Fine weather for the morning and a promise of rain for the afternoon. So after gathering our packed lunch – we both enjoyed these lunches everyday this week – we made for Porlock.
Quiet paths and lanes took us through the previously visited villages of Allerford and Bossington.Nicely situated Swiss style chalet and balcony.I stopped to admire this hedge.Peekaboo with the white sheep in the hay, but look carefully to pick out some shaggy,grey haired seniors resting under the thatched roof.Approaching Porlock a rainbow over the sea – a portent of what was to come ?A useful, easy to follow map.
Porlock, it has to be said, is very much in Somerset and proud of the fact! The village first appeared in print in the 10th Century as Portloca from the Old English words meaning ‘Enclosure by the harbour’ and at the time of the Domesday Book in 1086 it was Portloc. Under the shelter of the infamously steep Porlock Hill, the village enjoys a micro climate that makes it significantly milder and warmer than the mighty Exmoor at its hinterland.The Saxons developed Porlock as both a port and fishery, which inevitably attracted the unwanted attention of the Vikings.
The arrival of the Normans brought the building of Porlock’s superb Parish Church with its dedication to the Celtic Saint Dubricius, a former Bishop of Llandaff and, legend has it, the man who crowned King Arthur.The grade I listed Church of St Dubricius dates from the 13th century, and includes many interesting and varied architectural details from throughout it’s history, including it’s unusual spire! The Church holds regular Sunday services, and special events throughout the year including a flower festival. Rumor has it that in 1703, during a storm the top of St. Dubricius Church steeple was completely destroyed but others say there is no evidence to prove this because they claim its roof line appears flat due to an added light beacon on the building’s surface. The church includes two windows from Norman architecture with remnants dating back before 1120 and 15th Century crosses found within its yard are believed by some historians as proof for when it first opened. St Dubricius was a 6th century Celt, but did not just stick to his home country. He travelled across the land from Herefordshire all of the way down south to Exmoor in order to perform many acts of healing on those who needed it most during this time period. It is said that he became an archbishop and crowned King Arthur with him being officiant at Queen Guinevere’s wedding held later on! In the churchyard you will find a Yew tree said to be over 1000 years old. An ancient law protects yew trees dedicated to St Dubricius.A large and costly Chantry tomb for Lord Harington (d. 1417) and his widow, Elizabeth Courtenay (d. 1472) stands under one of the aisle arches, but was not thought to be its original position.The church is on the Porlock Pilgrim Trail and it was no surprise to find St James in the stained glass window,complete with staff.Porlock’s meandering high streetJust after leaving Porlock in the direction of the Weir, we came across these newborn lambs.Rainbow number two over the marsh Walking along part of the Marsh along the Coastal Path was very tricky in places because of the small boulders brought in by high tides.The harbour and much of the surrounding area is part of the Porlock Manor Estate, which has been linked to the Blathwayt family since 1686 when William Blathwayt, Secretary of State to King William III, married Mary Wynter. Porlock was one of the Somerset manors left to Mary and has since passed down the Wynter-Blathwayt line. The ancient port of Porlock Weir has existed for more than a thousand years, having been documented in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle. Over the centuries it has played a vital part in the life of eastern Exmoor, being one of the few places along the rugged Exmoor coast capable of providing a haven for small craft. Given its isolated position within Exmoor, this sea route was also the easiest way to and from the area. In the 18th and 19th centuries the main exports were flour and corn, bark for tanning, bricks, pit-props for the Welsh coal mines and oysters to Bristol. Imports included limestone and coal from Wales, which were used to make lime in local kilns.We took the Woodland Trail,climbing up above the Marsh for a scenic walk back to Porlock.This is a rugged part of the Somerset coast and quite unspoilt by tourism- a great day’s independent saunter,if a little damp for the last five KM.
After a shower and a rest we were ready to join in our last evening’s entertainment- A Peaky Blinders / Brummagem Evening .
Ramblers and guests put on their best Peaky Blinders gear .“ Ooh, look at you!”Brumbeat selections- you can’t beat’em! Our four days’ Spring break at Holnicote House was thoroughly enjoyable – good company,food and drink, fine weather and great walks .
ensuitepilgrim's Blog 
Leave a comment