6th-7th May…The Stranger 

 On the Sanabres, as with any other Camino ,meeting people, is usually interesting and a welcome distraction from the kms, underfoot.
A peaceful,if unremarkable walk; a couple of stiff hills. Relatively overcast, but good walking conditions. We had not progressed very far, before meeting up with our German friends, Helmut and Jorg. Both “senior” to us and steady walkers. 

Almost, immediately, a gaunt figure came alongside, wearing the most unlikely walking apparel – a white jacket, over a black pullover, with tailored black trousers and gentleman’s walking boots. A 30 L rucksack was the only concession to orthodox walking gear and in his right hand, a black bin liner. We were confirming our direction , when we were implored to alleviate the load in the liner – ” I’ve bought far too much food..”

I soon fell into step with Stephen, after a km, or so and realised I was in the company of a most interesting man. His cultured voice reminded you of Bill Nighy and his range of interests were vast. I discovered he was an Old Etonian – ” hated the place” and that opinion extended to those running the country. His step father was a famous , wartime education minister. These two interesting points of information were given in the most self deprecating, throw away style; as were the facts that he had known Leonard Cheshire and worked with Mother Teresa. 

We stopped for a bag break and we were showered with bananas , chocolate and water – at least his load was lightened. We discussed religion, education and politics and our views, for the most part were aligned and we were both grateful for mutual enlightenment on different issues. The kms slipped by and we arrived at a cafe ( thankfully, as you always are on this Camino ) and after a couple of coffees, we realised that Stephen had vanished as suddenly as his appearance…..

Mac and I continued our stage, reaching Casa Anita in good time,still bemused by the “disappearance ” of our new amigo.

Much later in the afternoon, Stephen arrived at the Casa, informing us that he had found a mass being celebrated , which he had enjoyed and had also had a rest in the sun! Fortunately, there was still room for him and he was present at the communal meal, that evening. 

Santa Croya is only separated from its neighbour, Santa Marta , by the River Tera. They are both very tranquil spots,with lots of recreational opportunities.
The latter is Höme to a beautiful Romanesque church and museum, which we were able to visit; at the rear of the church is the oldest,surviving statue of St James, the universal symbol of the Camino.

The morning of the 7 th. saw us bound for Rionegre Del Puente. Walking, at first alongside a ” canal” and on through woodlands.

We rounded the edge of an Embalse, in the direction of Villarreal de Farfon, yet another semi-deserted pueblo. I had read that a couple of ex-missionaries, from South Africa, had renovated an old Finca, to make a small albergue. After a long slog we were pleased to come upon their welcoming sign.
We rang a bell and were given a warm welcome, coffee and biscuits , by Craig. He told us of his thirty years’plus work in India and Zambia, setting up schools, for the poor and mainly shod less children. He had walked a Camino and became inspired to build this refuge from nothing, with his own hands and support of his wife and two daughters. The accommodation and refreshments are all provided on a ” donativo” basis. It was a truly Christian experience to talk with him.
We reached Rionegro Del Puente and found an apartment for the three of us, that being the only alternative to the Albergue! So we remained Ensuite and then spent time on the terrace of Bar Palacios, in the sunshine. The Town has some old bodegas and a fine church square.

Later, before our ” menu Pelegrino “, Stephen began sketching Jorg, Helmut and Mac, with a biro on table napkins. Thankfully, I escaped as the first courses arrived…..and the wine.

Is it the universality of the human experience that is speaking through the work of a truly rounded individual? Well, Stephen would continue to surprise us…