This blog will try to convey more of the amazing countryside and sadly deserted villages,rather than the vicissitudes, which, apart from a couple of stiff climbs, there were none.
We enjoyed a peaceful night in the Albergue, once Mac had got to grips with sleeving his pillow.
The morning was greyish, but dry; the air warmer. Not a soul abroad, notwithstanding it being a Sunday; you don’t encounter too many people on any day. Just by the cafe, I noticed a monument, erected to immortalise the contribution of Campobecceros ‘s inhabitants, to the construction of the railway- 1927 – 1957. This transformed the lives of these villagers, whose previous existence was mainly as charcoal smelters. Ironically, 90 years on, another transformation is taking place, as the high speed AVE line is running though the edge of the village and a tunnel is being bored, close by.
The first photograph shows the scar that this ” progress” is making on the landscape.
We climbed out of this village, whose inhabitants have a fond regard for Pelegrinos, for nearly 1000 metres and came into another Pueblo, Porto Camba,still going uphill, signs of dereliction apparent.
We then came across a Camino waymark, with a erected as a memorial to those who died on the Way – not, I must hasten to add , solely for this ETAPE.
A more cheerful sight – a festoonment of Roses.
By now, we were in need of refreshment, but most guidebooks state that there is nothing, until Laza. To our surprise, in the tiny Pueblo of As Elias,we came across a somewhat makeshift, self- service point for Pelegrinos. It stated that it relied solely on donations. We enjoyed coffee from a flask and stamped our Credencials, whilst reading all the impromptu messages scrawled on the timber facade.
A long descent, amongst beautiful scenery followed,as we made our way to Laza, in the valley of the Tamega river. 6 Km to go.
Walking poles essential for these sections.
We clocked in to our previously reserved accommodation, Pension Blanco Conde, met the owner, a cheerful, welcoming lady. € 44.00 a double,with breakfast and use of washing machine and dryer.
We walked into Laza, rather bigger than our last few stopovers, it had two bars! Boccadillo and a beer at La Picota, recommended by our host, after which we discovered an information point, run by the local Camino confraterntity.
There was also an interesting waymark stone, Joan Miro style, that took my eye.
Returning to the Pension, I noticed three calves , in a pen, just below our room.
The owner later found me in the communal kitchen and offered me a coffee.
I had noticed a box of tea bags; my first cup, since leaving home! I inadvertently stretched my shoulder, which led to the owner encouraging me to join in an impromptu session of Yoga! I really needed the tea after that…
Two maps and motifs on the entrance to the Pension.
Antonio Machado.
Using the Way, as a metaphor for life
“Travellers there are no paths, the paths are made by walking….”
Coincidentally, the owner’s son, told Mac, that he looked after 75 beehives, in different locations, hereabouts; collected 70 Kg of honey, last year , most of which was sold to different outlets in Spain. Machado again,
” I dreamt – marvellous error! – that I had a beehive, here in my heart . And the golden bees were making white combs and sweet honey from my past failures.”
Today’s track ” Honey Bee” – Lucinda Williams,
Buenas Noches .
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Mac. Good luck with the pillow