Mansillas de Mulas to Leon 12.4 miles DAY 9

6 Apr

“Thou shield of that faith which in Spain we revere

Thou Scourge of each foeman who dares to draw near

Whom the Son of the God whom the elements tames,

Called Child of the Thunder, Immortal Saint James!”

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

~ Pilgrims’ hymn, translated by George Burrows

Modern day protectors on the Camino – The Guardia Civil – what a cultural difference from my first encounters with them in the 70s.

NOTE THE SHELL
ORIGINAL GUARDIA CIVIL MOTIF

I thought I should preface today ( I’m writing this on Maundy Thursday ) by reminding us of the four principal sources I have used: CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Sergi Ramos – SR in the text. A WISE PILGRIM GUIDE TO THE CAMINO FRANCES – WP in the text. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO , A PILGRIM’S GUIDE – John Brierley – JB. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO -MOON – Beebe Bahrami – BB in the text .

This would appear to be a relatively straightforward saunter and SR interestingly,gives it most attention. “ …it is a testing one …the towns along the stage are far apart,although all of them,with the exception of Villamoros de Mansilla, have at least a bar , restaurant and grocery store. It is necessary , however, to carry sufficient water,above all for the first section.” WELL NOTHING WE WOULDN’T DO ANYWAY !

“Much of the way between here and Puente de Villarente is adjacent to the road. “WP

Just a little further on is the Archaeological site of Lancia – “ a detour to the right …the partially excavated ruins of the Roman settlement of Lancia “BB

After 6 KM or so “ Villarente shaded area down by the river ( The first building( left) was a medieval pilgrim hospital which operated a donkey ambulance service for sick pilgrims to Leon ). There are several cafes to choose from here.

“ The river here once posted a serious threat to pilgrims when waters ran high and as a result it became home to several pilgrim hospices”WP

“ As you are leaving Puente behind you,keep an eye out for arrows pointing you along a trail to your right hand side ,and up a small hill towards Arcahueja. It is fairly well marked but is along a service road that is often lined with parked trucks and the way might be obscured “ WP

Next up is Arcahueja,” The last chance to take a rest in the relative quiet before we hit the city traffic.150 metres off route,( left) is the welcoming bar La Torre”. JB

It is also an Albergue.
As traditional as it gets…Thank goodness

Puente Castro is the last notable place before entering Leon. ( The modern buildings here disguise the fact that this was an influential Jewish district in the XIIth c and site of a former Roman settlement “ JB

We the shall continue through the “ Leon suburbs up the wide Alcarde Miguel Castano ,eventually arriving at Av. Del Europa and then into Plaza de SantaAna…here we can calm frayed nerves “( speak for yourself ) JB. Then on through Puerta Moneda one of the original gateways to the medieval city ( note the vast city walls as you pass) JB
PUERTA MONEDA

And the digs for this night,and our rest day ( 2 nights in all ) is rated 9. on Booking.com HOSPEDERIA MONASTICA PAX . It’ ll have to do….

In the old part of town. We shall probably take ourselves off to the BARRIO HUMEDO “A district made to delight the senses, the Barrio Húmedo is home to the essence of Leon. The weight of tradition can be felt in the old shop fronts, in the web of streets whose names are a testimony to the medieval guilds who worked there, and in the infinite number of bars and restaurants that have given the district its name. The local custom of tapas (small snacks served with every drink) here takes on almost religious dimensions. The Barrio Húmedo is a place not to be missed.
The history of Leon, a very human city, full of culture and made for walking, is encapsulated in the Calle Ancha, one of the most beautiful streets in the city. A testimony to local hard work and talent, seen in the 19th century buildings that still do business there.” Quoted from leon.es.

The literal translation means “ damp quarter’ – say no more!
APROVECHE !

One Response to “Mansillas de Mulas to Leon 12.4 miles DAY 9”

  1. slodown's avatar
    slodown 06/04/2023 at 23:22 #

    Enjoy your well earned rest.
    I’m enjoying your amusing asides to “JB”
    👍🏼

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