“Thou shield of that faith which in Spain we revere
Thou Scourge of each foeman who dares to draw near
Whom the Son of the God whom the elements tames,
Called Child of the Thunder, Immortal Saint James!”

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
~ Pilgrims’ hymn, translated by George Burrows
Modern day protectors on the Camino – The Guardia Civil – what a cultural difference from my first encounters with them in the 70s.


I thought I should preface today ( I’m writing this on Maundy Thursday ) by reminding us of the four principal sources I have used: CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Sergi Ramos – SR in the text. A WISE PILGRIM GUIDE TO THE CAMINO FRANCES – WP in the text. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO , A PILGRIM’S GUIDE – John Brierley – JB. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO -MOON – Beebe Bahrami – BB in the text .
This would appear to be a relatively straightforward saunter and SR interestingly,gives it most attention. “ …it is a testing one …the towns along the stage are far apart,although all of them,with the exception of Villamoros de Mansilla, have at least a bar , restaurant and grocery store. It is necessary , however, to carry sufficient water,above all for the first section.” WELL NOTHING WE WOULDN’T DO ANYWAY !

Just a little further on is the Archaeological site of Lancia – “ a detour to the right …the partially excavated ruins of the Roman settlement of Lancia “BB

After 6 KM or so “ Villarente shaded area down by the river ( The first building( left) was a medieval pilgrim hospital which operated a donkey ambulance service for sick pilgrims to Leon ). There are several cafes to choose from here.
“ The river here once posted a serious threat to pilgrims when waters ran high and as a result it became home to several pilgrim hospices”WP



Next up is Arcahueja,” The last chance to take a rest in the relative quiet before we hit the city traffic.150 metres off route,( left) is the welcoming bar La Torre”. JB


Puente Castro is the last notable place before entering Leon. ( The modern buildings here disguise the fact that this was an influential Jewish district in the XIIth c and site of a former Roman settlement “ JB




And the digs for this night,and our rest day ( 2 nights in all ) is rated 9. on Booking.com HOSPEDERIA MONASTICA PAX . It’ ll have to do….



The history of Leon, a very human city, full of culture and made for walking, is encapsulated in the Calle Ancha, one of the most beautiful streets in the city. A testimony to local hard work and talent, seen in the 19th century buildings that still do business there.” Quoted from leon.es.
The literal translation means “ damp quarter’ – say no more!


Enjoy your well earned rest.
I’m enjoying your amusing asides to “JB”
👍🏼