ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Hotel Meson de Erosa – we really rated this hotel for value,amiability and good food. Plus a good TV service ! 

We had pleased ourselves, the previous evening, by crosssing the road from the hotel, to suss out the Route to the Camino ; across the road was a sign, on the pathway, with two arrows, one directing you via Verin and the other towards Laza, which is 14 km beyond Campobecceros, our destination. Congratulating ourselves on this reassurance, we made our way back, for a ” sharpener ” and Menu Del Dia, in the hotel restaurant. La cena was served between 21.00 – 00.00. Our waiter found the WBA v Chelsea game for us😊and we enjoyed a good meal of a small appetiser, Calda Gallego , Chargrilled belly pork and chips,or chipirones, , plus Postres ( couldn’t manage one, but Mac made up for it ! ) and wine. As residents we had a reduction to € 10.00 ! Gave our excellent waiter a good tip and went to sleep, after I mastered the retraction of the electric blinds in our room.

At 07.15, it was dry outside, so we were really uplifted by the prospect of a good walk. We saw the ” diddy ” caravans, described to us, yesterday, by the guy from Stockport.

 We set off on our pre- researched route and made good progress to a tiny Pueblo, Erosa. It was here, that our plans began to unravel. My Google Earth route took us through the village on a very minor road, however, a local came towards us, waving his hands and directed us to a path to the right. We took it; we should not have been so subservient!

We walked up a considerable incline, on a good, dry path , at the bottom of which we approached a rushing stream……for a moment, it brought back the experience we had last year, of wading across a flooded waterway. Thankfully, there was a primitive, but passable stone bridge, hidden from immediate view,to the left.

After which, we climbed again and traversed a sierra – brush, gorse, Heather and scrub, pine trees and endless views of the hills, in every direction; no habitation,whatsoever. If ” Remoteness” is your thing, this is the area to make for- Galicia at its purest. After 2 1/2 hours walking, on what had to said, were good, dry surfaces, considering three days’ rain had fallen, we reached another tiny pueblo . 

Question – where the hell are we? 

Waterbreak and a search on the phone led us to believe that we needed to stay on this small, blacktop road….. which would have been the correct decision, had we walked in the right direction – there were no signs and nobody to ask. We walked for another 9 km until we found ourselves at a road junction, with signposts…relieved until we saw that Campobecceros was 21Km away ! About as far as we had walked thus far.

We sat in a bus stop and mournfully considered our options, after cursing the guy who had sent us off piste. The village of San Lourenzo was signposted, across the nearby motorway and which was on the Camino, as we passed authentic Galician marker stones, albeit they were pointing towards Verin, which was not the branch we wanted and which was 25 Km away.
San Lorenzo, district of A Gudina.

We hoped to find a bar and call for a taxi. A figure appeared at the first house, in the village. I approached and asked in my best Spanish, was there a bar?

No. The lady in question was then joined by a younger couple and between them, they ushered us into a large storeroom cum kitchen, where we were given strong coffee and 🍪, whilst we relayed our woeful tale. Meantime, a taxi was summoned by phone.

In this short time, we met Concepcion ( call me Conche), her niece and husband, Paulo and Verona. The couple lived in Ourense. She worked in Insurance and he was an ambulance driver. Charming, helpful people. 

The Camino provides again.

I noticed a hessian sack hanging from one of the eaves and was curious to know what were the contents ? 

Walnuts from their own trees. 

Then our sojourn was ended by the arrival of the taxi and as we exchanged kisses on both cheeks, Conche handed me a bag of walnuts, wishing us ” Buen Camino” as we departed; warmed by their generosity and helpfulness.

The rain began to fall as we departed on a tortuous trip across the hilltops – T G we didn’t have to walk it!

A final twist in the day’s tale. Campobecceros was one of the places I had found impossible to reserve accommodation, however the 18 bunk Albergue had good reviews, as did a nearby restaurant, Casa Nunez. 

Campobecceros.

The ” Ensuitepilgrim” had to capitulate in this case.

So, Mac and I grabbed two lower bunks, near the loo and by a wall.

Although we avoid them, wherever possible , we know that being near to the ground and toilet/ shower are plus points , in an albergue! 

We were OK on both accounts.

We reacquainted ourselves with two ladies who had been at Casa Irene, a Swiss and a German – both with good GSOH. Shook hands with Stephen from Kansas and John, from Ireland and met up with a young pelegrina from Quebec, Maude. It would seem that these would be our only overnight companions, making the Albergue experience relatively painless, at € 8.00 each.

Bar Rosario,for a bowl of hearty soup, country bread, rice pudding again😝and a bottle of wine, for €4.00 each. Mac snatched a siesta and I took a shot of the countryside, from behind the Albergue. The other side of this medieval village has been ripped apart by the AVE construction.

The only wifi available is in Casa Nunez – dinner destination sorted.

Track for the day -” Can’t Find My Way Home”, Steve Winwood

​Pope Francis and pilgrims from around the world are flocking to a Catholic shrine town in Portugal to honour two poor, illiterate shepherd children whose claims of visions of the Virgin Mary 100 years ago marked one of the most important events of the 20th-century Catholic Church.Francis arrives Friday to celebrate the centenary of the apparitions and canonize the children. He is hoping the message of peace that they reported 100 years ago, when Europe was in the throes of World War I, will resonate with the Catholic faithful today.For days now, church groups, families and individuals have made their way to Fatima, about 150 kilometres north of Lisbon, some on their knees in prayer. Carrying candles, rosaries and roses, they have made their way to the statue dedicated to Our Lady of Fatima or tossed wax body parts — ears, hearts, limbs — into a huge fire to pray for healing.

I am  thinking of changing the name of my ” ensuitepilgrim” website , to something more lucrative, as I came across this news item on the BBC News:

“A Portuguese man called Carlos Gil is known as “rent-a-pilgrim”, AFP news agency reports. He charges €2,500 (£2,110; $2,717) to walk to Fatima and worship there on behalf of a Catholic who cannot make the trip.” 

So, if there is anyone out there, who is prevented from walking to Santiago de Compostela, I will light a candle for you in the Cathedral, for a donation, payable to :“RENT – A – CANDLE ” Paypal accepted.

As for today, well it began disappointingly, after a night of strong winds and heavy rain. Our host was adamant that the Camino would be treacherous in places and that we should take the way by road….on looking out of the Casa Rural windows, the view was severely limited by fog and rain. 

Fortunately, I had lit a fire in the lounge, and we were all able to dry out our boots and other unmentionables and during breakfast, two other pelegrinos wanted to share a short taxi ride to La Gudina, which we took,together.

Any hope for an improvement in conditions was dashed , as we left the Province of Zamora, to enter Galicia, into the Province of Ourense, as fog and rain dominated the skyline.

Looking at the above map, we entered by the south east. Our hotel is superb, which is some consolation and very good value. It provides both a restaurant and cafeteria , which serves the nearby A- 52 motorway. Lunch was an enormous slice of Tortilla, stuffed with Pulpo and fresh bread, plus a beer -€ 3.50 a head; beats  Watford Gap, everytime.

Found ourselves sat next to a guy from Southport, whose job was to collect caravans from Portugal  and deliver them to the UK, on the back of a transporter, via Bilbao. Like me, he finds driving in Spain and Portugal a breeze,  compared to 3rd World UK.
Today’s track has to be ” Have You Ever Seen the Rain?” + complimentary Spanish subtitles…

Left Puebla, after coffee and tostada with olive oil and tomato, in Cafe Espana, in the drizzle. Three guys left 10 minutes before us and turned left, outside the cafe . They must know what they’re doing….later we’ll go that way, despite the lack of yellow fleches.I made a miscalculation – it poured and we should have taken a taxi. However, we carried on, in our all-encompassing ponchos, upwards, along a minor road. Three Km on, we were relieved to see a faded, yellow fleche ( arrow ) ; we soldiered on and in a typically semi deserted village, under a balcony, we studied the map – we were on the road to Portugal!

The poor signage in this part of Zamora Province, is mainly due to the construction of the AVE high speed train line to La Coruna, from Madrid.

We realised that at some point soon, we should have to turn left( along the AVE line ? ) , or we should soon be in Braganza!

The Camino Provides…..another km on and there stood a fully erected Camino to Santiago signpost – pointing right. Gracias a dios, or whomsoever.

Eventually, after a long climb, on mercifully still passable tracks, we crossed the AVE line and came to the Carretera N525; after 12 km, in the rain, we reached Requejo and Hotel Maite, where we were given a warm welcome and excellent coffee.

Dilemma – the next leg takes you over the Pardonelo Pass, the highest point on the entire Via de la Plata / Sanabres, nearly 1400 metres – the wind was picking up, too; the wettest, coldest conditions I had ever experienced in 🇪🇸.

Fifteen minutes after we had settled into the warmth of the cafe, the three guys mentioned earlier , arrived and went to the adjacent Albergue, which was filling up, according to Mac, who got our Credencials stamped there.
Glad we hadn’t followed them too closely.

Chatting to pelegrinos, most had given up the idea of walking over the pass and were hunkering down for the night there, in the hope of more clement weather; forecasts gave little hope that would be the case. Also, even after making the top, you still had a 7km descent, in wet and slippy conditions to master. We didn’t fancy our chances in those conditions…pragmatism ?

TAXI ! 

Alvaro , of Taxi Lubian, was summoned by the very helpful lady behind the bar and after a while, we were ensconced in the back of his Insignia, en route to our pre-booked accommodation at La Casa de Irene, a casa rural, in Lubia.

A pretty setting , it would have been glorious in sunny weather. 

However, we were just relieved to cast off our saturated boots and warm up. Hunger pangs began to bite and so we decided to walk, in a break in the rain, to the nearest restaurant, 600 metres up , on the main road, have a long Spanish lunch and talk about future walking plans, D & E. Three other pelegrinos were set on the same idea . As we closed the door , another four , male pilgrims came through the gate , looking very muddy and on closer examination, one of them had a bloodied face and knees; he had obviously had a fall. 

I was reminded of a quote, from a while back.
“Be not inhospitable to strangers, lest they be angels in disguise”
The owner, Irene, had left and they had not made a reservation, but we got the door open,sat the injured man down in shelter, whist Mac & I got warm water and some wipes, from our room. ( the other guests just went on their way to the restaurant ). These guys were French, so it was possible to talk, easily enough to the injured pilgrim, who apologised for smoking in between cleaning up,  the now dried, white mud from his face and beard, taking extra care around his upper lip and nose – he would need stitches, there.

Meanwhile,arrangements were being made for him to be taken to the restaurant , where we were bound, which acts as a kind of impromptu ” Centro de Salud” 🆘. In true French style he had a couple of Restorative glasses of red wine, whilst waiting to be taken on.

We enjoyed a very hearty € 9.00 Menu Del Dia; I even had a Postres, as one of them was arroz con leche,i.e. Rice pudding. Not the most obvious setting, to be reminded of my mum’s unrivalled ,tour de force, 60 years ago, in Small Heath, Birmingham, UK.

 Taking a more leisurely stroll back through this quirky pueblo, pausing to take some photos.

Unsurprisingly , there were plenty of fountains, ancient dwellings and ….hungry chickens.

So, today’ s track has to be The Pretenders’ ” Angel of the Morning” – https://youtu.be/LhGqLF-kfLs

PS Decided I should have to come out, as I was caught wearing socks with sandals, German style. Better than wet boots….

The Sanabria Region, is characterised by its rivers, valleys, sierras and mountains, not forgetting its Parque Natural Del Lago De Sanabria”. How come I had never even heard of it, before? Proves again how rich Spain is , in its variety of regions and history. Only 25 km, from Braganza, in Northern Portugal and adjacent to Galicia, for where we are bound over the next two days. 

Its position high on a bend protected by the confluence of the rivers Tera and Castro, made Puebla de Sanabria a strategic site and the scene of a great many battles throughout history.

The town has been recognized as a Historic-Artistic Site. It still preserves most of the walls which once protected the city. Its magnificent castle dates from the second half of the 15th century and is the archetype of a medieval defensive structure; it stands at a height of 960 metres on a wide piece of flat land on top of a hill occupied by the town, it has a regular plan and in the centre it has an enormous keep, which is made up of several storeys and protected by a retractable bridge. Close by the castle is the parish church of Nuestra Señora del Azogue, from the late 12th century. Inside it contains a 13th-century font with figures carved on the front. The town also has a great many ancestral homes and mansions decorated with old coats of arms dotted among its narrow streets, such as the City Hall from the 15th century, which is located in the main square. In addition to having a beautiful historic quarter, this town also enjoys a privileged natural setting, since its township is located near the Lake Sanabria Nature Park. Its calm body of water covers 368 hectares and measures 55 metres in depth, making it the biggest glacial lake in Spain.

A tour of this medieval town was a must and it was onwards and upwards to the Castillo, where € 2.00 gained us entry into an a carefully constructed tour, with a sympathetic eye to detail, including audio-visual features and a proudly preserved latrine – apparently, a luxury at the time. The castle is in an impregnable position and the views do not disappoint, even on a cloudy day.

This is an area where the Iberian Wolf roams and ther e is a great deal,of info. about wildlife in the area .
Needless to say , the pelegrino features, too, along with a knight in arms on the watch.
For  whom the Bell Tolls ?

 Well it was time for coffee, in a boutique pousada called hotel and spa las treixas; even Pelegrinos need some TLC, at times.

The Town has many interesting, little corners and the balconies are strongly featured, along with local artefacts.

The convoy of 24 or more Pelegrinos we encountered earlier , has moved on and we only spied one, today. We have met a higher than usual number of Aussies, some Americans, French , Polish , Irish and Slovakians , not forgetting our German amigos and Stephen. Plan D,tomorrow,  weather permitting, is to walk to  Reqejo. Then a climb to the highest point on the entire Camino, Mt, Pardonelo ; we are due in Lubian , at Casa de Irene, tomorrow night. Entering then some of the most remote areas on the Camino. 

I share this beautiful quotation by Carlos Castaneda from The Teachings of Don Juan: A Yaqui Way of Knowledge. “For me there is only the traveling on paths that have heart, on any path that may have heart, and the only worthwhile challenge is to traverse its full length–and there I travel looking, looking breathlessly.” 

With the exception of the German guys and Stephen, I have not really mentioned our fellow travellers. With only two exceptions, they have all been a pleasure to met and eat  with along the Way. GSOH and a variety of stories, characterised them all, not to mention a gentle, self- deprecation. The only two exceptions , an Australian/ Kiwi couple, who were just a little competitive ; i.e. Getting somewhere first, be it a destination, albergue, or just the bar, seemed to be “raison d’etre”, and in the case of the male of the species, “smartarse” syndrome. But this Blog will finish with a quotation from Ireland.

According to John O’Donahue, an accomplished Irish poet, philosopher and Catholic priest, “…You are joined in an ancient and eternal union with humanity that cuts across all barriers of time, convention, philosophy and definition. When you are blessed with an anam cara, the Irish believe, you have arrived at that most sacred place: home.”

The diference between average temperatures and forecasts , is the actual weather! According to the T V, in the papers and on the Web, we were due some unseasonable weather and so plans B & C were made. We set off towards Mombuey, where we could stop over if necessary. Having made 10 km in good time, we only paused at Hotel Ruta, for coffee and a look at the paper’s weather page,” Tormentos, Ffluvia and Granizos ” were said to be hitting  Galicia presently., P G missing us in Castille/ Leon.

Meanwhile, it was decided that we should walk on towards Palacios de Sanabre and seek accommodation there. A friendly bar owner telephoned the advertised apartmentos, on our behalf; ” Chiuso”, therefore , Plan C came into being as we set off for Puebla de Sanabria, thankfully, in mild,dry weather. After resting in the porch of a remote church, we could see Puebla in the Tera valley.

 Plan C meant that we should be a day early; we found Hostal Raices, where we were due to arrive the next day, hoping to get in for an extra night. I mounted the stone staircase, rang the bell and was greeted by a somewhat , half- crazed, one- toothed senora major, wearing FCB Barcelona slippers ( she did have some other clothes on ); I was not able to get anywhere, but in the meantime, Mac had spotted our two German amigos and they led us to a super place, for the night. Mac was suitably enthroned , there, in Don Carlos V Hotel.

Later, we sampled some of the ” cervezas artesanas”, which took their toll. It was to be our last night with them and Stephen, who the next morning, made an emotional farewell, but not before he had disclosed to us more of his family history, as a descendant of the Courtauld family, famous for Polar exploration and a dynasty, in itself. We took the day very easily, exploring the town and a 1.2 km walk to its famous railway station, to investigate the possibility of a train , onwards, should this cataclysmic weather arrive. About eight trains a day arrive and depart from here, notwithstanding its grandiose appearance, none of which would be much use to us.

 Plan D was to be discussed , next day, 10 th May, meanwhile, we had a good €12.00 dinner and reminisced about Stephen, who, during our last walk, together, had insisted we sang our school song to St Philip – ” This is the Saint of Gentleness and Kindness”-  echoing over the Sierras. We also sang an improvised version of ” To Be a Pilgrim”;  Maddy Prior’s version just shaded ours…

https://youtu.be/cOPW-9mSw8Y

 On the Sanabres, as with any other Camino ,meeting people, is usually interesting and a welcome distraction from the kms, underfoot.
A peaceful,if unremarkable walk; a couple of stiff hills. Relatively overcast, but good walking conditions. We had not progressed very far, before meeting up with our German friends, Helmut and Jorg. Both “senior” to us and steady walkers. 

Almost, immediately, a gaunt figure came alongside, wearing the most unlikely walking apparel – a white jacket, over a black pullover, with tailored black trousers and gentleman’s walking boots. A 30 L rucksack was the only concession to orthodox walking gear and in his right hand, a black bin liner. We were confirming our direction , when we were implored to alleviate the load in the liner – ” I’ve bought far too much food..”

I soon fell into step with Stephen, after a km, or so and realised I was in the company of a most interesting man. His cultured voice reminded you of Bill Nighy and his range of interests were vast. I discovered he was an Old Etonian – ” hated the place” and that opinion extended to those running the country. His step father was a famous , wartime education minister. These two interesting points of information were given in the most self deprecating, throw away style; as were the facts that he had known Leonard Cheshire and worked with Mother Teresa. 

We stopped for a bag break and we were showered with bananas , chocolate and water – at least his load was lightened. We discussed religion, education and politics and our views, for the most part were aligned and we were both grateful for mutual enlightenment on different issues. The kms slipped by and we arrived at a cafe ( thankfully, as you always are on this Camino ) and after a couple of coffees, we realised that Stephen had vanished as suddenly as his appearance…..

Mac and I continued our stage, reaching Casa Anita in good time,still bemused by the “disappearance ” of our new amigo.

Much later in the afternoon, Stephen arrived at the Casa, informing us that he had found a mass being celebrated , which he had enjoyed and had also had a rest in the sun! Fortunately, there was still room for him and he was present at the communal meal, that evening. 

Santa Croya is only separated from its neighbour, Santa Marta , by the River Tera. They are both very tranquil spots,with lots of recreational opportunities.
The latter is Höme to a beautiful Romanesque church and museum, which we were able to visit; at the rear of the church is the oldest,surviving statue of St James, the universal symbol of the Camino.

The morning of the 7 th. saw us bound for Rionegre Del Puente. Walking, at first alongside a ” canal” and on through woodlands.

We rounded the edge of an Embalse, in the direction of Villarreal de Farfon, yet another semi-deserted pueblo. I had read that a couple of ex-missionaries, from South Africa, had renovated an old Finca, to make a small albergue. After a long slog we were pleased to come upon their welcoming sign.
We rang a bell and were given a warm welcome, coffee and biscuits , by Craig. He told us of his thirty years’plus work in India and Zambia, setting up schools, for the poor and mainly shod less children. He had walked a Camino and became inspired to build this refuge from nothing, with his own hands and support of his wife and two daughters. The accommodation and refreshments are all provided on a ” donativo” basis. It was a truly Christian experience to talk with him.
We reached Rionegro Del Puente and found an apartment for the three of us, that being the only alternative to the Albergue! So we remained Ensuite and then spent time on the terrace of Bar Palacios, in the sunshine. The Town has some old bodegas and a fine church square.

Later, before our ” menu Pelegrino “, Stephen began sketching Jorg, Helmut and Mac, with a biro on table napkins. Thankfully, I escaped as the first courses arrived…..and the wine.

Is it the universality of the human experience that is speaking through the work of a truly rounded individual? Well, Stephen would continue to surprise us…

As mentioned in the previous blog, we were at a Camino crossroads, so it was most important to take the correct Camino, the Sanabres, out of  Granja de Moreruela.

We had a good night’s sleep in the Casa Rural,Tico Quico; some interesting artefacts, none more so than the dining room table.

Puente Quintos, over the River Tera, was a highlight en route. The terrain changing to valleys and Oak forests, with hill ranges in the distance. Rain ahead, we managed to get our ponchos on, after scrambling across the AVE line ( not electrified yet! ). The blocks are lying along the track in readiness for the next stage, in its development.

We were booked in at El Roble, hotel, restaurant and bar – very pelegrino friendly – €25.00 a head, including dinner. Ensuite, of course.

Storks are emblematic in Castillo-Leon and are often found on church towers and telegraph gantries.

These two ,old goats ( I know what you’re thinking! ) were shuffling along….sound familiar?

“Undo that verse,
Take away the rhyme,

The meter, the cadence

And even the idea itself.

Adventure the words,

And if anything remains,

that

It will be poetry. ”

– Leon Felipe

His statue dominates the pretty town square. An anti facist poet, born here and led  a colourful life. Apparently, when Che Guavara was arrested, he had seven of Felipe’s poems in his pocket.
I AM LEAVING BECAUSE THE EARTH IS NO LONGER MINE

Because my feet are tired,

My eyes are blind,

My mouth parched

And my body docile and light,

Ready to enter the air.

I am leaving because there are no paths left for me on earth.

I emerged from water, I have lived in blood

And now the Wind awaits to sweep me to the sun…

I emerged from the sea…and I will expire in the flames.

Mac and I had a good, if somewhat complicated journey , to Zamora, from Sutton Coldfield. Margaret, ( Mac’s wife ) took us to Digbeth coach station, at 00.30 – muchas gracias. Coach to Stansted Airport arrived early, in plenty of time to check in the rucksacks and enjoy a bacon buttie. The flight landed early at Asturias airport, enabling us to transfer by airport bus to Oviedo. Where we were in good time to take 3 1/2 hour coach journey to Zamora, from where , we were to recommence our Camino. 

The logistics tallied and we were relieved to get our room at Hotel Rey Don Sancho, in plenty of time to relax before a €9.00 menu at a nearby restaurant,whist watching the European cup game between Real Madrid and Athletico.

The following morning dawned brightly and with a little, cooling breeze, made for good walking conditions en route to Montamarta, our first stop on this 377 km journey to Santiago de Compostela. Along farm tracks, for the most part,we had 19 km to walk, in theory. The outskirts of Zamora, unlike its historic centre, are unprepossessing and we were glad to eventually make Roales de Pan, for our coffee stop. 

We got a “sello” for our Credencials, at the nearby Ayuntiamento and walked on, passing a bemusing set of Papier-mâché sculptures, in a garden.

We were booked in at El Tio Bartolo, the owners of which, also managed the local supermarket and restaurant . We met fellow Pelegrinos, from France, Australia and by remarkable coincidence,Helmut, a German guy we had dinner with , just over year ago, in Zamora. They all made for good company, as we basked in the sunshine, on the lovely patio, drying our washing and drinking beer; we later met up for dinner and enjoyed a super Menu Pelegrino of 3 courses, including more wine than we could finish.

These two amicable ladies are Odette and  Monique; we tempted them to some Tinto Verano, which they enjoyed. I couldn’ t find out the name of the deer, who watched our gathering , doubtless with envy!

The next day, we were off by 08 . 10, to walk to Granja de Moreruela -25 km and no services for 12 km, so we took plenty of water. We passed close by the Emita de la Virgen Del Castillo and the dried up bed of the Ricabayo reservoir. We then passed the ruins of the Castrotofate Castle, which was an important mediaeval place, venue of the Knights of St James’ Order and the old capital of the kingdom of Leon in 1176. Again, the weather was warm, but not as sunny as yesterday. There is the threat of rain, tomorrow, apparently.

We eventually got coffee in Fontanillas de Castro, moving on via Riego Del Camino to Our base for the night, casa Del Tico Quico. Granja is a Camino crossroads – go northwards to Astorga ,to join the Camino Frances, or, as in our case, westwards towards Ourense , on the Camino Sanabres.

After a beer, in the local bar, we returned to Tico Quico, to enjoy the garden, before returning later, for another , we hope, bargain dinner – no choice, as it is the only restaurant in town! 

Today’s classic Camino track had to be ” One More Cup of Coffee Before I Go”, by Roger McGuin and Calexico.
https://youtu.be/nOZrTkBghjo. From the movie “I’m Not There”; we’re here, in Leon- Castille, taking delight in these quirky, unspoilt pueblos .