19th JUNE. To Santo Domingo de la Calzada

30 Jun
18.3 KM

An early start as sections of this stage have little in the way of shade

Walking towards Azofra
Taken by Tom.
Enjoyed by Tom – welcome break on Azofra’s Main Street. Just over 200 inhabitants but Bar Sevilla was welcoming to Pelegrinos.
Another sign of delapidation on an otherwise well kept calle.
A more cheerful sight outside a work yard.

There are ten kilometres to walk before the next chance of refreshments in Ciruena – plenty of water needed.

The scenery was as distracting as ever – fields of grain,with mountain ranges in the background
At Alesanco this “ post” for want of a more concise description stood on the edge of the fields – a whipping post perhaps? Only guessing.
Speaking of water this is an irrigation “canal” for the vineyards
Downhill sections welcome in this heat.
A refreshing cascade adjacent to the Autovia.
On the approach to Ciruena, another walk through opportunity.

Ciruena is a village of two halves. As we approached, we walk past a golf course which felt incongruous given the size of the place,but beyond it was a kind of “ new town” developing.

But there is still a welcome for Pelegrinos as sited on this nearby roundabout.
Less than three miles to go…
It’s a long road that has no Estrella Galicia🍺
Then, in an “ area de descanso “ there was this beautifully placed sculpture dedicated to Santo Domingo, who built roads,bridges,hospices in the 11th century and the town over which this memorial looks.

Accomodation – surprisingly for a small town, Santo Domingo housed two Paradors,both with a similar name. As a treat, we were booked into Parador de San Domingo Bernardo de Fresneda. Paradors are usually situated in old,venerable / historic buildings and our Parador was no exception as the following photos show.

Anita relaxing in one of the lounges.

“The hotel occupies a former 12th-century hospital near the cathedral, erected by St. Dominic to take in pilgrims traveling on the Way of St. James. It has a regal, elegant style, with majestic function rooms and a lobby filled with Gothic arches and wood coffered ceilings. Fine materials and eye-catching colors—whites and blues—give way to comfortable guest rooms decorated with exquisite taste. You will find a warm, harmonious environment which is also highly suited to social events and meetings.” EXTRACT FROM THE PARADOR WEBSITE

Whites and blues rule in this bedroom.

Mike and I had a walkabout in what was now a relatively deserted town,however we found that much sought after refreshment – Estella Galicia” in a locals’ bar,where the menfolk were deeply engaged in the afternoon ritual of a game of cards…which baffled both of us.

Una Jarra

Then back through the still quiet streets of the Casa Antigua- designated as a historic place of interest – then so many of the places we have been fortunate enough to traverse have held our interest.

On to the Cathedral which has so much history and entertaining legend thst you can avail yourself of this website for more info.https://lariojaturismo.com/en/lugar-de-interes/catedral-de-santo-domingo-de-la-calzada/3c9a5769-d32d-412d-af5d-fdaa6ef4dbb2
It was still no weather for ducks and so we were looking for a restaurant where we could eat dinner outside.
It’s a locals” traditional eatery and I was reassured that we could eat in the tiny square adjacent.
€16.00 Menu del Dia – 3 courses, coffee,water and wine. Most popular dish was a main course of pigs’ trotters consumed with gusto…mainly by the men! As ever in Spain, the pig rules 🇪🇸.

2 Responses to “19th JUNE. To Santo Domingo de la Calzada”

  1. slodown 30/06/2022 at 15:18 #

    Great! I can almost feel the heat, tranquility – and some exhaustion – from my couple of efforts a few years ago with my Mentor and Leader John “Toby” Twort!
    Thanks John.
    If not for you I would never have experienced the wonderful and spiritual Camino.
    Plus, of course, the abundance of Spanish wine on each overnight stop!

    • ensuitepilgrim 30/06/2022 at 15:35 #

      We certainly enjoyed the local wine on this one, too! 🥂

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