Saturday evening was enjoyably prolonged, after dinner in Santa Apostol,by a conversation with the host , who is a Knight of St James. His English was good and he told us of his devotion and affection for the Coastal Route – not in the least sanctimonious, or pompous – largesse and good humour. He treated us to samples of Orujo, a Galician specialty liqueur, pointing out the differences between the ” herbas”, the “aguardiente” and the ” crema” – didn’t fancy the latter as he said it was akin to Bailey’s !😝
Sunday morning dawned brightly and after a light breakfast, we set off for Pontevedra and the Deviation of the Variante Spirtual. We walked with two ladies from Colorado, USA! We had met them a couple of days, previously; Chris & Kris. Real enthusiasts, they were greatly taken by this little shrine, en route.
We soon reached Arcade, which I remembered from my solo Camino, because it was drizzling that day and I had my photo taken by a couple of Portuguese ladies and I reciprocated – that photo is on the front blog page. I got Mac to take one, in the sunshine, this time. The bridge is famous in Galician and Spanish history of Independence, because Napoleon was defeated here.
After crossing the Sampoio Bridge, we had coffee and complimentary Churros, in the company of two guides from a local company, whose job was to take Turigrinos from place to place, en route. The lady gave Mac some impromptu lessons in Spanish pronunciation, warning him that mispronouncing ” Arousa” – one of our destinations, would lead to a misconception about a Russian woman!
We walked on and before long came to the Capel de Santa Maria and obtained a “sello” for our pilgrim passport – you need at least two per day , in the last 100KM in Galicia – made a change from bars and hotels.
All along the Way, there were fields, gardens rich with grapes, tomatoes, quinces and oranges – ” King Harvest Has Surely Come ” – https://youtu.be/5tWR3F4oQN4 – The Band, from THE GENUINE ROCK OF AGES Album, came to mind.
We were nearing the outskirts of Pontevedra, a city of 80 .000 inhabitants and a famous pilgrimage centre on the route to Santiago – the suburbs are far from endearing and you would not think that its historic centre could be such a contrast – but you could describe the approaches to Santiago, similarly. There were two images that cheered us up.
And so into Pontevedra, where I had stayed twice before – it is a great city – its most famous Camino church is shaped as a shell. The old streets and remains are really well preserved, as is the bridge which takes you Northwards , towards both Santiago and the Variante Spirituale.
We though there was a Camino Exam coming up, at this point…
Revision notes, please!
After two KM, the Way goes along a Roman Road, towards the turn left to the Variante Spirituale, with its distinctive waymarks. This Variante has only been supported since 2012.
An easy stroll took us to the Monastery of St John de Poio, with views of the Ria de Pontevedra – the heart of the Rias Baixas. There is a wonderful cloister, ribbed vaults, and an amazing mosaic, based on the Camino.
and also, the longest “horreo ” in Galicia , if not Spain – these are grain stores – symbolic of Galicia.
This region makes the best Albariño wine; the Monastery makes its own – € 6.00 a bottle in its bar!
And now for dinner…
ensuitepilgrim's Blog 
Don’t know how you manage to compose such a detailed blog each day John. Excellent.