Byzantine Fort City of Mystras.  

Looking up from the ruined domestic buildings of the lower city, you can see the active Monastery of Pantanassa further up the mountain in the the Upper City of Mystras, Greece. It’s truly amazing to find a city that retains its character from one specific age. The abandoned Byzantine city of Mystras in the mountains just above Sparta in the Southern Peloponnese, is one such frozen city. You can walk through the ruined streets and largely intact religious buildings of this UNESCO World Heritage Site and be right back in 1350 AD.

Mystras castle and city walls. Mystras is built on the side of a mountain topped with a sturdy and imposing Castle. Parts of the city walls are still visible.

Mystras began in 1249 with the construction of the Castle on the summit of Mt. Taygetos by the Frankish ruler William II Villehardounin. The Byzantine city grew as it consolidated local power through the 13th and 14th century. The walled city contained several religious communities and churches, domestic and commercial areas and a large palace for the regional lord. After the fall of Constantinople, Mystras was absorbed into the Turkish empire in 1460 and was then traded several more times between the Venetians, Turks and Greeks. The city remained inhabited until the 1826 when it was abandoned for the more accessible, modern city of Sparta.

Partial view from the path to the Upper city of Mystras Lower City and the Metropolis (or cathedral) begun in the 13th century.

Below the Castle on Mt. Taygetos, the ruins of Mystras are divided into an Upper City and Lower City. The churches are Byzantine in design but constructed with a mix of stone blocks, stone pieces and brick enhancing the rustic look of the ruined city. The architecture is quite sophisticated; the Metropolis (cathedral) is three stories tall with upper viewing galleries. The churches have elegant domes, arches and are all unique in design.


Several of the churches and monasteries still contain brightly painted frescoes. The most impressive paintings are in the Hodegetria showing detailed scenes from the Life of Christ throughout the side aisles. Some interior marble paneling survives suggesting the church was richly decorated when constructed.

 Mystras is an exhausting day trip but well worth the effort. You will be walking and climbing  a lot to see the entire city! I could have done with my walking poles.

 In addition to the impressive painted churches, there are numerous small churches and manor houses in the Lower Town . Lastly the views of Sparta and the valley from the Castle are incredible.