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Our final stage turned out to be 25 KM, as our accommodation was situated on the far side of the city. Once again, the Correos had delivered our Morchillas; for € 20 each, this was both a great service and real value. The route in to S de C changes as you leave the countryside.
The Camino passed by the runway of Santiago Airport,the path took us through the hamlet of San Paio where there is a restaurant and a small hotel, and then through to the village of Lavacolla.
In ancient times when pilgrims were close to the end of their pilgrimage it was customary to stop at a stream which flowed through the village now known as Lavacolla, to wash themselves before making their final journey down to the cathedral. The name is said to derive from the pilgrims taking particular attention in washing their backsides because literally translated Lavacolla means washing the tail.
Around the village there are a number of café/bars, hostels and hotels.
The Camino passes the Iglesia de Benaval which is dedicated to a local man called Juan Pourón who during some local unrest was sentenced to death by the local magistrates. Just as he was about to be hung he shouted out to the Virgen de Belen (Virgin of Bethlehem) “ven e valme” which roughly translated means come and save me. The Virgin heard his plea and sent him straight to heaven thus preventing a painful death through hanging.
The Camino continues down some quiet roads and down through the village of Vilamaior where there is a casa rural and an old pazo converted into a hotel. Continuing on Past a couple of television stations belonging to Television Galicia as well as for the main Spanish channel Television de España. Just a little further on is San Marcos where there are a couple of café/bars.
About 1 kilometre from the village of San Marcos was a resting place before the final short trek into Santiago de Compostela, the extremely large pilgrim complex of Monte do Gozo. It is tradition that if you are walking in a group the first of your group to arrive at Monte do Gozo will be designated a pilgrim King (or Queen if it happens to be a woman).
The name Monte do Gozo means mount of joy. After the pilgrims had finished their wash at Lavacolla they would ascend to the top of the hill which looked out over the beautiful town of Santiago de Compostela and the spires of the cathedral in the distance. The joy came from what the pilgrim felt at seeing his journey’s end. In the complex ! there is a statue of two pilgrims looking out toward the cathedral. There is also a modern sculpture that was put up to commemorate the visit of Pope John Paul II visit in 1993. He performed a mass here to thousands of people.
In ancient times, the tradition was that pilgrims would walk the last 4.5 kilometre stretch barefoot, however I wouldn’t recommend it.
From the albergue ,the path Went past the Capilla de San Marcos where there is a little picnic area. The path continues downhill passing a house with various creatures made from concrete in its garden. From here the path continues down some steps and over a bridge across the motorway. We then entered the area known as San Lázaro, one of Santiago’s suburbs where there are a number of café/bars and other shops as well as a tourist information office . After crossing the motorway we walked down Rúa do Valiño and past the Iglesia de San Lázaro. Continuing down Rúa do Valiño the road soon becomes Barrio das Fontiñas and then at the main junction take the Barrio de los Concheiros.
Matt and I posed for a photo , at the base of a statue of a knight, whose role to protect Pilgrims.
The path went through a small square or plaza where there is a cross to Homo Sancto and then down Rúa San Pedro and then to Porta do Camiño. This is the traditional entry point for pilgrims into the old town of Santiago de Compostela.
The path now went back down the Rúa das Casas Reales, across the Plaza de Parga and the Plaza de Animas, then left down to the Plaza Cervantes and right down Calle Azabachería to the Praza da Immaculada, taking some steps down past the side of the cathedral and down a walkway under the Arco del Obispo which will took us into the Plaza del Obradoiro and the front of the cathedral.
We decided to get our Compostelas in the evening, also a certificate of the distance you have walked is available for€ 3.00. Both are excellent souvenirs.
You are entitled to a Compostela as long as you’ve completed at least 100 kilometres of the Camino and you have had your pilgrim passport or credencial stamped along the way. This credencial is proof of where you have been. If you have undertaken the Camino for spiritual or religious reasons you will be given the traditional Compostela.
Going back to the Plaza del Obradoiro We admired the 15th century Hostal de los Reyes Católicos. This now very grand parador hotel was once a pilgrim hostal founded by the catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella and is regarded as one of the oldest hotels not only in Spain but the whole world.
There is so much to see in Santiago de Compostela, it really does have one of the most stunning old towns , of any city I’ve ever been to. Not only has it got a truly impressive cathedral , but there are a large number of other historic buildings worth visiting.
In the Praza do Obradoiro there is the 18th century Pazo de Raxoi built for Archbishop Raxoi by the French engineer Charles Lemaur. It is now used as the main council offices and some of the local government departments of the Xunta de Galicia.
The Cathedral itself is vast covering around 10,000 square metres. It was originally consecrated in the very early 13th century, having been commission by Alfonso VI the king of Leon and Santiago’s first Archbishop Diego Gelmirez. The cathedral has been added to over the years, but the Portico de la Gloria designed by the sculptor Master Mateo was an original feature. The twin Baroque towers, the iconic symbol of the cathedral were added in the late 18th century. Apparently, taking 80 years to construct.
We spent time in the Museo de Pelegrinos, the Cathedral and the Abastos Market, plus wandering the enticingly interesting alleys and Travesias. As Penny said, you would need at least three days , to do the city any kind of justice. As a regular visitor, myself, I always discover a Praza , or monument, I had not noticed before. Both Penny and Matt commented on the special ” atmosphere”; not over commercialised, but were able to buy the inevitable T- shirts and Pins!
We enjoyed the spontaneous , musical performances , as we strolled about, ranging from a Galician pipe band, to a group of Portuguese lads, singing A Capella – better looking and better singers than Take That; incongruously enough, they finished their set with ” Swing Low, Sweet Chariot “.
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Santiago has many green spaces and we enjoyed a walk around the Alameda park, especially the Bougainvillea, and our two ornithologists were pleasantly surprised by some of the residents.
Penny and Matt’ s preparatory , training walks had proved effective and none of us were troubled by blisters, aches and pains ( thanks to Ibruprofen in my case ). I was really pleased that they enjoyed all the aspects of a Camino, the landscapes, the hamlets, wildlife, the unexpected, fellow Pelegrinos , the food and wine . Pretty happy with the weather, too. For myself, I was pleasantly surprised that the numbers on the Camino Frances section, though many, were not overwhelming and we were able to continue to enjoy quiet stretches along the way. I think my usual walking companion, Mac McConnell, would have enjoyed it too, were it not for the fact that he was battling storms in Italy, on the last leg of his journey to Rome, along the Francingena.
Finally, photos of my sister and brother, loving their first Camino; let’s hope it is the first of many.
“Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much….”
Setting off for O Pedrouzo, in the aforementioned rain was not too bad, as we were well protected and we walked under a lot of tree canopy, very common to trails in Galicia. The countryside , here, is never overwhelming, characterised as it is by forests and valleys, however, it is verdant and has a calming effect, together with tiny, sometimes semi- abandoned, hamlets, often with no apparent name; mysterious.
What matters most, in fact, is getting from one stage to the next !
I say “should “because Spanish bus websites are like Alice in Wonderland and it is very difficult to make your way through them. The good news is that the weather forecast is good and we should be able to enjoy walking the walls , for which the city is famous, not forgetting to collect our two ” sellos” – stamps in our Pilgrim Passports. In Galicia, to obtain a Credencial on completing your Camino, you must have two stamps per day, en route.
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