Thursday June 16th to Los Arcos and a Wine Fountain at Irache en route.

The gradients look kind today but looks can be deceptive.

We climbed a small hill along an agreeable path towards the Monasterio de Irache,passing small huertas and scallop shells a plenty.

We stopped at a small foundry where there was an impressive array of hand made artefacts on display – a small fire was burning and the craftsman stamped our Credencials.

Before reaching the Monasterio we came to the famous Bodegas Irache vineyards – http://www.Irache.com – founded in 1891. The vines surrounding us round here have been cultivated since the 12 th century. In 1991,100 years after it was founded,a wine and water fountain was put in place. The symbolism represents Jesus’s first miracle at the Wedding of Cana.There are 100 litres of wine available each day after the fountain is switched on at 09.00. Traditionally pilgrims would fill their scallop shell with wine before walking on. We timed it to perfection, but wine just after 09.00 is more of a sobering experience!

“Please let the ones after you enjoy their swing” Que? Lost in translation I think,but I did learn the Spanish for “ swig”- trago.

Just after the Bodega is the Monasterio- by the 7th century there was a religious foundation here and the Benedictines founded the Monasterio in the 10 th century. It has also served as a university teaching medicine,law,philosophy and theology well into the 19 th century.

We walked on in glorious surroundings along a dirt track – fields and forests abound.

We were soon approaching the tiny village of Azqueta and in the distance a view of a distinctive hill that’s topped by the castle ruins of Villamayor de Monjardin.

Understandably none fancied the idea of a two hour detour up the hill despite the promise of views of the Cantabrican mountains- this site has been fortified by different tribes since Roman times.

It’s a long stretch from here to Los Arcos with no services.

We stopped for refreshments at Bar Illaria

A look at the temperature made us decide to take a taxi for the few remaining kilometres to Los Arcos.

We received a warm welcome from Jaime the owner of Hosta Monaco ,with whom I had exchanged several correspondences over the last few months. It is a really good set up – spacious rooms with wrap around balconies and walk in showers.

As the heat subsided Tom,Rob and I went in search of somewhere to eat.Although there appeared to be several choices,according to Google Maps, at least four were no longer open for business- the toll taken by the pandemic and the absence of thousands of pilgrims as another consequence. Rob said when he was here six years ago the place was heaving.