ensuitepilgrim's Blog

One day on, from  returning from Santiago de Compostela, we are on a Sutton Coldfield Ramblers’ Sunday Excursion to the Cotswolds. Differences in the weather, terrain and company, plus time to put together a blog about the walk in quintessential, English countryside .” From Cheltenham this ramble reaches the highest point on the Common via Southam and Huddlestone’s Table. The coach is in Winchcombe so it’s the Winchcombe Way and the Cotswold Way on good, gently descending paths all afternoon.” It was also billed as a ” GWR” walk – Gloucester and Warwickshire Railway – Or as I read it…Great Western Railway…or” God s Own Railway”! Anyway, for me, the sight of a steam engine in full blow, is always approaching ” heavenly”. The ” sheds”, as we used to call them, are always interesting ; engines,  even diesel locomotives, rolling stock always fill me with curiosity.

09.55. Five minutes to go to departure and you can clearly recognise  who is dressed for the occasion and  will be blowing the whistle. All these railways depend on enthusiastic volunteers – preserving or heritage – many thanks to them.

The train took us along a mainly, single line. I was further able to relive my early, teenagetrain-spotting days, by being able to not only open a window, but to lean out and take photos. Had it been in the train-spotting days, it would have been to take the number of any fast approaching engine, on the other line. Either way, a speck of coal grit, in the eye,  was an inevitable consequence. 

We passed through a couple of Halts and stopped briefly at a station. Floral decoration was a feature and emphasised the pride taken in both the restoration and maintenance of the stations; one of which was now a private house. Would presume the owners are also enthusiasts ; I should love to live there.

What do you think “S W ” is instructing the train driver?

We alighted at Cheltenham Racecourse Station, divided into a choice from two walks; the”a” walk being the longer of the two. Both would finish in Winchcombe.

A sign that always brings ” relief” to Ramblers, anywhere, even on railway stations…..

Colin, our irrepressible chairperson and today’s walk leader, pointed upwards, across a still, somewhat misty landscape, at a flat hill – that’s where we are heading – a bit of a hill – we all knew what that meant.

Not only that, we were to forgo the beloved ” coffee break” and pause for lunch, only when we were atop it, became most had enjoyed refreshments, either at the station cafe, or on the train – bacon rolls were very popular. Given recent amounts of rain, it was unsurprising to have slip and slither occasionally, en route, but the summit was made in good time and the air was clearing, too. 

There was even  time for a swing, along the way.

A famous landmark was reached, where we coincided, with the other group – Belas Kapp Long Barrow – over 5000 years old.

The groups made their way downwards towards Winchcombe, passing the only Five Star Hotel, in Gloucestershire and Sydeley Castle could be espied nearby.

Winchcombe’s famous Abbey, in the foreground and on to Rosie’ s Pattiserie, where a warm welcome awaited. Perfect end to a great day day out; very different to the landscapes, I had enjoyed over the previous fortnight and the rain stayed away, until we we were well on our way, in the coach Höme. 

https://youtu.be/uc4Hz4WXD6M Heavy Load by Free.

A slow burner song, with great bass…like my rucksack burning up my energy, this time;

 but no more. Still got a Camino in me, maybe the last time.

Friday, 15 th September, 2017, spent in leisurely style in the old town. Entering by Porta Camino, close to the Alameda Park, it was very quiet, compared to the crowds of yesterday evening. Shop shutters grunting upwards, street cleaners pushing their wheelie bins and a few bar staff wiping down tables. It was only as we approached the Cathedral that it became more populous, chiefly, as a result of Cruise –  tour parties, lining up to see St James’ famous church….by 10.30, they were omnipresent. They are bussed in from Vigo, an hour or so away up the motorway. Complimentary shells were worn, naively,on their bellies. As they dispersed, the scene resumed some normality,with pelegrinos arriving from all sides of the Praza do Obradoiro – a young group threw themselves down on the ground and did twenty press-ups in unison, bicigrinos lifted their cycles  above their heads, like cup winners and young women performed  a similar feat with their rucksacks.

As I contemplated the scaffolding which covers the Cathedral, I wondered why the authorities allowed it to become so weather worn and delapidated, considering the € millions, tourists and pilgrims spend, annually, in the city – it is going to be a very long time before the Cathedral can show its face to the world again. I walked around to the  Hospederia San Martin Pinario, a wonderful place to stay, if like me, you can’ t afford the Parador; sat on the wall , listening to Galician Pipes lamenting their way up, from a nearby gateway and watched an impromptu, rehearsal of a dance routine. This was more typical, in terms of music and spectacle, of the city.

I then reunited with Mac, after some mandatory T-Shirt and bracelet shopping, to wander down the cobbled streets, to a favourite cafe ,The BISTRO – Earl Grey for me and a taste of Mac’s chocolate cake with Grand Marnier – these Caminos are hell, aren’t they?

I hope you like Mac’s bracelets….they were quite an outlay ! Despite the maddening cruise groups, the inevitable crassness of some shops, the city is still a majestic and captivating destination; none better than at the end of a Camino, however long,or short. It is only possible to give a glimpse of the beguiling nature of Santiago. So here is a mere, scintilla , including the famous ” Pilgrim’s Mass”, with its crowd pulling, flying Thurible.. There are far more fulsome and erudite guides to be found on the Net and in a plethora of literature. Actually, I find Wikipedia more than sufficiently informative!

And two posters to close this Blog and this Camino.

In the end, we walked a “Buen Camino”; may you, one day, too.

This is another, favourite quotation of mine; never a Camino without these experiences…

“The paradox: there can be no pilgrimage without a destination, but the destination is also not the real point of the endeavor. Not the destination, but the willingness to wander in pursuit characterizes pilgrimage. Willingness: to hear the tales along the way, to make the casual choices of travel, to acquiesce even to boredom. That’s pilgrimage — a mind full of journey.”Patricia Hampl Favorite Report

This powerful sculpture is in Padron. There are a number of highly significant sights and scenarios, in this understated place; usually more renowned for its Peppers than its significance in the history of the Camino.

The legendary Padron, the alleged landing  of  St James’ body,   

the hill  where the Apostle preached ….and much more.

The final etape of the Camino ; the final stages, entering the city, are uninspiring, but the rewards are great.

Back to basics, and mea culpa if I repeat myself, Santiago, for all its powerful resonance as a pilgrim city, is still a tourist destination and it is best to be aware of st least two things. Accommodation outside the Old City is better value and so are the restaurants. Our accommodation is a ten minute walk from there, in a state of the art, private Albergue…..not quite “Ensuite”, but for € 16.00 a night, unbeatable value – a single room, each. Just a few photos to give a picture of what an Albergue could be…

We took a quick brunch at a sociable cafe, nearby; Mac ingratiating himself with the staff! Never fails to get a smile…

Then, up to the city, which although I have visited it often, is always as enticing  and buoyant as ever. Whether you want baubles or fountains,  frescoes or colonnades, you will find them, here.

The Cathedral is smothered in scaffolding, which rather detracts from the feelings you may have anticipated before arrival; here are two photos ….before and present day ….we haven’ got an ” after”, yet. Top down, it will be magnificent, I think.

Well, certainly the Top part- restored to a pristine condition . Other pelegrinos lie down and bask in the sunshine, having placed their feet on a famous stone mark. Some of them have been on the Camino for 800 – 1000 KM; six weeks, or more.

We then made our way to the Pilgrim Office, to queue patiently, for our Compostelas – the certicate of completion, in Latin, and if you wish a certificate, in Spanish, marking the distance you have walked. This is a photo of the former.

The queue is well organised and the time goes by chatting to other pelegrinos. There are a number of desks where your Pilgrim credencial or passport is scrutinised; don’t forget to buy your cardboard tube to keep your compostela safe and unruffled. Mac ready to go for it….the Compostela, that is.

Afterwards, we had a beer at a nearby bar, sittiing in the sunshine, chatting to people we had encountered over the last fortnight ; everyone eager to share stories and experiences, in their exhilaration at reaching their journey’s end. 

No apologies for finishing with another favourite, tomorrow,  our last day, here, I hope it is as good.

“Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much….” Ralph Waldo Emerson, Country Life, 1858

Shortish hop to Villanova; only 10 KM, by quiet back, country lanes. Vines and Maize predominantly….and a good, few dogs, thankfully tethered. We did pass a church, with an interesting altar stone, on the outside – weathered shell motifs. D and Mac were observing this from beyond the church wall….it was a relief to them when we moved on!

There had been some drizzle, this morning, but it was still warm. Pausing at this shell- covered house, we were glad to get out of our ponchos – very clammy.
We passed a quiet evening in the hotel and the next day, made our way down to the port, to board a boat which would take us up the Ria de Arousa to Pontesecures, and a bridge crossing in to Padron. The mayor was there to see us off – he had been with us at the Adega – he has been mayor for twenty years and unlike our mayors, his role is far from nominal, as he is elected and in these parts, that means 100 000 potential voters to be wooed. We didn’t realise, until we disembarked, that he had paid all our fares, for the trip… he gets my vote!

After we had posed for more photos, we set off under the sailsmanship of a man whose principal role was in sub- aqua, it seemed. He proved to be a great guide on the trip, his name, appropriately, was Santiago. I love working harbours and hereabouts the Mussel industry dominates the Ria. 

These are the second biggest Mussel beds in the world, there are nearly three thousand of these platforms, all worked by families – a lot of the harvest is exported to France and Italy. The boats have a small crane, with which to lift the cages of mussels – these are taken from anything like, five hundred ” strings”, dangling down from the platforms.

There are several nature reserves, both on the banks of the river and on islands – the warden of one of major habitats came out  and wished us a good voyage; friendly wave from a fisherman, too.

There are numerous stone crosses, situated on both banks, along the way, dating from the early 19 th century; placed to guide pelegrinos towards Padron. In those days, it was the preferred way to travel. We preferred it too…. a 27 km boat journey, rather than a 28 KM walk.
Lots of birdlife, Cormorants and Royal Herons abound. Nearing our destination, as the river narrowed, two more historical points of interest – the remains of an ancient fort, strategically place on the narrowest neck of the river and two replica Viking ships.
More recently, Nestle have set up a big plant, opposite a huge milling foundry.
We docked at Pontesecures – a Roman site at one time – Pontesecures means ” Caesar’s Bridge”, which now carries ” legions” of pelegrinos up from Caldas de Rei, on the orthodox Portuguese routes, into Padron. It was time to say farewell to our navigator and carry on across that very bridge.

This is the end of the Spiritual Variante, which will doubtless grow in popularity, in much the same way as  the Portuguese routes.
A memorable detour.

https://youtu.be/HI8cToXmS1s ” The Pilgrim Song” by Cecilia Samaritan 

Just  when I thought my rucksack carrying days were over, I received an e-Mail from TUITRANS, the company I had used for the previous four days, which dismayed me, as the cost suggested  for the final, four days had gone up by 250%! They don’t have any competition on this section, I.e the Spanish Correos, so their prices are exorbitant. This did not spoil our meal, together with B, of our party, in the majestic Comedor, in the Monastery. We hoped we would meet up with her, for the boat trip, on Wednesday.
Monday commenced in Misty, damp conditions and after breakfast in a nearby bar, Mac and I set off; our first stopping point to be the delightful fishing village of Combarro, just three Km away. I was once more carrying my rucksack and it had not been a problem – four walking days without helped – as we were entering the village, Mac’s phone went and after ignoring two calls, he finally answered. It was our leader,C, telling us wait on the main st. as the Chair of the local Peregrinos’ confraternite had been in touch, and had offered to transfer us by minibus over the mountain, ahead , as sections could be dangerous.

Within minutes we were aboard the minibus after being introduced to Celestinio , the president of The Portuguese Costa confraternite; he guided us around Combarro and I splashed out on the local “pin”.

 He  was to be our host and guide for most of the day…..and night. Someone whose knowledge and enthusiasm for his beloved Camino was inexhaustible

THE CAMINO PROVIDES
We were never more relieved to be aboard, as we climbed up the mountain.I think it would have finished us off. But there we were, being transported over it , rucksacks and all. There was still some cloud over the Ria, as the sun gradually made a bashful appearance. We walked along the top for 600 metres, to another viewpoint.

At that point we were reminded it was time for a coffee, which we enjoyed, along with Empanadas and samples of Galician style stew,at a mountain top golf course….An incongruous, but unique setting.

Looking over the driver’s shoulder, on the way down.

The tour continued with a stop at a Cistercian Monastery, where we were warmly greeted.

….then a reality check….some walking to do 11 KM along the Rua de Pedras a de Agua, downhill, following a stream and over some stony pathways, reputedly one of the most peaceful and picturesque stages on all the Camino.
 We enjoyed this walk, bypassing the ruins of many small water mills – Muinos- as we went. After a stop for a ” Clara”, we made it to our base for the night  – all five of us at Hostal Santa Baia, very new and most comfortable. We only had an hour or so,to showers etc; before our host and guide would be arriving to collect us and take us to a small reception at a local Adega,renowned for its Albariño wine.We were whisked away and were greeted at the Adega Eidos…the setting alone took my breath away, let alone the stage of the art wine making production, the vineyards and the views. We sampled three distinctive Albariños, together with samples of seafood – the crab pate was muy bien – as were the wines and the hospitality. 

The evening was not yet complete. 

After being given ” Goody Bags” and posing for a group photograph, ( note the caps ) we went on ,with a tour around the Ria and I was impressed with both the beaches and the settings, along this magical coastline. There was plenty of Holiday development, but nothing out of place. We stopped at Lanzarda, which had a Miradour, ancient fort and chapel, set alongside a Necropolis, which ahead been partially explored; apparently it was a huge town in its day, with much yet to be excavated. The sun was setting and Mac spotted Dolphins, frisking about in the Bay.

After a further tour of the coast, including a very exclusive looking resort, Isla de Toxa, we arrived at a restaurant , for dinner, at about 10.30 pm.

We sang ” Happy Birthday” to D, one of our number; the locals applauded.

Back to base for midnight; more shattered than after a 25 KM walk !

THE CAMINO PROVIDED INDEED…
https://youtu.be/p1GkR54wQaM ” Looking Back Over My Shoulder” – Mike and the Mechanics.

Saturday evening was enjoyably prolonged, after dinner in Santa Apostol,by a conversation with the host , who is a Knight of St James. His English was good and he told us of his devotion and affection for the Coastal Route – not in the least sanctimonious, or pompous – largesse and good humour. He treated us to samples of Orujo, a Galician specialty liqueur, pointing out the differences between the ” herbas”, the “aguardiente” and the ” crema” – didn’t fancy the latter as he said it was akin to Bailey’s !😝

Sunday morning dawned brightly and after a light breakfast, we set off for Pontevedra and the Deviation of the Variante Spirtual. We walked with two ladies from Colorado, USA! We had met them a couple of days, previously; Chris & Kris. Real enthusiasts, they were greatly taken by this little shrine, en route.

We soon reached Arcade, which I remembered from my solo Camino, because it was drizzling that day and I had my photo taken by a couple of Portuguese ladies and I reciprocated – that photo is on the front blog page. I got Mac to take one, in the sunshine, this time. The bridge is famous in Galician and Spanish history of Independence, because Napoleon was defeated here.

After crossing the Sampoio Bridge, we had coffee and complimentary Churros, in the company of two guides from a local company, whose job was to take Turigrinos from place to place, en route. The lady gave Mac some impromptu lessons in Spanish pronunciation, warning him that mispronouncing ” Arousa” – one of our destinations, would lead to a misconception about a Russian woman!

We walked on and before long came to the Capel de Santa Maria and obtained a “sello” for our pilgrim passport – you need at least two per day , in the last 100KM in Galicia – made a change from bars and hotels.

All along the Way, there were fields, gardens rich with grapes, tomatoes, quinces and oranges – ” King Harvest Has Surely Come ” – https://youtu.be/5tWR3F4oQN4 – The Band, from THE GENUINE ROCK OF AGES Album, came to mind.

We were nearing the outskirts of Pontevedra, a city of 80 .000 inhabitants and a famous pilgrimage centre on the route to Santiago – the suburbs are far from endearing and you would not think that its historic centre could be such a contrast – but you could describe the approaches to Santiago, similarly. There were  two images that cheered us up.

And so into Pontevedra, where I had stayed twice before – it is a great city – its most famous Camino church is shaped as a shell. The old streets and remains are really well preserved, as is the bridge which  takes  you Northwards , towards both Santiago and the Variante Spirituale.

We though there was a Camino Exam coming up, at this point…

Revision notes, please!

After two KM, the Way goes along a Roman Road, towards the turn left to the Variante Spirituale, with its distinctive waymarks. This Variante has only been supported since 2012.

An easy stroll took us to the Monastery of St John de Poio, with views of the Ria de Pontevedra – the heart of the Rias Baixas. There is a wonderful cloister, ribbed  vaults, and an amazing mosaic, based   on the Camino.

and also, the longest “horreo ” in Galicia , if not Spain – these are grain stores – symbolic of Galicia.

This region makes the best Albariño wine; the Monastery makes its own – € 6.00 a bottle in its bar!

And now for dinner…

The only things I shan’t miss about Portugal are the cobblestones. Climbing up around Mount Ecla, on a smooth surface was a bonus. Made the mistake of not stopping for a coffee; it would be a good few kilometres before we reached Oia and the next bar. We had plenty of water, so despite the sunshine, it was fine and the Camino was very rewarding with its harbour, mountain &  sea views, plus good signage.

 Typical of the Galician countryside are the ” horreos”, which adorn most farms, small holdings and even some gardens. Some are decorated, too. It’s unusual to get a look inside, though and to see how the sweetcorn is stored, mainly for animal feed.
Stopped for refreshment at Oia and a view of its Monastery. Plus some earlier signage.
Had an overnight stay near Nigran, never did quite find out where, exactly! Not a state of the art pool, friendly place, though.

Then an early start for Vigo; always a challenge to get in there on the Camino. Often through forests. Biggest city in Galicia, in a haphazard expansion, to its high and low bases. We still stopped to smell the flowers…

A few other photos signifying the Camino and an impromptu dance, when we came upon a village fiesta – How could I refuse a lady? Mac, took the photos and declined the opportunity – never danced with my boots on before!

” Encantada”…..” Encantado” Try saying that with your sunglasses in your mouth!

https://youtu.be/_b-kzi5PEqs – no competition – Galician Folk Dancing

We followed the yellow fleches as far as a bus stop, by coincidence, the exactly same one, that I came to, four years ago. There was no debate…on to the number 17 and a € 1.40 ride into the centre….a bargain and a life saver! Getting into Vigo is not for the faint hearted, but once you are there, it’s a lively, friendly place, waterside development, hills and fine squares.

This morning, we walked steadily up Via Principe, to a famous, modern church, Our Lady of the Picos, from where we could pick up the yellow arrows to guide us out of Vigo and on to Redondela. This is what the church would have looked like, before it was covered in scaffolding, as it was, today. The Picos are a famous mountain range in Northern Spain.

We followed a ridgeway  along the Camino, The Senda da Augua ,that had been developed for walkers and cyclists. It’s important to carry plenty of water as there are no cafes/ bars, for 10 KM. There are occasional Fuentes .It has a good surface and there are extensive views of The Vigo Ria, with its mussel and oyster beds and an impressive bridge.

On reaching Redondela, after 17 KM, we passed several, more trendy places to have a beer and bocadillo at Bar Central, where the warm welcome and value for money belt its humble frontage. We met up with the couple of German ladies, we shared the motor boat with, across the river . They were having problems, trying to get a bus to Pontevedra, Saturday service, etc; So we asked a local policeman if he could help. Just opposite is a the Albergue, in a restored 16th Century building, where I had the misfortune to spend a night, four years ago. I’m not the ” Ensuite Pilgrim” for nothing…

Redondela is famous for its railway viaducts, built in the 19 th century, to transport goods and Albergue apart, it’s an interesting place to wander around; it’s also where the interior, Portuguese Camino meets our Portuguese de la Costa.

It was an additional 5 KM to our hotel, Santo Apostolo, on the Ria; with a couple of high ascents and decent. Some pelegrinos take a taxi….we didn’t…but I can ow see why you might! There was an impromptu Shell Shrine at the top. I think it is to commemorate the death by accident, of a pilgrim cyclist. There were a lot of  weekend  warriors on the trail, today. 

This is our hotel, the owner and the bar, where I am writing this, despite an awful Spanish “soap”, on the TV.

Menu Pelegrino tonight – hopefully something fishy.

We heard that one of our ” group “,R, from Ireland has had to go to hospital in Santiago, by car, as his leg has swollen mysteriously and needs an expert diagnosis. Such a shame , we only met a couple of times, but we got along well and he came from a teaching background ; same sense of humour and left field views. We have sent our best wishes, via our leader. Hopefully, we’ll be able to catch up with him in S de C. Mac is in contact , by phone,with some of the group, though we have not seen them, for a couple of days. My feet have been great; pride of place to the boots!

Four day ago, I made the decision to send in my rucksack by a local carrier Tuitrans. I was experiencing shoulder ache and my right knee felt vulnerable, with the 10kg+ I was carrying; it was spoiling my enjoyment of the Camino. You have to listen to your body. I would arrange luggage transfer, for any future Caminos. It’s probably an age thing, too!

We had yet to meet up with all seven members of this loosely described group – we had been on the same flight with three members, C , D and his wife,T. As we had only been given the stages for each day, not the hotels, it would only be by coincidence that some of us stayed in the same place. The two other members had flown in from Ireland, R and a lady, B.It would be on the outskirts of a lovely little village, Fao, that we first encountered R, a lovely guy, with GSOH, by chance in a cafe, where we met up with D and T. C and B we occasionally walked with during one or two of the days. Of course, on any Camino, everyone walks at their own pace,so it was probably more essential, to develop a group dynamic, that evenings provided a chance to meet up. To date,a week on, this has happened once. I don’t know what the other ” members” felt about this – for me, it was inconsequential, I.e” Que Sera, Sera.”Mac, my regular walking compadre, found it frustrating at times. 
We had , as is the norm, met up with several other pelegrinos, from USA, Ireland and even Yorkshire,plus a group of three ladies, from Spain, who were both funny and friendly company.

Still, on with the Camino. 

Walking towards Esposende, provided more boardwalks alongside the sea, but one seemingly, never- ending slog through a forest of the ubiquitous, Eucalyptus trees. At the end of which, being slightly ahead of Mac, I found myself, inland, by the beautiful parish church of Apulia. I enquired of a couple, nearby, if there was a bar/ cafe nearby- no, they were some way off, back by the beach. In no time at all, from nowhere, they provided me with two ice cold bottles of water. After a faltering, but sympathetic conversation, in French, revived, I walked on…..the Camino provides.

On eventually arriving at the aforesaid village of Fao, Mac, myself, R and eventually T and D, met up in a very friendly bar, for lunchtime refreshments.

Walking through the village, we came upon an English phone box, standing incongruously, in a Plaza; its function was to provide the opportunity to get a ” Carimbou ” – a stamp – for our Pilgrim Passports.

I had stopped in this village before, on my solo Camino, four years ago, and was pleased to note nothing had developed to alter its charm; the Fire Station, still had its doors open and you could view its two , proudly preserved vintage engines. The Bombeiros in rural Portugal , are often manned by trained volunteers and they are usually a centre of social importance to the community.

Apulia Town, where Mac and I stayed overnight, is a slightly shambolic, seaside resort, but dignified by a magnificent beach.

Next day, took us to Viano de Castelo and the Camino took on a different character, being mainly inland, with some stiff hills and at times, precarious footing, where the path was strewn with stones, overlying, granite boulders. Walking poles, essential for any Camino, came into their own, here. This isolated spot shows a poetic celebration of an ancient Magnolia.

The approach to Viano is most appealing as you can see the Santuaria de Santa Luizia,on a hill above the city and its lengthy bridge across the Lima River, designed by Eiffel, of Parisian fame.

I had been on holiday in Viana,for a few days last summer, in the campervan and I was pleased to be back in such an interesting and attractive place. What made it even more desirable was our “digs” in a century old, architect restored house, overlooking the main square. The owner, proudly gave us a tour of the imaginatively decorated rooms and when he said some of the smaller features were from IKEA, we laughed and said we were sure he would be forgiven. Should mention that walks, so far, are averaging 20 km, per day.

The views over the river, with a glass of Cruzcampo, were made all the more atmospheric, with the moon rising over the scene.

Caminha was the next day’s destination and a short, two stop ride Northwards, on a local train of about 8 km, made the walk more manageable. Reducing it to 21 km. As in previous days, the weather was sunny, warm, with a breeze, at times. We walked through Villa Praia de Ancora, where we had some lunch; I was first here 35 years ago! Lovely little seaside resort .

Caminha has a main square which is always a focus for visitors, plus a white,sandy beach.

We were due to cross the estuary the following morning at 09.00. However, we were informed that because of a low tide, the first crosssin would not be unti 12.00. Our leader, C, found an alternative  means of crossing,striking a deal with a local fisherman. At just after 09.00, we were ready to embark ; our boat was slightly smaller than the tide bound ferry! Galicia was at hand.

Mac was slightly damp, but not his spirits, as we safely disembarked. Most astonishingly, the fisherman even had a stamp, for our Pilgrim Passports! Can you work out which it is?

The first morning’s departure was scheduled from Lavra, a long the Atlantic coast , from Matosinhos. Our” leader” had given us the name of a bar / restaurant , where we were to rendezvous with the other pelegrinos, in our group. Fiasco….Despite the best efforts of our taxi driver and a very helpful local, it was concluded that  no such place existed! So, Mac and I decided to walk towards our destination for that day, Povoa de Varzim, hoping that we might come across them st some point; after all, there was only one way you can go. We walked through a time warp fishing village and along boardwalks, constructed to protect the sand dunes. The weather was beautiful, the sea breezes refreshing and the o dan was a constant companion. We soon crossed a lovely iron bridge across a river , when Mac’s phone rang….

One of the group informed us that they had all managed to meet, despite the bar now having a complete makeover and new name….😡 This did not come as a complete surprise to us, after all, Nuff said. We continued apace and were impressed by the boardwalk extensions, so much further than when I walked this route, solo, four years ago. And it was not too long before we could see Povoa in the distance; a popular seaside resort, now, but it’s origins are steeped in both fishing and exploration.

There are reminders all along the way and I was really pleased to come upon St Andre, where I had enjoyed a much needed coffee and water, four years ago – it had grown from a small kiosk.

Further artistic representations informed us as we drew steadily near Povoa, which despite its ” seaside” image, had a pleasant, bustling atmosphere. The seafood was excellent, too.
Despite the Casinos and numerous restaurants, nearby,traditional harvesting was still being undertaken- seaweed for fertiliser, raked up into ” hay bales “. And a spot of weekend fishing on deserted beaches.
I must not forget to include Vial da Conde, which is an interesting town, en route. Lovely harbour and a place where you can divert to the ” internal” Portuguese Caminho. We came across an amazing World War II memorial and unchanged scenes on the Oceanside.

Another reminder of Vila da Conde’s ancient heritage is the resplendent aqueduct.

A lot to take in, I know, and I am having to write this up in Spain,latterly, as Portugal, for all its numerous wonderful features, is not great for WiFi ! Still does not stop it being , for me, the most civilised country, I have ever had the privilege of visiting.