Povoa onwards…Esposende and Viano do Castelo

We had yet to meet up with all seven members of this loosely described group – we had been on the same flight with three members, C , D and his wife,T. As we had only been given the stages for each day, not the hotels, it would only be by coincidence that some of us stayed in the same place. The two other members had flown in from Ireland, R and a lady, B.It would be on the outskirts of a lovely little village, Fao, that we first encountered R, a lovely guy, with GSOH, by chance in a cafe, where we met up with D and T. C and B we occasionally walked with during one or two of the days. Of course, on any Camino, everyone walks at their own pace,so it was probably more essential, to develop a group dynamic, that evenings provided a chance to meet up. To date,a week on, this has happened once. I don’t know what the other ” members” felt about this – for me, it was inconsequential, I.e” Que Sera, Sera.”Mac, my regular walking compadre, found it frustrating at times. 
We had , as is the norm, met up with several other pelegrinos, from USA, Ireland and even Yorkshire,plus a group of three ladies, from Spain, who were both funny and friendly company.

Still, on with the Camino. 

Walking towards Esposende, provided more boardwalks alongside the sea, but one seemingly, never- ending slog through a forest of the ubiquitous, Eucalyptus trees. At the end of which, being slightly ahead of Mac, I found myself, inland, by the beautiful parish church of Apulia. I enquired of a couple, nearby, if there was a bar/ cafe nearby- no, they were some way off, back by the beach. In no time at all, from nowhere, they provided me with two ice cold bottles of water. After a faltering, but sympathetic conversation, in French, revived, I walked on…..the Camino provides.

On eventually arriving at the aforesaid village of Fao, Mac, myself, R and eventually T and D, met up in a very friendly bar, for lunchtime refreshments.

Walking through the village, we came upon an English phone box, standing incongruously, in a Plaza; its function was to provide the opportunity to get a ” Carimbou ” – a stamp – for our Pilgrim Passports.

I had stopped in this village before, on my solo Camino, four years ago, and was pleased to note nothing had developed to alter its charm; the Fire Station, still had its doors open and you could view its two , proudly preserved vintage engines. The Bombeiros in rural Portugal , are often manned by trained volunteers and they are usually a centre of social importance to the community.

Apulia Town, where Mac and I stayed overnight, is a slightly shambolic, seaside resort, but dignified by a magnificent beach.

Next day, took us to Viano de Castelo and the Camino took on a different character, being mainly inland, with some stiff hills and at times, precarious footing, where the path was strewn with stones, overlying, granite boulders. Walking poles, essential for any Camino, came into their own, here. This isolated spot shows a poetic celebration of an ancient Magnolia.

The approach to Viano is most appealing as you can see the Santuaria de Santa Luizia,on a hill above the city and its lengthy bridge across the Lima River, designed by Eiffel, of Parisian fame.

I had been on holiday in Viana,for a few days last summer, in the campervan and I was pleased to be back in such an interesting and attractive place. What made it even more desirable was our “digs” in a century old, architect restored house, overlooking the main square. The owner, proudly gave us a tour of the imaginatively decorated rooms and when he said some of the smaller features were from IKEA, we laughed and said we were sure he would be forgiven. Should mention that walks, so far, are averaging 20 km, per day.

The views over the river, with a glass of Cruzcampo, were made all the more atmospheric, with the moon rising over the scene.

Caminha was the next day’s destination and a short, two stop ride Northwards, on a local train of about 8 km, made the walk more manageable. Reducing it to 21 km. As in previous days, the weather was sunny, warm, with a breeze, at times. We walked through Villa Praia de Ancora, where we had some lunch; I was first here 35 years ago! Lovely little seaside resort .

Caminha has a main square which is always a focus for visitors, plus a white,sandy beach.

We were due to cross the estuary the following morning at 09.00. However, we were informed that because of a low tide, the first crosssin would not be unti 12.00. Our leader, C, found an alternative  means of crossing,striking a deal with a local fisherman. At just after 09.00, we were ready to embark ; our boat was slightly smaller than the tide bound ferry! Galicia was at hand.

Mac was slightly damp, but not his spirits, as we safely disembarked. Most astonishingly, the fisherman even had a stamp, for our Pilgrim Passports! Can you work out which it is?