14 Jun

           Santiago de Compostela 

“Santiago has the privilege of having been, throughout the whole of the Second Millennium, the great confluence of the European road network along which the preaching of the Gospels spread, which is the basis for the civilisation of this old continent.

We may, therefore, say that the Ways to Santiago are the common denominator in European culture. Therefore, in a Europe which more than ever wishes to see itself strong and cohesive, speaking in one voice in all its languages, these routes which are public places for convergence and harmony, should be respected and promoted. On them, any Pilgrim feels like a citizen of the world, allowing him to acquire perspective on his convictions in an ecumenical atmosphere of openness and tolerance.

Into this complex network of Jacobean routes coming from all the corners of Europe are threaded those which begin in Portugal and these are as many as the actual opportunities for access from each locality to the Apostle’s tomb. However, out of all of them, the royal Oporto-Barcelos–Valença road has a particular importance, as here almost all the others come together, reinforcing this road as the backbone of the Portuguese Ways to Santiago.“

From the Guide to the Camhino Português published by the Associação dos Amigos do Caminho Português de Santiago.””

Pp. Johnnie Walker.

If there was ever a city I love returning to, it is Santiago de Compostela.

The Sutton Coldfield Rambleros had two and a half days, as we were staying at the atmospheric San Martín de Pinario, just behind the Cathedral.

Sunday evening, people did their own thing, Tapas….

Monday dawned damply,but I had things, still, to do.

The first  job was to get everyones Compostelas from the Pilgrim Office. Normally, you have to queue, sometimes for up to two hours, but I was able to obtain them as a “ Grupo “, with Hannah’s help, as she took all our Pilgrim passports and the information sheet, recording our details, Eg age, reason for the pilgrimage, etc; down at 7.45 am.

I was able to collect them, with tubes, at 11 am – no queuing!

Rambleros made their own ways around the city, taking in the Cathedral, of course. I had prearranged a meeting with Johnnie Walker, author of thirteen different Camino guides, to help choose a restaurant for our celebration dinner. Was able to book us into our own dining room, for that evening, at Casa Felisa. Great to meet up with JW again.

We met as arranged,in the Hotel bar at 7 pm. I had just communicated details of the evening’s arrangements, when I was stopped in my tracks by a presentation from Rosie, on behalf of the group….I’m rarely lost for words… it was such a generous act and an individually signed card, too. Just to say I was  quite overwhelmed. Muchas, Muchas Gracias.

The evening meal,a la carte, for a change, was very enjoyable. 

TUESDAY. OUR EXCURSION BY COACH TO THE COSTA DE MORTE

Some while back, I had booked an excursion for the group, taking us, first,to a famous point on the Pilgrim Route to Finisterre, the Puente de Maceira.

Then,a coffee stop at Muros on the seafront.

We drove on to the only waterfalls that actually cascade as a river, into the sea. The spectacular Fervenza de Rio Ezaro.

https://youtu.be/Hg0XUqG0XgQ Paul McCartney singing “Waterfalls”

From there we travelled on to Finisterre, with its famous lighthouse and .000 marker stone.

Finally,to Muxia, with its special church , fronting the ocean, and the rocks,legend says, formed part of the “stone” boat, which brought the remains of St James to Spain. Mm…

The Virxe da Barca sanctuary is a church located in Muxía, Spain. It was destroyed by a fire that was started by lightning on 25 December 2013.

There is also a granite monument, dedicated to all the volunteers that helped to clear a massive oil spillage from a tanker,some years ago.

It was an all day excursion and we had the services of a guide, Antonio, throughout the day – he was knowledgeable and funny – the best combination.Although he was rather prone to confusing Galician history with legend!

He did explain the reasons for the stone built Horreos that are so characteristic of Galicia . Sea salt proof.

Ubiquitous on the Camino are the Cruceiros – ancient and modern, sometimes found in unusual places.

Our evening meal was taken in the San Pinario refectory- complete with pulpit,  upto which one or two Rambleros climbed,to wave to us below.

San Pinario lived up to my expectations, in every way. All  the staff were  friendly and very efficient.

Our barman pretended to be horrified when Roger ordered us Brandy sours -“Limon in Brandy? Que?” A true Galician; great sense of humour, he needed it, dealing with us!

The evening in the bar was still being enjoyed by a raucous group of Austrian Pelegrinos in full song,  with accompanying moves, when I bid everyone good night.

We had an early meet on the steps at 7 am, where our preordered taxis awaited, to take us to the airport.

And so, journey almost done. I am making notes for this Blog, in Madrid airport, where we have a bit of a wait between flights.

I had already expressed some of my feelings about our Rambleros , as a group, but I think it’s worth repeating.

The group always showed the Camino Spirit, in helping and encouraging each other and me😥.

They can all be really proud of their achievement- 77 miles in 6 days. Some of those days quite damp at times.

Before we began I was very fond of them all, but now I am also full of admiration.

As someone once said:

 “I think friendship is based more on shared experiences than incompatibility, or attraction.”

Thanks, also , to Barbara and Hannah, for all their patience and assistance.

I met many who were walking towards Santiago & many who were walking away from somewhere.

I’m not sure which lot I was with!

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