Tomar, the Templars’ Town

Good drive to here,yesterday. Left some misty weather behind as we got South of Porto. 35* ,but breezy. Tomar is on the Camino from Lisbon and is a lovely town, easily walked and enjoyed. There was a film set in the Praca de Republica, but it had gone by this morning, revealing what a gem it is ,with the beautiful church, dedicated to St John the Baptist.

Staying on the  Municipal Parque de Campismo, by the river Nabao; good place , only spoilt occasionally by the unsupervised screaming of bare- arsed infants, whose capacity to swear, from the age of 18 months, was most impressive. These ” itinerant es” , claim to come from Essex, though the accent is not one ever deployed by Ian Dury! I suppose there is an Essex link with the preferred evening wear of black dress, revealing pink bra straps . They all have the most impressive caravans and vehicles on the site. The men disappear early and were overheard this morning ” 1100 Euros.. Fatima ” – I don’t think they were selling rosary beads. Still, leaving such distractions aside, an informative and impressive morning was spent climbing up to the Castelo de Tomar and the adjoining Convento de Christo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The  Castle is a fine example of Templar architecture of great historic and cultural significance.

The castle was part of the defence system created by the Templar Knights to secure the border of the Christian Kingdom against the Moors and remained a major stronghold for nearly two centuries during the Middle Ages. Later it played a significant part in the New World explorations of the 15th Century, led by one of the Order’s most famous grand masters, Henry the Navigator.

The Convento de Cristo Tomar is one of the key points of interest within the castle walls and boasts a unique mix of architecture spanning some five centuries. This is a place where gothic, renaissance and Moorish architecture sit side by side and combine with breath-taking results. The famous round church, located behind the keep, also dates back to the late 12th Century and was modelled after the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. It is characterised by its domed roof and bell tower and is a major feature of the castle skyline. The views are breathtaking,too.

And….Henry the Navigator was one of the order’s most famous grand masters. The Prince devoted much of the Order’s finances to fund his 15th Century explorations, securing the Order’s place in the history books. It was also the location of the formation of the Iberian Union in 1581, when Philip II of Spain was also recognised as Philip I of Portugal. The Union lasted until 1640 and it was during this time that the aqueduct was built.

Also…Key sights of interest at the Convent include its majestic entrance; the beautiful murals and sculptures of the charola; the 16th Century Manueline nave; the eight cloisters; the ornate janela, or window; the cross of the Order of Christ; and the armillary sphere, emblem of King Manuel I and of Portugal itself.

Tomar is home to the oldest Synagogue in Portugal, restored from its use as a store, when the Jews were expelled from Tomar; there are now only two Jewish families, one of which runs the synagogue as a museum, supported by donations of artefacts, from around the world .

The river is a feature of the town and is a natural division between the old town in the west and newer development to the east.

It has been a very enjoyable two days in this, one of Portugal’s most historic cities. Final Super Bock in the Plaza de Republica, the back to grill some Chicken Piri Piri. Tomorrow, a 229 mile drive to the Algarve, aiming to arrive at  Quarteria by lunchtime.