A final meander along the headland and beaches to Chania,with no other purpose than to enjoy the views and just walking…
There are several paths marked only by usage.
The walk takes just under an hour,proceeding at a leisurely pace.
Flowers and plants are still to be found even in the driest of sand and rock.
Eventually,you come upon some low key hotel development but the beach is still accessible as you near the city.
And a sweep of whitesward atop the rocks.
Kandylakia – shrines often but not always found by roadsides – this one was on a Restaurante terrace – Although road accidents are mostly the reason for placing these shrines, on numerous occasions they are placed as a promise and a gesture of thankfulness. They celebrate miracles and those who survived dedicate a kandylaki to their patron saint.
It is a custom that every anniversary relatives and loved ones pay a visit to the shrine which draws upon the ecclesiastical tradition. This tradition represents the Greeks outlook on religion, family ties, remembrance of family history, culture and finally fate. These unique roadside shrines are there to remind us to appreciate every second and every opportunity to be alive. ( From “ Flymetothemoontravel.com”
Chania is small enough to wander the enticing side streets and alleyways without ever worrying about getting lost.
Apparently it’s good for shopping,too.
The coffee in Crete is excellent and this one was no exception,enjoyed in a favourite cafe.
Bus number 13 to Souda Bay – this proved to be an unlucky choice as much of it is off limits – no photography – A massive NATO base. There is also a huge,allied cemetery .
You can walk close by the ferry port.
Wikipedia provides basic information : Souda Bay is a bay and natural harbour near the town of Souda on the northwest coast of the Greek island of Crete. The bay is about 15 km long and only two to four km wide, and a deep natural harbour. It is formed between the Akrotiri peninsula and Cape Drapano, and runs west to east. The bay is overlooked on both sides by hills, with a relatively low and narrow isthmus in the west near Chania.
There are quays for both ferries and cruise ships.
Penultimate day was mainly spent on the beach, with a final meal out at Talos.
A relaxed and satisfying evening, taken at an easy pace. That summarises the “ pace” in general in Crete, amusingly captured in this final quotation:
Cretans, well, most Greeks I know it seems, have little appreciation of the concept of timed arrangements, or indeed the passage of time itself. That morning I noticed that the church bells rang six times at seven o’clock, when I commented on this to Dimitri he just smiled and said ‘God is slow…’
Crete, the largest, the southernmost and the most solitary of the Greek islands, and the fifth largest of the Mediterranean, floats halfway to Africa. It is a hundred and sixty miles long and roughly thirty broad, though wasp waists and swelling salients vary this girth. It is such a steep maze of gorges and crags that distances as the crow flies have no meaning; the islanders themselves measure them by time taken to smoke cigarettes, by hours gauged by the climb or the decline of the sun, and days reckoned from daybreak to sunset; or, more often, during the Occupation, by the duration of nights. Thirty miles in some parts, meant three days (or nights) of scrambles up rocks and breakneck, treacherous descents of landslides.
There were echoes of this evocative description in our revisiting the Gorge of Samaria after 43 years…They say time will tell and it did. But first let’s get to the practicalities which haven’t changed much since 1978.
An early start for this excursion. 06.15 pick up by coach at the hotel just two miles from Chania. Over and through the famous White Mountains to a cafe stop at Omalos for breakfast/ coffee, then a few more Kms to the head of the gorge, which is now a National Park. €5.00 entrance fee. Then you start descending. On completion of the walk which takes between 4-6 hours,depending on your fitness, attitude whatever, you arrive at Aghia Roumeli, now an established village , from where you take a ferry to Sougia, there the same coach takes you back to your hotel. TIMES : From Chania to the Gorge 50 mins, Walk as described. Boat – an hour , we left at 17.30. Coach to Hotel, longer than outward journey at 1 hour 45 mins. We were out for 14 hours. It was well organised:- Coach there and back,€25.00. Entrance €5.00,boat €10.oo.€40 .00 in all . Good value we thought .
The coach ride was brilliant with views of these Limestone White Mountains. Occasional stops for the locals.
Near the head of the Gorge, the weather looked less than welcoming and the temperature was14*.
However, after a strong coffee, the coach took us on from Omalos to the entrance to the Gorge. Please show your ticket .
In ‘78, there was none of this infrastructure.The clouds began to break apart and there were a few spots of rain but no more than spit in the wind.
So, beginning at an elevation of 1230 metres, you descend on serpentine,stony paths.
This gives a false impression really because the descent soon became more tricky and Rocky.
The views were awesome.
Now a National Park, there were designated Fire Muster Points, WCs and Fresh water springs. And even a horse ride back up for anyone having an accident.
Once at river level there were hazard warnings.
Eventually, the river bed was reached after about an hour’s descent.
Hard to believe that there was an actual village existing down here and it only became derelict when occupants were rehoused elsewhere as it became a National Park.
The river bed.
Some information boards.
Approaching the old village of Samaria.
Used for Park Rangers mainly,with WCs and a Spring to top up your water bottle, or have your lunch.
You now begin to feel again the encroachment of the mountains above you.
The gorge is named after St Mary of Egypt and there are the remains of her chapel.
At this point, the last thing I felt capable of was moving quickly!
There wasn’t much movement apart from a few bees, one of which managed to sting me beneath my Fitbit strap. Not a problem though,except for a tiny rash.
The walk became both more troublesome ,walking over and along the river bed and more dramatic.
The Gorge narrows to 3.5 metres at the top.
Another faculty which did not exist 43 years ago, was the walk way, Sidero-Portes ( iron gates) – one of many wobbly pathways across the water.
It’s a doddle crossing the river Tara.
Some more views as the route nears the sea.
A few more crossings.
The walk almost ends at the abandoned village of Palea, which means “ old”,Agia Roumeli. I remember reaching here in ‘78 and there were a few grubby kids with water bottles in a bucket for sale. Now there are three bars.
Look out our kid!
Three Kms on to the newly fashioned Agia passing an abandoned field and and the remains of an ancient bridge,
So now, let’ s get a drink and head for the beach before meeting our guide to pick up the tickets for the ferry at 16.30. The boat leaves at 17.30
The beach was fine pebble and volcanic sand – great to reshrink your feet at least a size – the Libyan sea beckons.
Cretan beer makers have got into the Craft beer scene and this was my favourite, especially after a trek like this,
Shame it didn’t touch the sides.
Boarded the ferry amongst a throng of post Gorgers and set sail for Sougia.
The Venetian Castle.
After an hour, approaching Sougia.
Disembarkation and the awaiting coach.
I’m writing this blog approximately 30 hours after finishing the trek. My thigh and calf muscles still reproach me in a way I cannot remember after any walk…This includes numerous Rambles and a dozen or more Caminos. Experiencing this at 32 years was obviously a very different experience even though there was precious little supportive infrastructure then. Age…. The other differences were as follows: massively more busy, literally coachloads ( hands up we were in one ). Welcome WCs Etc. I felt pressure from walkers wanting to get past.We had forgotten how difficult it is underfoot. Rocks, shingle, tree roots and boulders. Talk about rose tinted glasses. We probably walked quicker than we needed. When you are walking with Ramblers you are amongst a group of similar vintage, no apparent differences. Even on Caminos, the difference in generations is not so obvious, probably because there are fewer walkers and it is not so frenetic. Like the Camino, there walkers from all over the world,going by the different and unrecognisable accents and that was great. But watching spring- heeled 24 year olds hop and clamber was…
More akin to these unique goats.
At times it had me feeling like a down at heel 74 year old! The aches and pains will pass I’m sure, hopefully the Ibruprofen will kick in. No regrets.
Having checked the Chania App. We were fairly certain Chania could be reached on foot,keeping the sea on our left. After one false trail this proved to be the case.
Didn’t get up there but what a clear view.
Came across some local fauna and flora en route.
Close Up.
The route was quite straightforward, passing a couple of hotel gardens and lots of unreclaimed land.
This impressive structure took us over a river and into Chania’s seaside suburbs.Must have been after Wednesday’s tumult!
Soon Chania was in sight and these chimneys are the remains of early 20th century industry – an oil refinery.
The iconic lighthouse.
Walking towards the Venetian harbour – this time without the need for umbrellas.
The many pedestrianised side streets are always a temptation.
Looking for a coffee stop.
Resisted buying one of these to scare off the pigeons from the patio back home.
A cool place to people watch and enjoy a coffee.
Rooms to Rent are ubiquitous.
Just hope you don’t have noisy neighbours.
So many charming corners.
Headed for the famous market and enjoyed looking round,taking note of a seafood option for lunch,later.
Enquired at a travel agency about walking the Samaria Gorge next week – good information – took a selfie whist waiting.
That’s me in the corner That’s me in the spot-light Losing my religion Trying to keep up with you And I don’t know if I can do it Oh no I’ve said too much I haven’t said enough REM
Always a viewpoint, a tower.
Walked alongside some of the walls which had intermittent desolation and new construction.
Eventually came to the “ Knifemakers’ street where they still make knives – for culinary purposes you understand.
Came to a smart hotel built sympathetically, according to the sign, on and in the site of an ancient monastery.
Walking on we came across a square which on first impression looked like the aftermath of a street party – desultory site we thought – I asked a couple of charming girls what is this place -apparently the site had been taken over by locals wanting to help out homeless or displaced people and so it was in effect a political squat.
This is the name of the group involved.The girls also added that views like this would then remain open to everyone. A hotel conversion would prevent public access. Maybe some things got lost in translation but it was refreshing to meet young people involved in positive political action.
Some more viewpoints of a different kind.
Not to mention the National Greek Soccer Museum.
Now what year did Greece sweep them all aside?
Back to the Market for that now overdue lunch.
Seafood and Retsina – a marriage made in Chania.
I was taken by an old photo on the wall of a gentleman enjoying his lunch . Not that I wanted to emulate him
Had to walk back to walk off that lunch. Could have done without the reminder about what had just been ingested,
The Aegean now on the right and the bay not too far off, after a bit of a scramble over the headland.
A day for exploring the nearby beaches,about a seven minute walk away.
Most places are named after Saints and sitting atop an outcrop was the chapel of the Saints, in pole position. Getting up to it was through my kind of stile – a turnstile. Ramblers will know what I mean.
The guardian Angel has his feet up – doesn’t look like a stressful job.
Fine views over both bays.
It didn’t take long to circle this pleasant,little outcrop,then it was back down to the beach and the serious business of doing nothing much except lounge and soak up some sunshine.Very clean, safe and warm.Everything you need to know…as long as you can read Greek.
Later that same day, Hannah and I enjoyed a drink at the poolside .
For dinner we headed for the Blue Sea Restaurant and stopped for a sharpener on the way in a bar with some very natural attractions.
Hanging by a thread .A canopy of Gourds.All grown from seed by the owner’s son,apparently. A man after my own …seedtray.
The scene at the restaurant was far calmer than the previous evening.
We had a really good meal here and the service was excellent.
The wet weather on day two of the holiday had been predicted but undaunted, the local bus was taken into Chania – an opportunist umbrella sales man just happened to have placed himself in the square where we alighted the bus and so I parted with 5 euros for something that looked as watertight as tissue paper,however, it worked.
The rain came in gusts as we walked past the Firka Fortress
Taking shelter by some coffee tables,this was the sea scene – the waiters disdained to risk a soaking by crossing the road to serve us,so after the tumult abated we walked on to the Venetian Harbour,lined with restaurants and bars,knowing we would pay the price for the view,but you only live once and it was raining.
Thanks for the photos Hannah.The Kioutsouk Mosque,17 th century
In between gusts we took in some of the sights,places and squares of the Old Town, having already determined to return on a brighter day to explore in depth.
Snatched a picnic lunch in 1821 square.
Then the bus back to Lotus apartments. Feet up time.
In the evening a brief break in the clouds allowed for a spot of sunbathing and even a dip in the pool ( not me ). Then, taking a chance, a walk was taken around the two bays for pre dinner APERITIVOS at the Blue Sea beachside restaurant. In an instant, the rain became tropical so we scrambled inside the restaurant whilst the staff valiantly pushed large poles up against the awning to remove quickly gathering gallons,or should it be litres? No, “ litres” does not convey the weight of the water!
The gathering monsoon.
Walking about in the weather was not a waste of time.
Next stop ? Next day? The beach and a revisit to the Blue Sea Restaurant for dinner.
Some atmospheric Cretan music to help set the scene.
Chania was the last place we stayed in 43 years ago and it has mixed memories of illness and delight.Now in September 2021 it is the location for an extensive stay of 11 days,a walkable few kilometres from the town, in Lotus Hotel Apartments. This will be the longest time I will have spent in one place,on holiday ever – complete contrast to the many years spent camping,motorhoming and occasional city breaks – I hope I can cope !
The day began early- 02.15 alarm – taxi to Birmingham International Airport at 03.00 for a 06.20 four hour flight to Chania. The airport was relatively quiet and getting through check-in and security was painless and well organised.
Highlight during the flight was the views over the Alps in bright sunshine.
After all the kerfuffle of Covid Jab documentation and Passenger Location Form filling, again, getting through to the baggage carousel was easy – presentation of passport,stamped, then a cursory glance at the aforesaid bumf in a hallway just beyond passport control by some other bored looking staff.
With a two hour time difference I realised ,how glad I was to have pre- booked the taxi to the apartment as we met our driver in the Arrivals hall,holding my name ( correctly spelt – wonders! ). He greeted us with friendly fist bump and in no time at all we were meandering along,past Souda Bay and it’s historic WWII grave yard, the second deepest port in the Med. according to our driver – there was a huge cruise ship moored – then a long a stretch of motorway and some narrow back roads to Karo Daratso.
Although it was early, the apartment was ready and after filling in a simple form at the desk, unpacked and impressed with our surroundings- shrubs and flowers,carefully maintained,plus a couple of pools . Right outside the apartment balcony were Orange and Lemon trees.
Soon we were ready to find coffee and a light lunch at the Loca cafe bar just down the road. Spoilt for choice round here. The friendly lady behind the bar directed us to the beach areas,down a very quiet tree lined road adjacent to the cafe. There were a number of small hotels and restaurants en route and many of the names I could recall from earlier searches on Booking.Com. I was impressed by the variety of vegetation and flowers along the way.
Pomegranates
The way to the beaches was not far and after walking through a small, pinewood which opened up on to a small inlet with a fine, sandy beach. My immediate impression was that it was understated, yes there was a section with loungers and parasols to hire, paddle boats and a couple of bars,but not too sanitised,rough around the edges you might say but extremely clean and uncrowded. Apparently there are over 500 blue flag beaches in Greece.
Paralia Agii Apostoli beach.
A spot of shopping on the way back,followed by a rest at the peaceful apartment poolside – it is only 18.00, local time – a long,but enjoyable day so far. Next up is the challenge of “ Happy Hour “and where to have dinner.
ensuitepilgrim's Blog 