CAMBRIDGE AND ELY – A Three Day Break at Cherry Hinton.

Cambridge has been on the ” must visit” list for some time and it proved to be an awesome place. I can now quite understand why the author Zadie Smith said :

” Cambridge was a joy. Tediously. People reading books in a posh place. It was my fantasy. I loved it. I miss it still.”

Certainly, the grounds of the colleges were beautifully kept and one could not help but be a little envious of those who had the opportunity to study in such surroundings.

Occupied by the Romans for strategic reasons,developed as a trading post by the Vikings and most importantly in 1209, a group of rebel scholars, forced out of Oxford arrived and the rest, as they say,is history. A star-studded cast of scientists, authors and entertainers prospered here and the university has produced more Nobel Peace Prize winners than any other.

Following a recommended “trail” from the tourist office seemed like good idea, so many jaw dropping settings – the only problem was avoiding being run over by one of the thousands of cyclists that roam the city.

Although the Medieval buildings are so atmospheric, the place names resonant of a deeply Christian heritage, its museums are also in the heart of the city and freely available.

The river Cam, of course, adds to its attractiveness and punters were busy ferrying tourists, perilously – it seemed to me – perched on the back of the boats as they effortlessly manoeuvred their way .

A special mention has to be made of the college chapels and I was particularly taken by a simple crucifix commemorating the deaths of migrants at sea.

If you wish to visit all of the colleges, be prepared to pay for the privilege in some of them – though a good number welcome you freely.

Christ’s is the highlight and it’s setting alone is inspiring.

It was an exhausting but exhilarating day – walked over nine miles – and in a day’s visit you can only fit in so much. But, Ely was on the wish list and so a bus journey back to Cherry Hinton campsite, shower, beer and a BBQ.

Tuesday and a short train journey to Ely and its wonderful cathedral .

What a contrast – an oasis of calm compared to a somewhat frenetic Cambridge – following the “Eel trail” was recommended.The Eel is celebrated with a procession every May, but the main focus was the Cathedral.Ethelreda,a Saxon princess, founded a double monastery for men and women here in 673, the site of her shrine, a place of Pilgrimage for centuries is in front of the high altar. Work on the present building began in the early 1080’s and it is now a massive church, a resplendent” offering to God”, in the words of the Dean of Ely.

Oliver Cromwell lived here for ten years and his cottage now houses the Tourist Office.

Ely – an understated but very rewarding place – again blessed by a River, the Great Ouse, another attractive feature.

Three days and a full programme – I don’t know East Anglia very well but will have to revisit and try to do it justice.

Will finish by mentioning Cherry Hinton – an interesting place, good campsite in an old chalk quarry. Nearby are other quarries, now sites of special scientific interest, quite moonlike!