ensuitepilgrim's Blog

           Santiago de Compostela 

“Santiago has the privilege of having been, throughout the whole of the Second Millennium, the great confluence of the European road network along which the preaching of the Gospels spread, which is the basis for the civilisation of this old continent.

We may, therefore, say that the Ways to Santiago are the common denominator in European culture. Therefore, in a Europe which more than ever wishes to see itself strong and cohesive, speaking in one voice in all its languages, these routes which are public places for convergence and harmony, should be respected and promoted. On them, any Pilgrim feels like a citizen of the world, allowing him to acquire perspective on his convictions in an ecumenical atmosphere of openness and tolerance.

Into this complex network of Jacobean routes coming from all the corners of Europe are threaded those which begin in Portugal and these are as many as the actual opportunities for access from each locality to the Apostle’s tomb. However, out of all of them, the royal Oporto-Barcelos–Valença road has a particular importance, as here almost all the others come together, reinforcing this road as the backbone of the Portuguese Ways to Santiago.“

From the Guide to the Camhino Português published by the Associação dos Amigos do Caminho Português de Santiago.””

Pp. Johnnie Walker.

If there was ever a city I love returning to, it is Santiago de Compostela.

The Sutton Coldfield Rambleros had two and a half days, as we were staying at the atmospheric San Martín de Pinario, just behind the Cathedral.

Sunday evening, people did their own thing, Tapas….

Monday dawned damply,but I had things, still, to do.

The first  job was to get everyones Compostelas from the Pilgrim Office. Normally, you have to queue, sometimes for up to two hours, but I was able to obtain them as a “ Grupo “, with Hannah’s help, as she took all our Pilgrim passports and the information sheet, recording our details, Eg age, reason for the pilgrimage, etc; down at 7.45 am.

I was able to collect them, with tubes, at 11 am – no queuing!

Rambleros made their own ways around the city, taking in the Cathedral, of course. I had prearranged a meeting with Johnnie Walker, author of thirteen different Camino guides, to help choose a restaurant for our celebration dinner. Was able to book us into our own dining room, for that evening, at Casa Felisa. Great to meet up with JW again.

We met as arranged,in the Hotel bar at 7 pm. I had just communicated details of the evening’s arrangements, when I was stopped in my tracks by a presentation from Rosie, on behalf of the group….I’m rarely lost for words… it was such a generous act and an individually signed card, too. Just to say I was  quite overwhelmed. Muchas, Muchas Gracias.

The evening meal,a la carte, for a change, was very enjoyable. 

TUESDAY. OUR EXCURSION BY COACH TO THE COSTA DE MORTE

Some while back, I had booked an excursion for the group, taking us, first,to a famous point on the Pilgrim Route to Finisterre, the Puente de Maceira.

Then,a coffee stop at Muros on the seafront.

We drove on to the only waterfalls that actually cascade as a river, into the sea. The spectacular Fervenza de Rio Ezaro.

https://youtu.be/Hg0XUqG0XgQ Paul McCartney singing “Waterfalls”

From there we travelled on to Finisterre, with its famous lighthouse and .000 marker stone.

Finally,to Muxia, with its special church , fronting the ocean, and the rocks,legend says, formed part of the “stone” boat, which brought the remains of St James to Spain. Mm…

The Virxe da Barca sanctuary is a church located in Muxía, Spain. It was destroyed by a fire that was started by lightning on 25 December 2013.

There is also a granite monument, dedicated to all the volunteers that helped to clear a massive oil spillage from a tanker,some years ago.

It was an all day excursion and we had the services of a guide, Antonio, throughout the day – he was knowledgeable and funny – the best combination.Although he was rather prone to confusing Galician history with legend!

He did explain the reasons for the stone built Horreos that are so characteristic of Galicia . Sea salt proof.

Ubiquitous on the Camino are the Cruceiros – ancient and modern, sometimes found in unusual places.

Our evening meal was taken in the San Pinario refectory- complete with pulpit,  upto which one or two Rambleros climbed,to wave to us below.

San Pinario lived up to my expectations, in every way. All  the staff were  friendly and very efficient.

Our barman pretended to be horrified when Roger ordered us Brandy sours -“Limon in Brandy? Que?” A true Galician; great sense of humour, he needed it, dealing with us!

The evening in the bar was still being enjoyed by a raucous group of Austrian Pelegrinos in full song,  with accompanying moves, when I bid everyone good night.

We had an early meet on the steps at 7 am, where our preordered taxis awaited, to take us to the airport.

And so, journey almost done. I am making notes for this Blog, in Madrid airport, where we have a bit of a wait between flights.

I had already expressed some of my feelings about our Rambleros , as a group, but I think it’s worth repeating.

The group always showed the Camino Spirit, in helping and encouraging each other and me😥.

They can all be really proud of their achievement- 77 miles in 6 days. Some of those days quite damp at times.

Before we began I was very fond of them all, but now I am also full of admiration.

As someone once said:

 “I think friendship is based more on shared experiences than incompatibility, or attraction.”

Thanks, also , to Barbara and Hannah, for all their patience and assistance.

I met many who were walking towards Santiago & many who were walking away from somewhere.

I’m not sure which lot I was with!

It was a pity that the rain yesterday, deterred people from visiting Padron, as it is such a historic place in the context of the Camino.Legend has it that St James began his ministry here and also it is the place to where his remains were brought, after his martyrdom in Rome. There is much to discover about the Camino, here, not to mention the famous Padron Peppers.

The Camino bisected the hotel car park and we were quickly under way, under fairer skies and it was not long before we were removing outer layers as the sun broke through.

Quite a variety of sections, today, the usual woods of Eucalyptus, Pine and Oak, small pueblos and the interesting church:- details from a local guide.

“The Sanctuary of A Escravitude is only 5 km from Padrón’s historic quarter, on the way to Santiago de Compostela. The church began to be built in the 16th century on the site of the so-called “Fonte Santa” (Holy Fountain), financed by donations of worshippers who visited the place due to the water’s healing properties. Its main elements are the central stairway, under which the fountain is housed, and the two large towers that border the central nave and date from the 19th century.

There is an interesting account about a miracle related to the Fonte Santa that may explain the sanctuary’s origin. According to the legend, a sick man that was doing the Way of St. James to cure his dropsy stopped there for a drink, and 72 hours later he had been cured without any medical help. On seeing that he had been healed, the man exclaimed: “Grazas, Virxe, que me libraches da escravitude do meu mal” (“Thanks, Virgin, for releasing me from the slavery of my ailment”).”

There was a floral decoration in the church grounds, celebrating the recent feast of Corpus Christi.

We made the inevitable stop for coffee near Faramello, after passing a Galician fiesta of Scarecrows, which looked as it would get quite lively, later.

Rosie looks made up with her choice! Not all buildings are in good repair and we noticed abandoned houses in every village; some quite dramatic.

Could not write a Blog about a Camino through Galicia, without including a photo of a” horreos- a traditional, free standing barn on stone pillars, where grain was stored to prevent spoilage by vermin.

S de C was on the horizon and soon through suburbs and Sunday deserted main roads, we came into the Cathedral square… 77 miles accomplished and everyone intact and just a little proud of themselves; quite rightly. They had reached the end of the Camino Portugues…hopefully, it’s impact will remain with them for a long time.

More on our time in Santiago to come.

Natural paths, quiet lanes, long established woodland and two river valleys – but rain. Two slight climbs up the Bermana Valley, then Cortinas – the “ high” point. Descent then into the Valga Valley.

There are always churches and chapels along Caminos, for obvious reasons; most in good repair and in attractive settings.

Rambleros are always in search of coffee and we were well received in this Pelegrino orientated stop. With its counter, displaying our route.

This tape is 20 Km in official length, though we walked further on from Padron, eventually, to our hotel. At times we were following a Roman Road…

Passing some eye catching sights, both floral and faunal….Bottoms up!

Everyone was relieved to reach Hotel Scala, a big , bustling hotel with parties of Spanish Golden Oldies – made us feel young – and school groups. Dinner was served after Hannah did a double act with the waiter,to a round of applause,  in getting everyone their correct Pre- ordered menu.. of course they ha d forgotten ! At the end of dinner, the same super efficient waiter presented us with three bottles of Orujo, for digestive purposes only….

“Buena salud”

We set off along a busy stretch of main road, but soon went right to the village of Arcade, famous now for its oysters, but historically for being the place where the Spanish vanquished Napoleon’s troops during the War of Independence. A handsome bridge , the Pontesampaio and  Cafe a Romana – last chance for refreshments before Pontevedra, with fine views of both the bridge and the Estuary. The rain started, as you can tell, by the impressive ponchos on show. And a gull had its eyes on the Churros.

We passed three impressive statues, one featuring Santiago, looking serenely Northwards and we obtained our “Sellos” – Stamps for our Pilgrim passport – at the chapel of Santa Marta.

( Author’s note – WordPress is putting the photos above the text, but they should be obvious!)

We reached Pontevedra and our hotel, Rias Bajas….sadly the rain continued, so we enjoyed the comfort of this fine hotel, until it stopped, around 6 pm, when we were able to walkabout the city, which has much resonance for Pelegrinos, especially the fine Church, La Pelegrina, where for €1.00, you can climb 64 steps to look down on its classic structure.

There is so much to see here and just rambling around the narrow, arcaded streets and interesting squares is a pleasure in itself.

Dinner was taken in the Rias Bajas hotel;extremely good and breakfast the next morning was a feast- plus a sunny sky under which we moved on to Caldas de Reis.

Left Vigo under dull skies , but dry. Making our way upwards out of the city. We needed a stop to buy a few snacks, etc, as part of this stretch of the Camino has no bars or cafes. Lots of places looked half open – 08.30 onwards – but not officially open till 09.00. Eventually, we came to a super Mercardo at 08.58 and they let us in. We had not gone many more metres when a lady stopped those at the head of the group to advise us we were heading in the wrong direction ! Fortunately, by only a few hundred metres  – we had missed  a turn – I kept her company in faltering Spanish, whilslt she accompanied us to the right road. They say “The Camino Provides”….in this case, our Guardian Angel; wingless but wonderful.

We found a coffee stop, almost the last before the Senda de Agua, and were given a warm welcome.

Walking on to the Senda de Agua – part of the 39 Km water pipe route from an Embalse to Vigo, we were rewarded with fine views of the Ria.

After a few Km we stopped at a gushing fountain, for a break, close by an eerie looking, long abandoned building.

Brother, Matt in deep conversation with his sister-in-law.More views of the Ria and onwards towards Redondela.

By 1.30, everyone was ready for a lunch break, which we enjoyed opposite the 16 th century building, which now houses the town’s original Albergue. Redondela has two magnificent railway viaducts, still in operation.

L

Lunch is a very important time for Rambleros; something else they have in common with Spain.

That’ s our hotel, only ….5 miles or so to go….?

Sue in a sea of shells – try saying that after a couple Brandies!

We were soon safely arrived at Santo Apostolo and enjoyed refreshments overlooking the Ria, followed by dinner in the Comedor – we were really well treated – thanks to Laura and the staff .

On to Pontevedra, tomorrow- Ultreia.

Thankfully, nearly everyone had the right wet weather  gear, for our first day on the Camino. We had a great breakfast at Hotel Costa Verde and set off for Baiona, in steady rain, under heavy cloud. However, it didn’t dampen the group’s spirits as we made our way along rustic paths and cycle ways towards Baiona.

Coffee  stop at the “ Muino”  Campsite, where we were well received and revived.

https://youtu.be/nOZrTkBghjo ” One More Cup of Coffee Before I Go “. – Roger McGuin and Calexico.

The views were still awesome despite the drizzle and low cloud. Everyone did well climbing 170 metres up through the pass and onto some small hamlets above Baiona, which we could soon see below us.

An eccentric” Well “stopped us in our tracks.

We spent a couple of hours in  pretty Baiona .

Then, on to the the local bus to Vigo,€2.20 avoiding an uninspiring Walk into the city. We still needed the Google Map reading skills of some of the group to get us to our hotel, passing two impressive sculptures, en route.

Hotel Atlantico, where a rather frazzled receptionist attempted to organise  the rooms – eventually sorted – good news, the ever reliable Correos (  Spanish Post Office ) had delivered all our luggage- take note Iberia Express, our member’s Case has still not arrived.

Menu Pelegino for dinner – a little earlier  to bed for most – hopefully, slightly less damp tomorrow as we make for Redondela.

Thnks to Hannah and Paul Carpenter for some of the photos.

It was with relief, that I was able to greet all our group, in the departure lounge at Bham Airport. And even greater relief to give everyone their

Credencials, lightening my load, as a result.

The flight was full, but left promptly.

At the back of your mind is always the worry about luggage transfers, on a dual flight journey.

Slight confusion at Barajas Airport Re. Flight transfer, but resolved soon enough.

We should meet up with two Italian caministas and my brother Matt and Brid, who flew in from Dublin on Sunday.

The weather forecast for our first day’s walk is not encouraging, with rain forecast,however, it is not too long a walk to Baiona and , it is supposed to dry up and brighten up, the following day, out of Vigo.

The flight to S de C took an hour and awaiting us in Arrivals was our coach driver.

All going to plan until one of the group realised that his luggage was not on the carousel!

This meant a slight delay as it had to be reported….there was a promise that it would be delivered the next day – it was still in Madrid.

Spectacular views along the AP 9 and a rainbow, to boot. We all had a good meal in the hotel, Costa Verde, and everyone was pleased either rooms.

Weather for Tuesday’s walk to Baiona….not brilliant.