beautiful aspects, such as it’s surrounding fields and kitchen gardens, speckled with fluffy white sheep and it’s 17 th century church, of San Justo, a simple but pretty adornment on the town’s highest hill” BB
“ From San Justo de la Vega we continue out over the bridge and the Rio Tuerto and turn off right to take a pleasant track that runs along the river valley past the side of a factory crossing the Roma footbridge, Puente del Molderia,upto the main road …into the outer suburbs of Astorga .”JB He neglects the fact that aforesaid factory makes thousands of hojaldres de Astorga- flakey,honey dripping cakes. Those with a sweet tooth won’t be disappointed
Before we can enjoy these delights we come across what BB describes as “ a nutty zigzagging bridge ( some pilgrims call it the jolly green giant ).
Or,” the Peregrino torture tower over the railroad tracks…designed to keep pedestrians safe and away from the tracks. Then it is up the slope and in to Astorga and our accommodation for the night.
Boutique accommodation in Astorga
DESCANSO DE WENDY is a boutique accommodation located in the center of the bi-millennial city of Astorga, with easy parking outside.
We are a 2-minute walk from the Cathedral of Santa María and also from the Episcopal Palace (Gaudí), from the square itself we can visit the Roman Museum and its excavations, as well as the different and unique Churches, Museums, squares and buildings of interest artistic-historical.
WENDY’S REST is made up of only SIX ROOMS or SUITES, two of them on each floor of the building.
All with private bathroom or toilet in the room itself, furnished and decorated in an eclectic style with state-of-the-art TV, hairdryer, exterior windows and beds with “Premium” mattresses and pillows, as well as toiletries and extra cotton bed linen.
The laundry service is optional
Included in the price of the accommodation we will serve you our accredited
Maragato Breakfast , consisting of a seasonal fruit starter, followed by a hot dish cooked at the moment and a dessert of delicious pastries and sweets from the region.
All rooms of the accommodation have free WI-FI. ( From the hotel’s website ) 4.5 and rated excellent on Trip Advisor.
As for Astorga ? That will be in the next and final instalment of this series of Camino previews .

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