Camino Portuguese de la Costa….First days.

7 Sep

The first morning’s departure was scheduled from Lavra, a long the Atlantic coast , from Matosinhos. Our” leader” had given us the name of a bar / restaurant , where we were to rendezvous with the other pelegrinos, in our group. Fiasco….Despite the best efforts of our taxi driver and a very helpful local, it was concluded that  no such place existed! So, Mac and I decided to walk towards our destination for that day, Povoa de Varzim, hoping that we might come across them st some point; after all, there was only one way you can go. We walked through a time warp fishing village and along boardwalks, constructed to protect the sand dunes. The weather was beautiful, the sea breezes refreshing and the o dan was a constant companion. We soon crossed a lovely iron bridge across a river , when Mac’s phone rang….

One of the group informed us that they had all managed to meet, despite the bar now having a complete makeover and new name….😡 This did not come as a complete surprise to us, after all, Nuff said. We continued apace and were impressed by the boardwalk extensions, so much further than when I walked this route, solo, four years ago. And it was not too long before we could see Povoa in the distance; a popular seaside resort, now, but it’s origins are steeped in both fishing and exploration.

There are reminders all along the way and I was really pleased to come upon St Andre, where I had enjoyed a much needed coffee and water, four years ago – it had grown from a small kiosk.

Further artistic representations informed us as we drew steadily near Povoa, which despite its ” seaside” image, had a pleasant, bustling atmosphere. The seafood was excellent, too.
Despite the Casinos and numerous restaurants, nearby,traditional harvesting was still being undertaken- seaweed for fertiliser, raked up into ” hay bales “. And a spot of weekend fishing on deserted beaches.
I must not forget to include Vial da Conde, which is an interesting town, en route. Lovely harbour and a place where you can divert to the ” internal” Portuguese Caminho. We came across an amazing World War II memorial and unchanged scenes on the Oceanside.

Another reminder of Vila da Conde’s ancient heritage is the resplendent aqueduct.


A lot to take in, I know, and I am having to write this up in Spain,latterly, as Portugal, for all its numerous wonderful features, is not great for WiFi ! Still does not stop it being , for me, the most civilised country, I have ever had the privilege of visiting.

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