It is a metaphor for the Road of Life. Each day the Camino gives us something new: a new experience, a new challenge, a new blister, a new joy, a new sorrow, a new achievement, a new defeat, a new friend. Walking the Camino affords us the time and opportunity to see, understand and accept what we have encountered both on that day and on our entire Road of Life.
The famous „El Bar de Elvis“ in Reliegos, Spain, on the way to Santiago de Compostela
“ It was at Reliegos that the Astorga – Bordeaux Roman road and the French Way crossed. By way of complete contrast,WP informs us of this: Bar Elvis, quite possibly the most famous bar on the whole Camino,is located in the main square. The owner is quite a character…”
If you ever walk the Camino de Santiago, you should not miss a bar! This bar is definitely the strangest bar I’ve seen on the Camino. It reminds me of a movie, but I do not remember which one it was? The graffiti-covered Bar de Elvis in Reliegos comes after a long sweaty hike on the Meseta. I had a great time in this bar, crazy rock music and oldies, good food, fab tapas, the best “boccadillos”, excellent wine and of course a wonderful company. The Elvis Bar, the meeting place for tired pilgrims 🙂
“ From the moment you leave Reliegos the outline of Mansilla May be seen. This is encouraging.” SR Just over 6 KM remain. “ You enter Mansilla de las Mulas through one of the surviving gates of its old wall of adobe and boulders,which dates from the twelfth century.” SR
“ Today, the old town is full of picturesque plazas…pedestrian promenades and riverside paths along the Esla river” BB And if you fancy a dip “ There is a nice place for a swim in the river
Accommodation is in Casa Bella – a whole house to ourselves.
Fine weather for the morning and a promise of rain for the afternoon. So after gathering our packed lunch – we both enjoyed these lunches everyday this week – we made for Porlock.
Porlock, it has to be said, is very much in Somerset and proud of the fact! The village first appeared in print in the 10th Century as Portloca from the Old English words meaning ‘Enclosure by the harbour’ and at the time of the Domesday Book in 1086 it was Portloc. Under the shelter of the infamously steep Porlock Hill, the village enjoys a micro climate that makes it significantly milder and warmer than the mighty Exmoor at its hinterland.The Saxons developed Porlock as both a port and fishery, which inevitably attracted the unwanted attention of the Vikings.
After a shower and a rest we were ready to join in our last evening’s entertainment- A Peaky Blinders / Brummagem Evening .
Wednesday was a “ free” day with a short walk on offer if wanted. Most people planned to visit locally and so we decided on a morning at Dunster Castle and then over to Lynton and Lynmouth. From Somerset to Devon via Porlock Hill.
Dunster Castle: Dramatically sited on top of a tor, a castle has existed here since Norman times
We then walked down to the Water Mill alongside the River Avill.
A very enjoyable and informative morning, followed by a coffee in the village – a bit on the twee side but pretty enough I suppose.
The afternoon was spent in Lynton and Lynmouth after a crawl up the infamous Porlock Hill behind a tractor towing a trailer full of sheep.
The highlight of the afternoon,albeit an expensive one,was the ride on the cliff railway – it has an interesting history. In the 19th century, the high cliffs separating Lynton from Lynmouth were a major obstacle to economic development. The twin villages mainly relied on sea transport because land travel was extremely difficult over Exmoor. Coal, lime, foodstuffs and other essentials arrived at Lynmouth in sailing vessels, but this freight had to be carried by packhorses or in horse drawn carts up the steep hill to Lynton. The cliffs also posed problems for the growing tourist industry. From the mid 1820’s holiday makers began to arrive at Lynmouth on paddle steamers from Bristol, Swansea and other Bristol Channel ports… but a daunting hill faced those who decided to walk up to Lynton. Ponies and donkeys could be hired at 6d a time, but the steep gradients severely tested the unfortunate animals. Other tourists travelled up Lynmouth hill in carriages, but the horses that pulled them had a very short working life.
The idea of a funicular was discussed for several years and eventually work commenced. Late in 1885, a major project was proposed which included the construction of a solid pier, an esplanade and ‘a lift from the said pier or promenade to Lynton’. The pier, to extend 112 yards into the sea, was intended to enable the resort to attract a bigger share of the growing steam-excursion traffic. Many of the paddle steamers had not been calling at Lynmouth where passengers had to be ferried ashore in small boats, instead visiting Ilfracombe where tourists could easily disembark at the deep-water pier. The construction of an esplanade, which survives today, was to start from a point near the Rhenish Tower and provide access to the pier. The proposed ‘lift’ would make it possible to carry up to Lynton the large numbers of people that would be landed from the steamers at the new pier.
Blasting operations soon took place on the cliff. By December The North Devon Journal could report: “The excavations for the purpose of a hydraulic lift between Lynton and Lynmouth is steadily progressing. Many thousands of tons of material have been removed from the hillside”. The Cliff Railway was finally opened on Easter Monday (the 7th April) in 1890. A large crowd gathered at the Lynton station to see Mrs Jeune, Lady of the Manor of Lynton, perform the official ceremony. George Newnes conducted her to a raised dias under the wall of the reservoir from which the cistern of the car would be filled. After receiving a bouquet of flowers from Bob Jones’ little daughter, Mrs Jeune pulled a lever releasing the first car which glided forward on its first journey, while the second car simultaneously started on the upward track.
We then had a look round Lynton.
The weather was closing in as descended to Lynmouth. There had been severe flooding as described here :-
ON FRIDAY 15 AUGUST 1952, THE TINY VILLAGE OF LYNMOUTH SUFFERED WHAT COULD BE DESCRIBED AS THE WORST RIVER FLOOD IN ENGLISH HISTORY.
On the day itself, just over 9 inches (230mm) of rain fell, 6 inches (150mm) of which fell in a few short hours in the afternoon/early evening. Add in the 6 inches (150mm) of rain that had already fallen in the first two weeks of August, then it is no surprise that the top of Exmoor was unable to absorb the rainfall and was totally overwhelmed.
The town has recovered and there are some remaining cottages of note.
Hontanas is a town that has numerous fountains and hence the etymology of its name, “fountains”. In fact, the name of this small town comes from fountain (fontana) and possibly alludes to the small springs that were in the place and that could have become an authentic oasis on the route, after several kilometers of harsh Castilian plateau. The town had a hospital for pilgrims called San Juan, although it was popularly known as Mesón de los Franceses. It was located in a building on the main street that currently houses one of Hontanas’ shelters.
The parish church of Hontanas presided over by a tall and strong tower, is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception. It was originally built in the Gothic style, in the 14th century, although it was neoclassically reformed over time. It shelters a baroque altarpiece, the work of the mountaineer Fernando de la Peña. Inside there is a magnificent copper processional cross with enamels and figures typical of the 13th century. Its style suggests that it is made in Spain, in the late Romanesque style.
A very few KM or so,out of Hontanas and after a gentle descent, the Convento de San Anton is reached.
The ruins of the monastery and pilgrim hospital of San Antón is a delightful space that seems to embrace the camino, its archway spanning the road itself. Once a sprawling complex there is little that remains.
The albergue here has never seen better days, and the efforts of a dedicated team of volunteer hospitaleros keep the place as traditional as can be expected.
The niches in the archway, previously used by monks to deliver food to late arriving pilgrims, are now a popular spot to leave written messages.WP
“ As we leave these splendid ruins behind, the Convento de Santa Clara opens up to our left (1/2 Mile ) where you can buy one of the wooden crosses made by the nuns. Castrojeriz now opens to view in front of us. The prominent castle ( ruins ) stands sentinel over the town and surrounding countryside. Note: the town straddles a long,winding road.JB
The layout of the Castrojeriz road-path is deceptively long and, unlike some of the smaller examples, it has been extended to encompass several parallel streets. Its three churches are worth a visit, and a hike to the castle ruins offers a view of the surrounding land only paralleled by the climb out of town. WP
Most pilgrim-related services can be found along Calle Oriente , but the largest pharmacy and groceries are closer to the main road.
Also along the East is the Hospital del Alma ; part art gallery and part meditation space and exactly where you want to go if you’re looking for a bit of peace and quiet.
In the main square there is a small pilgrims shop, one of the last of its kind. The owner is quite the character and has managed to keep up with the times, trading the usual small-town items for the kind of high-tech gear modern-day pilgrims are looking for.
On the way out of town is Bar Lagar, named for the well-preserved grape press in the center. Check it out for a glimpse of how things were once made.WP
Let’s hope it’s open we pass by.
A fellow pilgrim asked “Are you nervous about the meseta?” “The what?” I naively responded, thinking it was some sort of tribe or gathering. After having it briefly explained to me I replied, “Why would I be nervous?”. And that’s exactly how people should respond. But it is very different from other stages of the Camino and an important part of the way. There are some amazing villages, beautiful ruins and other sights to see, the people are friendly, it’s very affordable day to day and the Spanish culture in this area is fantastic. It is also considered a time of inner reflection for many. I think pilgrims who skip this entire section of the Camino are really missing out on a unique experience. A quotation from a recent post.
LEAVING CASTROJERIZ – “ One of the most beautiful vistas of the Meseta is 3.5 KM after leaving Castrojeriz. A steep climb leads up the slope of the high ridge, Alto de Mostelares . You will be rewarded for the hard effort to get here with limitless views of the yellow and green wheat fields of the Meseta looking like a patchwork quilt.” BB The Alto de Mostelares is the highest of the peaks you will encounter along the meseta, but it is not as difficult as it appears from Castrojeriz.WP
The Ermita de San Nicolás , like the ruins of San Antón before Castrojeriz , has a long history of caring for pilgrims. Both are on their own far from cities and as a result don’t necessarily get the amount of traffic they deserve. Perhaps that’s for the best, as pilgrims often claim they’re the most memorable lodges along the way.WP
“ Between the village of Itero and and the point of entry to Boadilla you will see just one tree. However,before finishing the stage you come at least to a climb and a little pine wood . Today you have had your first taste of Tierra de Campos” SR “Tierra de Campos is a natural region located in the autonomous community of Castilla y León, which spans the provinces of Palencia, Valladolid, Zamora and León. The French Waypasses through this area, allowing you to enjoy an excellent natural environment during the journey. The gently sloping plains stand out in this area, generally treeless and with a clear steppe appearance. It is worth stopping to discover its charms.” From Viajes de Camino de Santiago.
On approaching Boadilla del Camino you will notice “ the fields…are dotted with Palomares – dovecotes – find your way towards one and explore the interior which holds thousands of niches”WP
“ The original population of over 2000 that once served several pilgrim hospitals here continues to decline – a characteristic of many rural communities along the way . But the reawakening of the Camino is beginning to turn the tide “ JB
Hotel Rural “EN EL CAMINO” is our base for tonight.
7 Km does not present a challenge and that is no bad thing; it does provide opportunities, however – some respite after a hectic three days, or a chance to revisit Castrojeriz , maybe take a walk to ESCLUSA,a peaceful vantage point on the Castilla Channel with its 200 year old engineering works and four locks.
“I am curious – what is the rush to get through the meseta? Perhaps another way to approach it is to choose some of the ‘recommended places on the meseta and plan your walk to reach those each day. For example…
“I prefer Hontanas over Hornillos, and Hospital San Nicholas over Castrojeriz. Albergue En el Camino in Boadilla is a great stop, for the garden and the warm hospitality,” QUOTE FROM “ Six Reasons Not to Skip the Camino” .
“ The first five kilometres of this stage are easily the most beautiful in terms of landscape…..you soon come to a man made feature which will make the rest of your walk to Fromista pleasant and interesting: The Canal de Castilla” . From SR.
“The town of Fromista is one of the most attractive sights to be found along the Way ….“SR
“ The importance of Fromista to the Camino is evident in the fact that there were several pilgrim hospitals here in medieval times…Fromista is derived from the Latin word for cereal frumentum this area having provided copious supplies of wheat to the burgeoning Roman Empire.JB
Fromista, population circa 800, comes at the end of the sixth stage in Picaud’s original pilgrims’s guide. It is believed the town was first inhabited by the Celts, then Romans, to be completely destroyed by the Moors during the 8th century.
It was repopulated during the 10th century; aided in part by Donna Mayor, wife of Sancho III, who founded a Benedictine monastery.
Today the only surviving part of the monastery is the Church of San Martin. A statue of San Telmo, (St Elmo), the patron saint of sailors, presides over the village square; he was born here in 1190 and his remain are interred in the cathedral in Tuy, Pontevedra, on the Camino Portugues.
The Romanesque Church of San Martin is an imposing building dominating the center of the plaza where it is located.
As a complete but appetising contrast you could visit Quesos San Martín Frómista,famed for locally made cheese.
For a more substantial lunch,Bar Vulcan’s tapas are highly recommended.
Accomodation for the evening is in HOTEL RURAL San Pedro.
And for dinner,El Chiringuito Del Camino has these hearty dishes.
And every day you wonder why you are doing this, and every day you give thanks that you can.”
Yes, the gratitude I feel at being able to do this in such a beautiful place, is everything.
Leaving Sahagun,“ Four kilometres after leaving Sahagún, you have a choice: Stay on the Medieval route known as the Camino Real,or detour to the Via Romana
– also known as the Calzada Romana …which follows the old Roman road…adding a little over 1 kilometre to the whole trek . You won’t see much of the Roman road;it is largely under dirt and gravel. BB
Apparently the advantage of this detour is to take you away from the highway ( A-231) that the Camino Real parallels in places. JB says “ stay on this ( left) side of the bridge and continue along the gravel Senda alongside a quiet country road with shade,parallel to the autopista. Either way we will be moving on through the cereal and grain-covered plateaux of Leon.
It will be advisable to stock up on water and snacks as there is a distance of some 12 KM with little in the way of support services.
Another reason for staying on the Real “ is to see the 17 th century hermitage ,Ermita de Nuestra Senora de Perales…Both a rest area and sacred site for the people of Bercianos.” BB
The next Puebla of any consequence is Bercianos del Real Camino.
We shall pick up the route “on the Western edge of the village passing wetland reserve Laguna Olmo and then onwards under the autopista to continue on to El Burgo Raneros.” J.B
“ After a walk of almost two hours on the plain,you come to the pleasantly surprising town of El Burgo Ranero…(it) might at first glance look like a typical small town where you can rest and remove your boots…However, you need only to take a short walk and have a careful look around to see that this is a town that offers a great deal”. SR
“ Some say El Burgo Ranero gets its name from el burg granero,a grain or granary town,and others from el burgo ranero, a place abundant with frogs ( ranas), a part of the town legacy thanks to the nearby pond. Take your pick; they’ve got plenty of both” BB
“ El Burgo Ranero owes its existence to both wheat and wool. “ WP “ the wheat and wool business that once sustained it has been displaced by mechanisation “ WP
“ The village probably came in to bringing the early 12 th century , but is set on a much more ancient pathway where sheep had been moved from pasture to pasture over millenia. ( Shepherding and transhumance – a word we get from Spanish,the practice of moving sheep from summer to winter pastures and back again – have been practised here ever since farmers and herders inhabited Iberia” BB
It’s a short walk to Terradillos.” After the relative luxury of Carrion we know experience rural simplicity,thankfully bypassed by the N-120. Formerly a stronghold of the Knights Templar nothing,on a physical level remains of this noble Order but it’s spirit lives on in the place name..” JB
“ The true gold is the hospitality,along with the daily meditations written on chalkboard in the garden. A recent one “ Sometimes you have to lose yourself to find yourself”. The village has a general store and a bar” .BB
Not too further on is “ a seemingly sleepy little village,Moratinos.” BB
PROVINCIA DE LEON,“part of the autonomous region of Castille y Leon and offering the most varied terrain on the Camino. We start off with a continuation of the now familiar Tierra de Campos with its flat and well irrigated agricultural land.” JB
Sixty-seven kilometres to the south-east of Leon we find Sahagún, a historic city that stretches on top of a smooth mound, whose nerve centre is the main square, or Plaza Mayor, which still has its original porches.
In the streets we can see some houses with brick and wooden structures, and some others that were built with clay and straw. The local artistic heritage, the legacy of a booming past, includes remarkable buildings such as the monastery of San Benito el Real, from which only a Neoclassical arch still stands; the Mudejar churches of San Tirso and San Lorenzo, from the 12th and 13th centuries, respectively; the convent of the Benedictines, presently the site of the Sahagún Museum; and the sanctuary of Peregrina, in the outskirts as described above.