Looks fairly flat, apparently some friendly hills towards the end of the journey
“ The majority of this stage is relatively solitary so bring food and water ( there are few villages on the way ) however there are attractive sections with trees and other shade in which to rest out of the sun…allow some time to savour Orbigo. Note the last section beyond Orbigo has some gentle hills” JB
Let’s hope we don’t feel like that when we reach AstorgaNuff said !
BB gives some further advice, “ If it rains, even only slightly, along this stretch, watch the path under your feet,for snails and caterpillars may come out to revel in the precipitation. Notice that the terrain is changing, shifting from mustard yellow towards a darker,iron- rich Earth. The fields around you grow many large-scale crops, including corn,potatoes and sugar beets.”
The Puente del Paso Honroso is called a “ top experience” by BB “ the 19-arched bridge “.
“ Pause for a while,take off your backpack and enjoy the magnificent sight of the bridge over the River Orbigo. It’s the longest on the Way, having no fewer than 19 arches and making more than one change of direction along its length.” SR“ However,before crossing look carefully in case a knight in armour is barring your passage. The story goes that in the year 1434, in a Co with a promise he had given to a lady, Suero de Quinones mounted guard on the bridge from 10 July to 10 August and challenged whoever might wish to cross to a joust. The episode came to be called El Paso Honroso ( the honourable pass ). He found himself with plenty to do, as it is said that in that space of time 166 opponents faced him. He defeated them all.” SRLet’s hope we can cross without a fight ! WP rightly states that “ Where there are rivers with bridges there is always history to be found”. And we should add, fabulous stories too.It is also rumoured that the said knight set off on his own pilgrimage to Santiago. JB suggests that this act of chivalry’ “May have been the an inspiration for Cervantes’ Don Quixote “
“ Pass over the bridge to the equally delightful village which, on the far side becomes Hospital de Orbigo and a knights commandery of the ancient Order of St. John who maintained a pilgrim hospital here”
LEAVING HOSPITAL de ORBIGO “ Follow the yellow arrows out of town where the main road through Hospital de Orbigo turns from black asphalt to a wide earth path. Here the road splits, one following the Astorga / Camino Way to the right, and the other Astorga / by Highway to the left.BB Both JB & BB recommend the the turn to the right. “Staying on the Camino Way is more beautiful,wilder and rewarding, passing through low red hills,wheat fields and groves; this also seems to be the original path of the Camino and has more food and accommodation support.” BB “ It is only a little longer…and above all, you do not have to hear the traffic” . SR
There is a bar and a shop here. On leaving the village BB informs us. “ Keep your eyes open for wildlife, including hawks and falcons that hunt small game from the treetops and ride air pockets in the sky. Sant Ibanez de Valdeiglesias come shortly after leaving here , population 323. “ the village itself could be missed in the blink of an eye” BB“ This place is in the heart of corn country, so much so that locals call it “El laberinto de maiz “ ( the corn labyrinth “ BBOne dog,man missing! But it does have a bar situated in the Albergue Camino Frances.
After 5 Km or so you come upon La Casa de Dioses.BB is the only one of the four guides I have been referencing to mention this “ free pilgrim paradise”. La Casa de Dioses “ feels like a small encampment on the Mongolian Steppe. Yurt like shelters made of blankets give warmth as does a hot kettle of tea. Bowls of fruit are arrayed on tree stumps and a food stand is arrayed with cheeses hard boiled eggs,yogurt, juices and vegetables….Drop what you can afford in the money jar and take what you need” . BB. David Vidal from Barcelona operates this oasis,he makes everyone welcome and his shelter is based on the honour system, hauling the fuel and water here himself . Such humility and grace.
Let’s hope this Camino Angel is still there when we walk by. “ You will notice that the landscape is changing. The plain is now behind you…you will encounter a series of climbs. The terrain is not demanding, however,and is certainly more interesting….You will then come to one of the notable features of the day , the Crucero de San Toribo. From here you can see,on the plain below, the two towns which still lie ahead”. SR
They are San Justo de la Vega and Astorga.
Following an initial steepish path downwards we come into San Justo de la Vega,” an expanding residential satellite of Astorga with several bars and restaurants” JB.
“ San Justo de la vega is not a beautiful town, but it has beautiful aspects, such as it’s surrounding fields and kitchen gardens, speckled with fluffy white sheep and it’s 17 th century church, of San Justo, a simple but pretty adornment on the town’s highest hill” BB“ From San Justo de la Vega we continue out over the bridge and the Rio Tuerto and turn off right to take a pleasant track that runs along the river valley past the side of a factory crossing the Roma footbridge, Puente del Molderia,upto the main road …into the outer suburbs of Astorga .”JB He neglects the fact that aforesaid factory makes thousands of hojaldres de Astorga- flakey,honey dripping cakes. Those with a sweet tooth won’t be disappointed Before we can enjoy these delights we come across what BB describes as “ a nutty zigzagging bridge ( some pilgrims call it the jolly green giant ).Or,” the Peregrino torture tower over the railroad tracks…designed to keep pedestrians safe and away from the tracks. Then it is up the slope and in to Astorga and our accommodation for the night.Boutique accommodation in Astorga DESCANSO DE WENDY is a boutique accommodation located in the center of the bi-millennial city of Astorga, with easy parking outside. We are a 2-minute walk from the Cathedral of Santa María and also from the Episcopal Palace (Gaudí), from the square itself we can visit the Roman Museum and its excavations, as well as the different and unique Churches, Museums, squares and buildings of interest artistic-historical. WENDY’S REST is made up of only SIX ROOMS or SUITES, two of them on each floor of the building. All with private bathroom or toilet in the room itself, furnished and decorated in an eclectic style with state-of-the-art TV, hairdryer, exterior windows and beds with “Premium” mattresses and pillows, as well as toiletries and extra cotton bed linen. The laundry service is optional Included in the price of the accommodation we will serve you our accredited Maragato Breakfast , consisting of a seasonal fruit starter, followed by a hot dish cooked at the moment and a dessert of delicious pastries and sweets from the region. All rooms of the accommodation have free WI-FI. ( From the hotel’s website ) 4.5 and rated excellent on Trip Advisor.As for Astorga ? That will be in the next and final instalment of this series of Camino previews .
With the best part of a day and a half to explore and enjoy this iconic Pilgrimage city, there are a variety of options to suit all interests.Catedral de Santa Maria de Leon “ Step inside this Gothic gem into a Cezanne – like swirl of saturated colours coming through the stained glass” BB. Let’s hope the sun is shining.
“León’s 13th-century cathedral, with its soaring towers, flying buttresses and breathtaking interior, is the city’s spiritual heart. Whether spotlit by night or bathed in glorious northern sunshine, the cathedral, arguably Spain’s premier Gothic masterpiece, exudes a glorious, almost luminous quality. The show-stopping facade has a radiant rose window, three richly sculpted doorways and two muscular towers. The main entrance is lorded over by a scene of the Last Supper, while an extraordinary gallery of vidrieras (stained-glass windows) awaits inside.” WANDERLOG.COM
Specialty Museum – The Sierra-Pambley Museum is dedicated to the Leonese bourgeois elite of the 19th century and their lifestyle. The museum features original furnishings and fittings, such as patterned wallpaper, luxurious carpets and gilt-edged mirrors. The collection also includes paintings, sculptures, objets d’art and manuscripts.Museo Catedralicio Diocesano de León is a small but very interesting museum inside the Leon Cathedral. It has a great collection of religious art, including paintings, sculptures, and stained glass. The cloisters are also worth exploring, as are the royal tombs in the crypt. You can visit the Cloister and at the same time you can see different works. There is even a little game inside investigation. You can also see the statues that should be on the façade of the cathedral but for one reason or another they are there and not on the façade. The good thing is that it is next to the cathedral and if you buy the joint ticket it will be cheaper. It is a mandatory visit if you pass through Leon. GOOGLE TRANSLATIONFarmacia Merino, Dra. María José Alonso Núñez (Translated by Google) You walk past it without noticing it, and yet this pharmacy is a work of art from 1827. You can go inside to admire this wooden establishment, of course by asking the pharmacists for permission. There is no word to write this work…..Compeed,Ibruprofen anyone?El Escribano (Translated by Google) El Escribano is the most beautiful and interesting store in León. It is entering medieval Spain at the hands of Antonio Suárez Gordón. Parque Del Cid It’s old full of trees, cozy, cool and shadowy in the scorching summer evenings, right in the centre of town, surrounded by nice bars where you can have a quick bite. I’d say go and enjoy it.
Daniel Alonso — Google reviewPanteón Real Attached to the Real Basílica de San Isidoro, the stunning Panteón Real houses royal sarcophagi, which rest with quiet dignity beneath a canopy of some of the finest Romanesque frescos in Spain. Colourful motifs of biblical scenes drench the vaults and arches of this extraordinary hall, held aloft by marble columns with intricately carved capitals. The pantheon also houses a small museum where you can admire the shrine of San Isidoro, a mummified finger(!) of the saint and other treasures.Basílica de San Isidoro Even older than León’s cathedral, the Real Basílica de San Isidoro provides a stunning Romanesque counterpoint to the former’s Gothic strains. Fernando I and Doña Sancha founded the church in 1063 to house the remains of the saint, as well as the remains of themselves and 21 other early Leónese and Castilian monarchs. Sadly, Napoleon’s troops sacked San Isidoro in the early 19th century, but there’s still plenty to catch the eye.Museo de San Isidoro Incredible place in a beautiful city. The staff are so helpful and pleasant to talk to. They obviously take great pride in the place and want to share it’s history with visitors. They offer information in English for visitors to read .
For the evenings’ entertainment and delectation there is only one destination – The Barrio Húmedo is located in the Spanish city of León and is part of its Old Town. The name roughly translates as the ‘Wet District’, so called because of the number of bars and pubs located in the area. The Barrio Húmedo is a circular area in the centre of the city, running from Las Cercas street, up to Calle Ancha and across from La Rua to Caño Badillo street. At its centre sits the lively Plaza de San Martín,
I could not resist the temptation to include two places renowned for their food and drink, just to give a flavour of what to expect.
El Rebote
If you like croquetas (deep-fried croquettes), then you’ll love El Rebote, as it’s famous for them. Instead of regular croqueta flavours such as ham or mushroom, they have innovative varieties such as pizza, beef or even jalapeño chili pepper.
This cute little bar offers a limited number of tapas options, which are all equally tasty. Try the traditional Leonese sopa de ajo (garlic soup). Thick and fragrant, it’s made from crusty bread and roasted garlic.
San Martin del Camino, at the end of the next day’s saunter will come as a complete contrast to Leon with less than 400 inhabitants! “ Leaving Leon….you will cross the bridge over the Bernesga river , and pass a small tree- covered park,where hens and roosters roam. The Camino then continues west. This is perhaps one of the road’s ugliest,most industrial stretches, though the people along it are very nice. If you wish to skip the 7.7 KM of walking on pavement, the bus…with “ Virgen del Camino” noted on its digital sign,stops at the corner where Avenida de la Magdalena opens up after the first traffic roundabout,just after passing the park ( a hardware store, Ferreteria El Crucero, is across the street). You’ll see a small sign on the sidewalk and a large white BUS painted on the asphalt. Buses run every half hour. The bus drops you off on the Camino in La Virgen del Camino”. BB Useful and very detailed information
“La Virgen del Camino is named for the miraculous sighting of the Virgen by a local shepherd. His vision has been translated into sculptures several times by artists…the sculptures are stunning and bear a resemblance to La Piedad by Michelangelo, with the exception that Jesus is facing downwards.
“ When you get to the Basilica de la Virgen del Camino you will cross the busy road and continue on a small access road. In 300 metres you are presented with a choice between two routes . The painting of yellow arrows here is confusing, and there is zero official signage to indicate your options.” WP SR is more forthright, in his opinion it is the result of “ Disgraceful Competition” . The numerous signs have been painted by the owners of local businesses! WP recommends taking THE SCENIC ROUTE “ and it adds <3KM to your journey. It is considerably more pleasant and there are now plenty of services and albergues along the way “ . However, a look at the map shows that this route does not go through San Martin, our destination, but bypasses it by some distance . It would seem we should take the original historical path with the N 120 on the right. DECISIONS,DECISIONS….
JB’ s maps indicate a cafe/ bar in Valverde Casa Camino and BB describes two options further on in Villadongos del Paramo,” just before exiting town,there’s a good bakery and general store Hermanos Garcia to your right that sells provisions , including fresh baked goods,fresh fruits and vegetables,olives,cheeses and cold cuts…”
“ Villadangos del Paramo is known as the site where Queen Urraca of Leon and Castile fought a battles against her husband,Alfonso I of Aragon, in 1111” BB It’s a complicated story but well worth researching . “ Every August the the town people stage a re- creation of the famous battle called La Mantanza )
Not sure if the Covid masks are original!
BB tells us that we’ll “ next cross over the irrigation canal, Canal de Villadongos, followed by a wild wooded park ( you may ) get a glimpse a lot of bird life , including hawks, for nearly 2 kilometres before returning to run parallel with N 120, crossing to the left side of the road”.
SAN MARTIN del CAMINO “ is a quiet farming village …Nothing remains of the original 13 th century pilgrim town or the 17 th century hospice that stood right on the main street, calle real. The church is from 1963, though the bell tower survives from the 1600s” BB
Storks’ nest
Our “ digs” for this evening are in Albergue La Huela
Sharon E5/5a month ago on Google Excellent! Very modern, spacious, organized and clean. Great service, great food. In the summer take advantage of the pool 🙂 This is the place to stay after Leon. Perfect distance. Clean and comfortable rooms. Alejandro was very helpful from the moment a book it. Staff is friendly and will welcome you warmly for sure.
“Thou shield of that faith which in Spain we revere
Thou Scourge of each foeman who dares to draw near
Whom the Son of the God whom the elements tames,
Called Child of the Thunder, Immortal Saint James!”
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
~ Pilgrims’ hymn, translated by George Burrows
Modern day protectors on the Camino – The Guardia Civil – what a cultural difference from my first encounters with them in the 70s.
NOTE THE SHELLORIGINAL GUARDIA CIVIL MOTIF
I thought I should preface today ( I’m writing this on Maundy Thursday ) by reminding us of the four principal sources I have used: CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Sergi Ramos – SR in the text. A WISE PILGRIM GUIDE TO THE CAMINO FRANCES – WP in the text. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO , A PILGRIM’S GUIDE – John Brierley – JB. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO -MOON – Beebe Bahrami – BB in the text .
This would appear to be a relatively straightforward saunter and SR interestingly,gives it most attention. “ …it is a testing one …the towns along the stage are far apart,although all of them,with the exception of Villamoros de Mansilla, have at least a bar , restaurant and grocery store. It is necessary , however, to carry sufficient water,above all for the first section.” WELL NOTHING WE WOULDN’T DO ANYWAY !
“Much of the way between here and Puente de Villarente is adjacent to the road. “WP
Just a little further on is the Archaeological site of Lancia – “ a detour to the right …the partially excavated ruins of the Roman settlement of Lancia “BB
After 6 KM or so “ Villarente shaded area down by the river ( The first building( left) was a medieval pilgrim hospital which operated a donkey ambulance service for sick pilgrims to Leon ). There are several cafes to choose from here.
“ The river here once posted a serious threat to pilgrims when waters ran high and as a result it became home to several pilgrim hospices”WP
“ As you are leaving Puente behind you,keep an eye out for arrows pointing you along a trail to your right hand side ,and up a small hill towards Arcahueja. It is fairly well marked but is along a service road that is often lined with parked trucks and the way might be obscured “ WP
Next up is Arcahueja,” The last chance to take a rest in the relative quiet before we hit the city traffic.150 metres off route,( left) is the welcoming bar La Torre”. JB
It is also an Albergue.As traditional as it gets…Thank goodness
Puente Castro is the last notable place before entering Leon. ( The modern buildings here disguise the fact that this was an influential Jewish district in the XIIth c and site of a former Roman settlement “ JB
We the shall continue through the “ Leon suburbs up the wide Alcarde Miguel Castano ,eventually arriving at Av. Del Europa and then into Plaza de SantaAna…here we can calm frayed nerves “( speak for yourself ) JB. Then on through Puerta Moneda one of the original gateways to the medieval city ( note the vast city walls as you pass) JBPUERTA MONEDA
And the digs for this night,and our rest day ( 2 nights in all ) is rated 9. on Booking.com HOSPEDERIA MONASTICA PAX . It’ ll have to do….
In the old part of town. We shall probably take ourselves off to the BARRIO HUMEDO “A district made to delight the senses, the Barrio Húmedo is home to the essence of Leon. The weight of tradition can be felt in the old shop fronts, in the web of streets whose names are a testimony to the medieval guilds who worked there, and in the infinite number of bars and restaurants that have given the district its name. The local custom of tapas (small snacks served with every drink) here takes on almost religious dimensions. The Barrio Húmedo is a place not to be missed. The history of Leon, a very human city, full of culture and made for walking, is encapsulated in the Calle Ancha, one of the most beautiful streets in the city. A testimony to local hard work and talent, seen in the 19th century buildings that still do business there.” Quoted from leon.es.
The literal translation means “ damp quarter’ – say no more!APROVECHE !
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