Mac and I had a good, if somewhat complicated journey , to Zamora, from Sutton Coldfield. Margaret, ( Mac’s wife ) took us to Digbeth coach station, at 00.30 – muchas gracias. Coach to Stansted Airport arrived early, in plenty of time to check in the rucksacks and enjoy a bacon buttie. The flight landed early at Asturias airport, enabling us to transfer by airport bus to Oviedo. Where we were in good time to take 3 1/2 hour coach journey to Zamora, from where , we were to recommence our Camino.
The logistics tallied and we were relieved to get our room at Hotel Rey Don Sancho, in plenty of time to relax before a €9.00 menu at a nearby restaurant,whist watching the European cup game between Real Madrid and Athletico.
The following morning dawned brightly and with a little, cooling breeze, made for good walking conditions en route to Montamarta, our first stop on this 377 km journey to Santiago de Compostela. Along farm tracks, for the most part,we had 19 km to walk, in theory. The outskirts of Zamora, unlike its historic centre, are unprepossessing and we were glad to eventually make Roales de Pan, for our coffee stop.
We got a “sello” for our Credencials, at the nearby Ayuntiamento and walked on, passing a bemusing set of Papier-mâché sculptures, in a garden.
We were booked in at El Tio Bartolo, the owners of which, also managed the local supermarket and restaurant . We met fellow Pelegrinos, from France, Australia and by remarkable coincidence,Helmut, a German guy we had dinner with , just over year ago, in Zamora. They all made for good company, as we basked in the sunshine, on the lovely patio, drying our washing and drinking beer; we later met up for dinner and enjoyed a super Menu Pelegrino of 3 courses, including more wine than we could finish.
These two amicable ladies are Odette and Monique; we tempted them to some Tinto Verano, which they enjoyed. I couldn’ t find out the name of the deer, who watched our gathering , doubtless with envy!
The next day, we were off by 08 . 10, to walk to Granja de Moreruela -25 km and no services for 12 km, so we took plenty of water. We passed close by the Emita de la Virgen Del Castillo and the dried up bed of the Ricabayo reservoir. We then passed the ruins of the Castrotofate Castle, which was an important mediaeval place, venue of the Knights of St James’ Order and the old capital of the kingdom of Leon in 1176. Again, the weather was warm, but not as sunny as yesterday. There is the threat of rain, tomorrow, apparently.
We eventually got coffee in Fontanillas de Castro, moving on via Riego Del Camino to Our base for the night, casa Del Tico Quico. Granja is a Camino crossroads – go northwards to Astorga ,to join the Camino Frances, or, as in our case, westwards towards Ourense , on the Camino Sanabres.
After a beer, in the local bar, we returned to Tico Quico, to enjoy the garden, before returning later, for another , we hope, bargain dinner – no choice, as it is the only restaurant in town!
Today’s classic Camino track had to be ” One More Cup of Coffee Before I Go”, by Roger McGuin and Calexico.
https://youtu.be/nOZrTkBghjo. From the movie “I’m Not There”; we’re here, in Leon- Castille, taking delight in these quirky, unspoilt pueblos .
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