To Lugo and a changing landscape; flora, fauna,an unlikely coffee source and Galician hospitality.

This was always going to be a challenge – a long etape of 30 km the guide books stated. The guide books have underestimated every stage so far.There was a heavy mist which lingered for a couple of hours. I spied this church in what looked like a picnic spot, neither of which seemed to have been used for some time. There was not the usual information board and I could find no reference in my guidance. It was a forlorn scene.Some brightness around the next bend. Roses are popular in this hamlet.I had read that there was an occasional, summertime – only coffee possibility in the next village which was famous for its 15 th century church – a national monument- and a regal Manor House that had been a Hotel, but which now was closed. The coffee spot was both unlikely and very welcoming – A Camino burger van!After enjoying a super large Americano and a slice of Empanada, the proprietor gave me a pen decorated with the Camino and his van – super guy.

Moving on through the village I was taken by a bench converted with two ancient wagon wheels. Adjacent was a field with a Galician take on ” the cat among the pigeons “.A little further on there was a sad scene.The Primitivo has been much improved in its infrastructure with the help of The E U’s cultural arm.Renovating the Way, developing remote hamlets by assisting with the development of hostals, for example. More wagon wheels,too. There were several small villages along this etape and helpful notice boards provide an insight about their history.Not everything has been reclaimed and one wonders what fate befell this once imposing Manor.The lilies were a showcase. After several rather dreary kilometres ( compared to the rest of the walk), Lugo was nearing and the Primitivo enters the city via an ancient bridge and barrio.It took me the best part of an hour to find the accommodation, passing Santiago’s chapel en route – Despite being here on another Camino four years or so ago,I had forgotten how big a city it is.Only a 100 kilometres to Santiago,now.B& B Murallos Romano took some finding even with Google maps, but it was worth it as the host gave me a lovely, sympathetic welcome and urged me to enjoy tea and buns, English style.After a shower and brief rest, it was time to head in to the old city to meet up with our three English amigos for a meal in the tapas area – we met up with other Pelegrinos who had been our daily comrades, by coincidence – when the Spanish pilgrims choose a restaurant you know it’s going to be good. Atmosphere enhanced by a concert celebrating Galician folk music and costume – just look at these wonderful children piping and drumming their hearts out in the Cathedral square.This has been the longest stage of the Primitivo so far – the feet are standing up to it well, so far.