Viana ….or is it Diana do Castelo?

Originally Diana do…dedicated by the Romans, this understated city has been a joy to visit; whether wandering through narrow lanes, or enjoying the Squares and monuments. I love ports, and V do C still has an important role, though not as great as its heyday. No tourist tat and appropriate , commercial development, means it retains its charm and attractiveness.

Human settlement in the region of Viana began during the Mesolithic era, from discoveries and archaeological excavations. Even around the Roman occupation the area was settled along the Mount of Santa Luzia.
The settlement of Viana da Foz do Lima, which it was called when King Afonso III of Portugal issued a foral (charter) on 18 July 1258, was a formalization of the 1253 Viana that the area was named.
In the 16th century, its port gained great importance as one of the entry-points for Portuguese explorers and traders, involved in the Portuguese discoveries. Many of the historical buildings originated during this period.
The prosperity that continued developed from the town’s role as a port, protected by defensive structures (such as the Tower of Roqueta) to repel pirates from Galicia and north Africa. The port’s ties to northern Europe came primarily from exports of wine, fruits and salt, and imports of tile, textiles and glass.
After the maritime discoveries and trade, the commercial life of Viana reached its greatest proportions during the reign of Queen Maria II of Portugal, when the monarch established the Associação Comercial de Viana do Castelo in 1852 (the fourth oldest public company of its type). The queen, in order to reward the loyalty of its citizens, who did not surrender to the Count of Antas, elevated the town to the status of city on 20 January 1848, renaming the settlement with its current name.
During the dictatorial regime, Viana do Castelo was one of the most important ports of the Portuguese cod fisheries.

An example of the latter, O Navio Gil Eannes, a hospital ship ,is preserved on the quayside. Built in Viana , in 1955, with what must have been at the time, state of the art equipment, this ship serviced the fishing fleets , harvesting Cod , as far away as Newfoundland; acting as a hospital, supplier and occasional ice- breaker. It was fascinating to be able to visit , below decks, the surgeries, X-ray theatre and wards. The wine store, bakery and kitchen, plus the sailors’ quarters have been preserved. In the bowels of the ship, the engine room was fascinating, with parts from Chicago and Middlesex! A unique experience and to think it almost perished in the breakers’ yards in the Port of Lisbon.

High on my list , was a ride on the funicular that takes you up to Santa Luzia; a landmark that towers over the city.

The church is of recent construction , in the revivalist style, completed in the 20 th century, at the behest of a wealthy soldier, grateful for a cure from near destructive illness. The views from the top are panoramic, described as the third greatest viewpoint in the world by National Geographic Magazine.

This Sunday morning , the Avenida ( Main Street ) was given over to a line of Classic Cars, nearly all Portuguese owned and featuring a car I should love to drive, aTriumph TR 3.

However, I just had to settle for my earlier navigation stance , on the hospital ship.

Viana was one of my stops, when I walked solo, along the coast, from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, three years ago and it was interesting to find some of the way marks and sights of this long established , but little walked Camino. Of especial interest was the 15 th century Pilgrim Hospital.

There are a number of well preserved civic buildings, palaces and churches. The Turismo provided an English guide to most of them.

We enjoyed a great sample of Portuguese cooking at the campsite restaurant and the pulpo salad went down agreeably with a bottle of Vinho Verde. Bottoms Up!

So, farewell Viana, tomorrow a 300 mile drive South to the majestic and historic city of Evora ( last visited 40 years ago ) , en route for the Algarve.