Archive | September, 2022

FAREWELL – adeus temos lembranças felizes

29 Sep

Last full day in ALVOR and here are some of the things that we’ll miss.

SUNSETS
Walking through the Three Brothers Beach.
Walking along the beachfront.

Coffee at the beach bar.

Always plenty of space.

The Apartment which was full marks!

Had it to ourselves most of the time in the afternoons.
The morning view of the sea in the distance at breakfast time.
The wine…
And the White Port.
Last night’s dinner venue.
The Fisherman’s Rest.
And Pastal del Nata of course.
Amusing sculpture at Faro Airport

The bad news is that we’re coming home to this…

GOOD VIBES IN LAGOS

28 Sep
After a breakfast bun you have to go walking and so we made for Lagos.
Local bus down to ALVOR and then a wait for a connecting service to Lagos. Fortunately we had a cab share with two other couples,one from Ireland and the the other from Scotland. “ An Englishman,an Irishman and a Scotsman get into a taxi….” They were good company for the 25 minute drive.
Found a square for coffee and a browse through the Baedeker. The centre is quite compact and very pedestrianised.
Livelier than sleepy ALVOR but in a good way – there were even some young people!
Some great music too.

There was plenty to enjoy by way of alleyways and tiles.

Blue is the GoTo tile colour.
The Igreja de San Antonio is a National Monument believed to be the birth site of St Anthony of Lisbon.
Not far away the Igreja de Santa Maria could be seen.
It had an interesting Baptismal Font that reminded me of a Samovar.
An imposing doorway in the Praca D Henrique.

It was the Romans who built the first town walls around Lagos and these were reinforced during the Arab and later Christian occupations of the town. The substantial city walls still form a protective ring around the old historic centre of Lagos date from 16th century, a time when raids by Barbary pirates were all too common and the threat from Spain turned out to be all too real.

A famous son of Lagos
This gateway Porta de São Gonçalo, an arched entrance into the old town .

The city is most visited for its beaches and nightlife which can be very boisterous in peak season – the beaches looked very inviting.

Plenty of opportunities for taking to the sea in a variety of ways.

He was a 14 th century saint born in Lagos.

Another fortification right on the front and guarding the entrance to the city.

If I had to take to the waters I think this would be my preferred mode of sea faring – I loved the busy waterways.

The pedestrian bridge over which you can walk to more beaches,when it’s not allowing a boat through.

We visited the Mercado which is on three levels.

The headless fishmonger.

I bought this grater on the first floor – a handcrafted “ fair trade” product

Then it was back through the streets to the bus station for a comfortable ride back to Alvor by coach for all of €4.5.

A good day out was enjoyed in Lagos.

A Farmers’ Market and a Biodiversity Walk

27 Sep

These two enjoyable experiences were in ALVOR and a short riverside walk out.

Portugal is famous for its tiles – these are public benches.

The market consisted of small stalls with varying amounts and types of produce – mainly smallholdings I would guess. A homely feel to them.

String ‘em up and hang ‘em high.
Don’t be put off by their appearance, I bought some and they were delicious both on the BBQ and in a salad. I must get some seeds!

Leaving this part of the waterfront we made our way through a small reconstruction of a shelter, along the Ria to the base of a small cliff.

There was some clambering to be done in places but well worth the effort for the views. Along the route were eight notice boards displaying photos and information about the flora and fauna, some of which are unique to this area.
Fortunately the tide was out revealing mud/ sandbanks where bird and people were looking for shell fish.
Being Autumn there was not vey much by way of greenery – the optimum time to walk here would be in Springtime, from February to May – an abundance of butterflies apparently, plus flowers and even small reptiles.
These proved to be the exception.
However,reading the information boards was informative and the solitude welcome,plus the views.
An unexpected sight was this small dam which marks the end of the walk.
Old Saltpans.

We met an English couple who have a timeshare in ALVOR and they told us that once they did the walk on a Bank Holiday and were startled by gunfire – apparently on those days random hunting is allowed – fortunately they were able to attract the gun holders and got through unscathed.

Another varied and enjoyable morning.

PORTIMAO – A MUSEUM ABOUT SARDINES?

25 Sep

Saturday and after waiting in vain for the number 13 bus – unluckily for us – no buses on Saturdays nor Sundays, we called a taxi and within three minutes we were on Portimao’s riverside.

This is a really attractive walkway,replacing much of the long gone sardine canning infrastructure.

Following the signs for the Turismo, housed in a renovated Moorish building,further frustration as it was closed, yes you guessed it,at weekends when you would think they would be the days most likely to be busy with visitors. No buses,no Turismo,and later to discover no shops open after 1pm – I need to get my head round this Algarvian logic.

At this point the decision was coffee time in the park with a refreshing view of the fountain.
A look at Google Maps showed that we were not faraway from the Portimao Museum – hopefully it would not be closed for the weekend.

Walking alongside the River Arrade .

We stopped to examine this conveyor belt,just outside the museum.

All was to be revealed once inside the Museum…which was open and for this weekend,free admission!

Notice the Storks’ nest on top of the chimney. https://museudeportimao.pt/museu/noticias

It is housed in a renovated canning factory the Portimão Museum, invites you to discover the origins and evolution of its community, territory and the most striking aspects of its industrial and maritime history. In addition to the permanent exhibition “Portimão, Territorio e Identidade”, the museum presents a diversified cultural program in the temporary exhibition rooms and auditorium. More of that later.

If someone told you that you would be both well informed and fascinated by the sardine canning process,you might have been forgiven for a scornful riposte – well it was as much about the working lives of the mainly women here as it was about tins. The first thing to strike you was the amazing layout of the exhibits.

There was also an old “ newsreel” type of video running with English subtitles in a small auditorium – fascinating pictures of the women in what at first appeared to be nun-like habits hard at work. Picutes of their infants in the newly created crèche (1951), and of separate canteens for men and women. The other surprising elements were the various machines and processes the humble sardine went through before it got into the can – the lithography and decoration of which was very impressive.

The actual workplace was well reproduced,too.

There was also a section devoted to the 19 th century King Carlos and his seagoing adventures.

More than a passing resemblance to Oliver Hardy.

The temporary exhibition was about the relationship between food and art – it certainly gave us an appetite for lunch! Below are some of the images.

Anchovies as well as Sardines.

The canning factories had been heavily subsidised during Salazar’s dictatorship. When he died the subsidies mostly dried up,this,plus dwindling supplies of fish and competition from North Africa saw the canning industry die for the most part.

There followed a walkabout around a largely deserted town. Portimao as you might have gathered is not a “ tourist” town and its beaches are 3 Km away,including the famous Praia de Rocha and opposite in Ferrugudo,where we once camped in the mid seventies. But worth a day for the feel of a working Portuguese town.

Tiles are a feature of many Portuguese buildings.
In an impressive square.
And Stork nests.

There are three bridges over the river.

This being the most recent.

There are various sculptures alongside the river.

Be grateful that I didn’t show you the backside!
And the restored bandstand .

Portimao was a worthwhile excursion. I wonder if we’ll have sardines for dinner?

“Sometimes, the most productive thing that you can do is to step outside and do nothing… relax and enjoy nature.”

23 Sep

Take a holiday so long, you forget all of your passwords!

Alvor was founded in 436 B.C. by the Carthaginian General Aníbal Barca as a commercial port, which he named Portus Hannibalis. The settlement grew around the sea, near the place called Vila Velha, where a Celtic castro dominated the river mouth during the Iron Age.

The history of Alvor is long, possibly dating back as far as the 4th century BC. During the Roman occupation of Iberia it was a prosperous port and later became the Moorish town of Al-bur. However, the village’s greatest claim to fame is as the place where King João II died in 1495. In more recent years still, it cemented its place in the history books as the venue for the negotiations which brought about the independence of the former Portuguese territory of Angola.

YOU CAN CERTAIN DO THAT IN ALVOR IN SEPTEMBER

Five days in to this little holiday and I have lost track of time. How? Why? It’s only when you come away from your regular routines and haunts that you realise the rut you’re in. I’ve not missed the morning paper, the garden or the allotment,nor the never ending televised sporting events I am usually guilty of having on,even if only half watching. I have not missed walking because I have done plenty of that since being here.I have not missed the tedium of “royal” events either.

There have been some interesting meanderings around ALVOR – not a place for historic settings as the “ castle” exemplifies – but attractive niches and corners.
The castle grounds are now a childrens’ play area.

The Mercardo was very quiet,too.

In the mornings, nothing much opened before 10 am – not a single punter down this popular alleyway.

It will be different tonight .

A walk back down towards the River ALVOR Estuary

Brummies will brag about their “ Floozie in the Jacuzzi”; here in Alvor they have their” Mermaid on the Esplanade”

A couple of other artistic eye catchers.
And from the other side..

It was time to take the Boardwalk trail.

A traditionally painted fishing boat.

It’s a wide network of boardwalks that connects Alvor Beach with the river banks. The total distance of the boardwalks is about 6 km. Following the boardwalk you can appreciate two different sides of Alvor; its wide sandy beach and the freshwater marshes that are home to dozens of species of birds.

Off we stroll with a pleasant breeze for accompaniment.

On either side you can see the estuary, the dunes,marshes and all manner of boats.

Based a mile and a half or so up from ALVOR Town and not wanting the hassle of a hire car – bus trips €0.70 and taxis very reasonable – mastering the bus timetables are important. You can obtain a prepaid card to show on the bus – the amount is dependent on how often you anticipate using a bus. Tomorrow we envisage using it to get to Portimao for the day.

The VAI E VEM bus service .

Every half an hour.

I shall finish this Blog with some photos of the local flora,many of which are found around the pool and grounds of the apartment.

A heavily pruned Fig tree.
Providing ambience and adding a feeling of well being.
I’m off – might even have a swim – but certainly a lie down.

A vacation is what you take when you can no longer take what you’ve been taking.