It’s a mile or so from the apartment to get to the beach and plenty to remark at on the way.
Cristo de la Epidemia and a little further on a tiny chapel of less grand proportions The first time the chapel has been open.
After passing Plaza de la Merced, we came to the Roman theatre
Nearby, below ground ,were the Roman remains of a salting fish workshop.Where you put your sunglasses when taking a photo- taken by accident I hasten to add !Poem ‘City of Paradise’, by Vicente Aleixandre, the first few lines translated are :”To my city of Malaga My eyes always see you, city of my marine days. Hanging from the imposing mount, hardly stopped in your vertical fall to the blue waves, You seem to reign under the sky, over the waters, intermediate in the air, as if a happy handI would have held you, a moment of glory…”
We were then stopped in our tracks as we came across this enormous tree trunk.
It is railed off for purposes of protection .We then walked by a more recent Ampitheatre Matt decided to test out the acoustics.
We continued along the Paseo del Parque,a delightful stroll.
A refreshing water feature and then Brid spotted a tiny mosaic of San Fiacre.
Saint Fiacre, was born in Ireland, in the early years of the 7th century, and is considered the patron saint of gardeners, which is why we can find this mosaic in his memory in the Gardens of the Malaga Park, in the area that overlooks the beautiful Paseo de the priests and in front of the port gates. The mosaic is attached to natural stones and surrounded by several of the oldest and most exotic species in the Park. No wonder Brid knew all about him.
We stopped for coffee at the Chiringuito Mami Beach
Overhead in the palm trees the constant chattering of Parakeets could not be mistaken for anything else and then for our entertainment as it were, a number of them joined some pigeons in an impromptu bird Bath, making use of a puddle created by the overnight rain.Making a splash.Looking down the Malagueta and our finishing point is an edifice at the far end.After passing a number of forgettable high rise developments we noticed this nicely festooned wall as buildings took on a more original character. There was then a stretch of rocks between the beaches but we were happy to continue along the promenade.We were hoping for a lunch stop by now and we were pleased to find Chiringuito Merlo la Revuelo.I had to try the sardines which were being bbqued on the beach nearby . I sampled an Espeto- The classic espeto or sardine skewer is very simple and comes from a technique invented in the late nineteenth century in the neighborhood of El Palo in Malaga, a tradition that has hardly changed ever since. It is made just with a few sardines that are grilled on a cane skewer over the heat of an open wood fire. Just like that.
Walking back through Pedragalejo I noticed this traditional fishing boat which looked as if it had been recently renovated
Views of Malaga in the distanceSome way to go yet.An abundance of Orange flowersYou can see the giant cranes over the port of Malaga and just make out some kite surfers.I liked the position of this building constructed by the side of a river running under the road into the sea.
Walking in the breezy sunshine is a thirst making process and so we climbed the steps up to a bar – La Odisea – ( need I translate ? ) The house glass gives a clue.
This bar was once a traditional Malaguenan house and is 220 years old.The plaque was put in place in 1970.The interior is quaintly simpleThe adjacent long room has a more obvious use.Penny decided to pep up her pineapple juice with a brandy from the barrel – for its restorative properties you understand.Brid and Matt ( just out of picture ) enjoying their Tinto Verano . So after a walk up to the local Carrefour it was back to base, after a good day’s stroll.
The prospect from the apartment this morning.Penny emerging complete with sun visor.
Walking up towards the start of the climb we passed an eye stopping house decorated by someone with a lot of bottle.
It was already warmer than forecast as we moved towards the Olletas district and signs of Spring.
A view of Malaga from ( nearly )the top. Penny could make out a plane landing with the help of her Bins.Oxalis emerging.
A lot of this area is walled off and behind which is the Diocesan Seminary
Unfortunately we were not able to get this close but as we clambered upwards we could hear the strains of a band practice from within the compound.Manuel Gonzalez Garcia González Wikipedia gives a lengthy and impressive account hi ministry,including details of his appointments,including the Bishopric of Malaga and his founding of the Seminary in 1919.Originally the northern area of the mount was covered by an oak grove (of which there are still remains in the upper part) while the rest was occupied by Mediterranean scrub . Its slopes were used for cultivation, mainly vines and olive groves , but after being abandoned, in times of rain the neighboring neighborhoods became quagmire, which is why during the 1940s the mountain was repopulated with Aleppo pines ( Pinus halepensis ) by the town halltogether with other neighboring mountains. There are still some holm oaks in the upper part of the northwest face. WIKIPEDIAWindswept Aleppo Pines on the lower slopesFinger post pointing towards where we began the descent.Vibrant shrub and more colourful flowers.
The final part of the descent is along a paved pathway.
And within minutes we were on terra firma heading towards the New port.Penny,Brid and Matt in front of the pedestrian tunnel under the castle A water feature.
Jardines de la Puerta Oscura – this is a lovely area – thoughtful conservation and radical modern design.
Pleasingly tranquil,most of the Malaguenos were walking along the harbour front The Centre Pompidou Time for coffee,water and olivesWith excellent viewsThe ferry to Melilla Morocco Mandatory yacht complete with helipad – Flag displayed Georgetown
We then walked towards the lighthouse
A plan of the Muellena. We walked back along the “ Palm grove of Surprises” with plenty of buskers for musical accompaniment The aforementioned Pine treesPassing by the side of the Cathedral Orange trees to admire for those queuing to enter the Cathedral – we hope to visit later in the weekBack home after our seven mile saunter it was time for respite Matt catching the rays . What a great Sunday stroll.
CAUTION – When leaving Carrión de los Condes it is extremely important to stock up on water. 17km separate it from Calzadilla de la Cueza, with little protection from the sun or wind. In recent years, a roadside kiosk ( 10.1 KM has sprung up at the halfway point, but there are no guarantees that it will be open. WP.
“Life’s a road full of ups and downs, but it’s the journey that makes the difference.” Every step we take, every decision we make, every challenge we face, all shapes us and makes us who we are. Life is an adventure and it takes courage to embark on it and keep going even when it gets tough. Life is precious and deserves to be lived with passion and determination. “
by Hape Kerkeling in “I’ll be gone”. Are you dreaming of the next Camino?
Can you recall the full quotation at the bottom of the quilt?
On the Camino as it passes through Carrión are shops,pharmacies, a Dia supermarket and a reputedly excellent outdoor store if you need to buy or replace anything. Cafe bar Espana on the main road opens for breakfast from 07.00. ( From a recently discovered online guide – “CaminoGuide.net”)
If the weather promises to be warm it might be advisable to get an early start as JB States : “ We pass through a flat..landscape with little or no shade. 70% is on gravel paths, most of which overlay the old paved Roman road,Via Aquitana that connected with Astorga. Anticipate no facilities between Carrión and Calzadilla (17.2 KM )….ensure your water flasks are full and have breakfast before you leave or bring something to eat with you.”
After a KM or so we are advised to ignore the alternative route,Antiguo Camino Frances along the N-120. We should head s/o along a quiet country road,passing the ruins of the once illustrious Franciscan Abbey, Abadia Santa Maria de Benvivere, known for its “good living” bene Vivere. JB
Still intact after 2000 years – save for a new gravel covering.Apparently 100 000 tons of rock were needed just for the substrata to raise the surface above the winter flood levels,all transported from elsewhere.
We come next to Fuente del Hospitalejo “ the Fuente no longer offers hospitality but this is provided shortly afterwards at Area des Descanso- rest area.
Operates Summer time only .
MIRAGES – “ the straight stretch of 17 Km running from Carrión de Los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza sometimes holds a surprise in store. Because of the heat and the refraction of light rays,objects ahead may seem to be floating on a liquid surface. This is an optical phenomenon which lasts only a few seconds.” SR
It’ll be interesting to swap our mirages at the end of the day!
Calzadilla de la Cueza BB Recommends refuelling at the village bar – I don’t think we’ll need telling – it’s behind the albergue. A very popular bar and restaurant
A population of 60 souls,apparently.
On leaving Calzadilla we have again two choices for the last steps to Ledigos. Alongside the N.120 or turning left for a quiet woodland path. Note, there are not many waymarks, but JB gives a good description, P.160. After an ascent we descend into Ledigos our base and Albergue la Morena. “ A woman nicknamed La Morena ( the brunette) founded this private albergue; today her granddaughter and family carry on her work ethic…exceptional for its hospitality. They serve a great home cooked menu del Peregrino in the restaurant and bar.” BB
This Albergue is highly recommended. Other than the church, we should find some restful distraction here.The church contains images of St James…if open. DISTRACTIONS….tu muy buena Salud!
JUST A REMINDER ABOUT THE USEFUL REFERENCES IN THE BLOGWP – A Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pie SR – Sergi Ramis – Camino de Santiago ,The Ancient Way of Saint James…. BB – Moon – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO by Beebe Bahrami. JB – A PILGRIM’s GUIDE TO THE Camino de Santiago – John Brierley.
“To walk the Camino do I have to be: Catholic, Christian, holy, a believer in God?”
Before previewing this stage I should like to insert this message from JOHNNIE Walker, a friend of mine and Camino guide to thousands. As we are just beginning a new year I thought it was a really “ fresh” view.
“I’m often asked these and similar questions. Here is my answer:
The Camino is church
The Camino is the church where you just walk right in. Everyone is welcome, no questions asked.
The Camino is the church where it doesn’t matter whether you have faith, whether you are searching for answers or simply want to enjoy the experience.
The Camino is the church where apart from walking to Santiago, respecting the way, nothing else is compulsory.
The Camino is the church where everyone is equal. There are no bosses.
The Camino is the church where you can pray, think or meditate when you want. Or not!
The Camino is the church where every meal is a communion which includes everyone around the table.
The Camino is the church where the arrows will guide you, not tell you what to do.
The Camino is the church where to lighten the load you can forgive your own sins and those who have sinned against you.
The Camino is the church where the choir is the dawn chorus of birds in the trees and sheep bleating in the meadow.
The Camino is the church filled with people just like you where you can make life long friends.
The Camino is the church where the only peals are peals of laughter from pilgrims.”
Johnnie Walker
So, on to the main intersection in Fromista and take a gravel path.
THE ROAD
Leaving Frómista is accomplished by retracing a few steps to the main intersection, do not blindly make your way through town and if you plan to leave before the sun rises do yourself the favor of scouting for arrows in advance. The trail here follows a gravel path punctuated by frequent “twin hitos” that are placed to discourage off-road vehicles from taking over the path. WP
JB recommends an alternative and quieter route from Poblacion ( nice bar ) via Villovieco following a tree lined riverside path “offering both shade and silence“. According to BB “ The river path is more appealing…where you’ll see stands of Poplar trees and rich bird life,including European robins,,canary-like serine’s,green woodpeckers,owls,hawks and falcons”.
The next village is Villarmentero de Campos which is connected to the river by a few hundred metre long country road .“We need to look for the distinctive white teepees in a field that identify the village” BB which are part of the accommodation offered by Albergue Almanacer.Different !
“Carrión de los Condes has a rich and prosperous, to say nothing of colorful, history. Located at the intersection of the Pilgrimage road and the río Carrión it attracted merchants and a sizable population. Charlemagne is reported to have used the fields along the river as an encampment on his quest to control the pilgrimage route. Over a dozen pilgrim hospices once called Carrión home, and to this day you will find that many of the albergues are under the care of one religious order or another, the nuns of Santa María are known to sing to pilgrims.” WP
We continue on the riverside path towards Villalcazar de Sirga. It is “ well known for its hospitality having welcomed pilgrims since the XIIth century when it became a commandery of the Knights Templar. There is a popular Cafe- Bar opposite the church” JB
“The magnificent Templar church Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca XIIIthC housing the tombs of nobles and royalty and now declared a national monument” JB King Alfonso X claimed that the White Virgin here had cured pilgrims, she is still there if you are in need of a miracle. WP
HISTORY
Carrión de los Condes has a rich and prosperous, to say nothing of colorful, history. Located at the intersection of the Pilgrimage road and the río Carrión it attracted merchants and a sizable population. Charlemagne is reported to have used the fields along the river as an encampment on his quest to control the pilgrimage route. Over a dozen pilgrim hospices once called Carrión home, and to this day you will find that many of the albergues are under the care of one religious order or another, the nuns of Santa María are known to sing to pilgrims. WP
At the height of its influence it had a population of 10 000 now reduced to 2200 ( and declining ). “ This interesting town retains a medieval atmosphere within its meandering side streets and was home to no less than 14 pilgrim hospitals” JB . It has a bloody past. “ It was the capital of much of the Tierra de campos area ruled by the Leonese Beni-Gomez family,the Counts of Carrion,several of whom met their deaths at the hands of the equally pugnacious El CID,after they reputedly,and very unwisely, mistreated his daughters. Mistreatment here was endemic further attested by the frieze in Iglesia de Santa Maria del Camino which depicts the frightful annual ” tribute” of 100 maidens demanded by the conquering Moors. A small example is shown below.There is more information in JB about more contemporary intrigues and disputes – wait till you see Plaque in the main square bearing the name of Generalissimo Franco a name generally erased because of its Fascist pastJBWho said the Meseta was boring?
Accomodation is at Hostal La Corte. “My husband and I stayed here on the 4th May while doing the Camino De Santiago The hotel was very well situated for the Camino. We were in the courtyard, which was lovely. The food at the restaurant was really good. We had the set menu of the day (vegetarian) for dinner. Breakfast was good. We had a nice stay.” INDEPENDENT REVIEW
The food looks good,too.“This place is unique and it is the best restaurant in this town. Even if you don’t spend the night in the hostel, you have to visit the restaurant. As far as I’m concerned, this is the best restaurant on the Camino from Saint Jean Pied de Port, and the staff is very friendly and professional. Many thanks for service!” ANOTHER REVIEW.
ensuitepilgrim's Blog 