Melide to Arzua – Now on the Camino Frances – Lovely 18 KM.

Well a transformation might be an overstatement, but I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of numbers as we left Melide on the Frances,only to be brought up short by a Trinkets stall immediately on the Camino. Yet, within a few metres, behold an ancient Romanesque church – the Catholic Church does not have a proud record when it comes to bedfellows and she has always been comfortable in the lap of Capitalism – beautiful place.

The Camino went though woodlands and pastures,Springs,Washing places,Horreos – archetypal Camino sights.There’s is no lack of cafes on the Frances and this one did not disappoint.

Every parish seems to have an information board, in addition to regular ” This is Where You Are” maps.

A bijou cottage,albeit lacking in windows, with some exotic flowers.

Whenever you come to cross a main road, there are warning signs for both Pelegrinos and motorists.

Having safely crossed the busy N 547, there was a church with a sign inviting pilgrims to come in and get a stamp – Sello – for the pilgrim passport – Credencial.

The main image of St James, in this church dedicated to Santiago, is the Matamoros- the Moors Slayer – a lot of sensitive souls have problems with this popular image of the saint.

Giant Cabbages and well secured Lemons.

Streams, Vistas and growing numbers of Eucalyptus plantations – a cash crop.It was time for lunch and being near Arzua, the locally but famous cheese is a must in a bocadillo.This is a long established cafe on the Frances. I remember it well.

Ribadiso, on the ISO river, this is a historic bridge with a long line of various ownerships.

A sharp climb and Arzua is within touching distance – a ribbon development bisected by the N 547 – but a long established Pilgrim stopover. I lost count of the number of albergues hostels and cafes. A welcoming platter for anyone needing a late lunch…for 20.

A Fonda Do Norte, our accommodation for the night was a km out of the main drag and worth the the extra walk. Lovely views, too, not of the washing on the terrace! Out host offered us a welcome lift back in to town – another Camino Angel. Casa Chelo was recommended and you walk through the kitchen to the dining room – a great smile from the chef.The pig’s cheeks were sumptuous.