Wednesday 17 th feast Day in Galicia, to celebrate its language, ” Gallego”, and unique culture. Ourense has a birthright of famous writers, like Carlos Casares, who worked hard in this area…and many others, too comprehensive to include here. The city was very quiet, not much sign of celebration . However, it was good to walk around and go up to the cathedral, where we took a self guided tour. Overwhelming in parts, an ancient place of worship,going back to the sixth century, though the existing basilica, is much later.
“San Martino” was constructed during the middle ages under the rule of King Alfonso III, but was originally foundered in 572 AD and occupies thesite of an older ” Suevian” basilica. It combines a variety of architectural and Masonic styles, a result of the involvement of several notable designers from the 12th century onwards. One of its features, the “Portico del Paraiso” (door of paradise) is very similar to the that found on Santiago’s great cathedral, the “Portico de la Gloria” (see photo below). Also of note is the magnificent sixteenth century “Capilla del Santo Cristo” (Christ’s chapel) which is in the Baroque style. Other parts of this building are alternatively Gothic, Neoclassical, Renaissance and Romanesque and the 13th century clock tower is another dominant feature.
The cathedral of “San Martino” was built in the shape of a cross and has three naives separated by pillars in the shape of crucifixes with double arches. On its longest span, the cathedral is 84 metres in length. “San Martino’s” altar was consecrated in 1188 AD and the building was granted “National monument” status in 1931.Of particular interest is the main chapel which holds a large “reredos”, depicting scenes of Jesus and the virgin dating from the early sixteenth century. This cathedral is claimed to be strongly influence by the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela from which several of its features can be identified. It is also an important passing point for us pilgrims (perigrins) on the Camino to Santiago de Compostela that travels via Ourense.
We then took the tourist train from the Plaza Mayor towards the Thermal Springs, over the Roman Bridge , for €0.85.
My sister , Penny, arrived from the UK and we had a good evening, initially meeting up with pelegrinos, we knew well and later Tapas – Bar Samuel was particularly good.
Thursday morning we set off from Hotel Mino, after our favourite breakfast of toast, dribbled with olive oil and covered with cold, fresh tomato pulp…..you could have had jam, too. Penny had arranged to use the Correos ( Spanish post office ), mochilla transfer system, for both her and my rucksacks. MAC demurred. It certainly helped to be rucksack free, on the climb out of Ourense, after crossing that splendid bridge – you can get a glimpse of Mac, to the left.
Passing Ourense railway station, I was stopped in my tracks , by this superb engine, which is placed , en face.
It was a three km climb, the stiffest yet, after exiting the pedestrian bridge, under the railway.
“Looking Back Over My Shoulder ” https://youtu.be/p1GkR54wQaM, by Mike and the Mechanics, at our 837 metre climb up Canedo Hill. Very new and informative Camino board, at the crest; disappointingly, the nearby restaurant was closed.
Logging work on the Camino – endless acres of Pine and Oak trees.
12 km onwards and we needed a break – the Camino provides – a most unlikely pelegrinos welcome post, run by Cesar, an ex-European, long distance coach driver. Quite a character and his little refuge is filled and embellished, inside and out, with Camino artefacts and memorabilia. He made us coffee, dispensed Höme made cake and even twisted my arm ( not very hard ), to share some of his own wine, made without additives of any kind – delicious. No prices, you make a ” donativo”, which we did, after posing for photos.
We posed for another photo in the village of Cea, famous for its bread making and an unspoilt pueblo. Across the Plaza Major, where a young couple hailed Penny- ” Are you Penelope ?”- the owners of the beautifully restored casa Manoso, where we are staying, tonight. The owner’s handsome six month old son was presented to us, in the equally handsome dining area, where we take breakfast, tomorrow. Now for a ” Sharpener”, dinner, hopefully with some of that famous bread.
ensuitepilgrim's Blog 
Great photos. Tell Mac to keep going