ensuitepilgrim's Blog

Leaving Portugal, by the motorway to Seville, where we joined the Via de Plata Autovia. All the driving so far, from Santander, down to the Algarve and back up here in the Basque Mountains, has been such a pleasure , compared with driving in the UK, albeit at times, it has been very hot; uncrowded roads,good driving standards and plenty  of services. Should also mention our surprise about how uncrowded places have been, considering it is peak holiday time. The campsites have all been of good quality, and, as campsites tend to be, very different. Eg Arbizu, here in the mountains , contrasted with the Algarve, also, thankfully a little cooler!😓 So, back to the Via de Plata, and driving along, spotting places I stayed, with Mac, on our first leg of the Camino, Via de la Plata. Covering Seville to  Caceres in three hours , in the bus, which took us two weeks on foot.

Caceres campsite was different in that each place had its own Ensuite shower, loo and water – quite appropriate for the Ensuitepilgrim, I thought. Wonderful swimming facilities , surrounded by palm trees, really welcome in temperatures around 38*.

Caceres was chosen because we wanted to visit Trujillo,nearby, city of the Conquistadors.

Trujillo, located between the bottoms of the Tojo and Guadiana rivers, contains an important group of churches, castles and manor houses that are centred around the Plaza Mayor square and which are declared Property of Cultural Interest. Also, this Cáceres city has left an important mark on history: since in the 16th century it was the cradle of illustrious characters linked to the discovery of America. For this reason, Trujillo falls fully within the Route of the Conquistadors.

The origins of Trujillo are found in the primitive settlement called Turgalium. After being occupied by Romans and Visigoths, Trujillo remained under Arabic dominion for over 500 years, during which time it underwent notable development. It then passed into Christian hands after being conquered in 1232 by King Fernando III, and it was monarch Juan II that gave Trujillo the title of city in 1430.

In the 16th century, Trujillo experienced an age of great splendour due to its important role in the discovery of America. The city was the home of two great conquerors: Francisco de Pizarro, discoverer of Peru, and Francisco de Orellana. Other illustrious characters were also born in Trujillo, such as Fray Jerónimo de Loaísa, the first Bishop of Cartagena de Indias, and Nuflo de Chaves, discoverer of Bolivia. The city of Trujillo preserves its old flavour in its two areas: the medieval “village,” of Arabic origin, and the “city” from the 15th and 16th centuries.

city is structured around the monumental Plaza Mayor square, which is presided over by a bronze-cast statue of Pizarro on horseback. Over the centuries it has been the centre of social and commercial life of the city, hosting markets, festivals, and all kinds of shows. In the 16th century it became a noble plaza, since the conquistadors and diverse families from the nobility began to build houses and palaces in it.

http://www.spain.info › en_GB › otros-destinos

After a fascinating, self directed tour, courtesy of the Turismo’ s helpful guide, we made our way to Madrigal de la Vera, an area we had never visited before; river swimming below a Roman Bridge.

Next morning we were bound for Navarre and Abrizu, where the weather forecasts were optimistic and the air a little cooler. Great drive, over 1545 metres at some point! I was told the views were fantastic; couldn’t say that of the hairpins! Abrizu was a pretty village, festooned with all shades of Perlagoniums, from balconies and window boxes. The campsite proved to be another gem and was ensconced within a horseshoe of hills and mountains.

There were some huge birds floating on the thermals above us and they were marvelled at alongside the local, cloudy sidra.

Another surprise, on a walkabout around the site, was the discovery that a lot of the bungalow dwellers had little allotments, on the periphery. Eco-minded, a bug hotel,too.

Adios Espana, bound for  France, tomorrow; ideally making it as far as Touraine, en route for a Eurotunnel crossing on Monday morning and hopefully a Bonne Route.

Quarteria ‘s ORBITUR campsite was the base for a five day stop by the sea. Situated at the edge of the town, easy access to beach and supermarkets, this is a very good site, which despite its size, was tranquil , well ran and highly recommended; ( except for its over lengthy checking-in procedures )like the town the majority of holiday makers were Portuguese families, staying in tents, caravans, bungalows and mobile homes. The terrace overlooking the pool was my favourite spot and the staff soon became accustomed to my request for a white port and tonic, with ice, only after 6 pm, I might add! 🍹

From a simple fishing village, Quarteira has become one of the major tourist centres in the Algarve, famous for its golden beaches, its high quality fish and for its woods of stone pine.
Quarteira has seen a lot of development in recent years, leaving it characteristically high-rise in and around the town. Quarteira has still, however, managed to retain its Portuguese character and is particularly popular with Portuguese holidaymakers. The best part is the lovely palm-lined promenade, Avenida Infante de Sagres, known as the “Marginal”, where you can spend time relaxing with lovely walks along the seafront and on the outdoor terraces of cafés and bars all around.
Quarteira Beach is beautiful and rock-free and there are plenty of eating places with the Avenida Infante de Sagres running along behind it, which you can call on for refreshments. Quarteira still boasts a local fishing community and the fishermen can be seen at work at the western end of the beach. The catches are sold at the nearby fish market early in the morning and will end up on your plate for lunch or dinner the same day.

There is little of historic or cultural interest in the town – very good fish market. It is dominated by apartment blocks, typical of the Algarve as a whole. We enjoyed a great  fish dinner in the extensive garden of a restaurant on the beach and the quality and range of bars, cafes, etc, was extensive. Morning coffee is not complete without sampling Pastel de Nata,usually somewhere on Quarteria’ extensive promenade.

We went by local bus to Loule, to visit the castle  museum and the markets,for which it is famous , coaches from all the resorts make their way here, on Saturdays and the big difference to where we were staying was the number of Brits. I used to be able to get a take on the ambience of a place by observing the number of earrings and tattoos on the men; it’ changed now ,though , to the women. Sipping coffee, outside Loule’s Moorish style market, was a vantage point for people observation. One memorable top carried the message” MADE YOU LOOK”; it should have been followed below by ” Bet You  Wish You Hadn’t'”. But  Loule retained  its own, unspoilt atmosphere. The beginnings of Loulé are uncertain, some historians putting it as far back as 400BC, but others say it’s origins are Roman. It is a fact that when the Arabs invaded the Algarve in 715, Loulé was already an important town. It has been a part of Portugal since 1249 after the Algarve was recaptured from the Moors and in 1291 King Dom Dinis established the Algarve’s only medieval fair in Loulé, a sign of the wealth of the region.

Loulé castle (13th/14th century) built on an area previously settled by the Romans, is just a short distance down the road from the market on the left hand side. From this approach it isn’t very obvious that it is the castle as, through the arched gateway, you see the whitewashed walls of the ‘alcaidaria’ ( which was the living quarters for the castle commander and his garrison) surrounding a small courtyard and no visible signs of the castle walls. Across the courtyard lies the municipal museum, next door to which are some steps leading up to the remaining section of the castle walls.

The three remaining grey stone towers and short walkway between them are well preserved and apart from getting a great view of Loulé does also give a taste of the historical heritage of the Algarve. (There is a small charge for visiting the castle)
A little further along the street from the castle is the Convent of Espírito Santo which also houses the municipal art gallery.

The bus station in Quarteira had some eye catching murals; you wouldn’t find anything like these at Digbeth Coach Station.

Feast day of St James ( Santiago ) , today, 25 th July. Hope it is a good one for all fellow caminoists and friends. By coincidence, we set off, tomorrow for Caceres, wonderful city on the Camino, Via de la Plata.

Good drive to here,yesterday. Left some misty weather behind as we got South of Porto. 35* ,but breezy. Tomar is on the Camino from Lisbon and is a lovely town, easily walked and enjoyed. There was a film set in the Praca de Republica, but it had gone by this morning, revealing what a gem it is ,with the beautiful church, dedicated to St John the Baptist.

Staying on the  Municipal Parque de Campismo, by the river Nabao; good place , only spoilt occasionally by the unsupervised screaming of bare- arsed infants, whose capacity to swear, from the age of 18 months, was most impressive. These ” itinerant es” , claim to come from Essex, though the accent is not one ever deployed by Ian Dury! I suppose there is an Essex link with the preferred evening wear of black dress, revealing pink bra straps . They all have the most impressive caravans and vehicles on the site. The men disappear early and were overheard this morning ” 1100 Euros.. Fatima ” – I don’t think they were selling rosary beads. Still, leaving such distractions aside, an informative and impressive morning was spent climbing up to the Castelo de Tomar and the adjoining Convento de Christo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The  Castle is a fine example of Templar architecture of great historic and cultural significance.

The castle was part of the defence system created by the Templar Knights to secure the border of the Christian Kingdom against the Moors and remained a major stronghold for nearly two centuries during the Middle Ages. Later it played a significant part in the New World explorations of the 15th Century, led by one of the Order’s most famous grand masters, Henry the Navigator.

The Convento de Cristo Tomar is one of the key points of interest within the castle walls and boasts a unique mix of architecture spanning some five centuries. This is a place where gothic, renaissance and Moorish architecture sit side by side and combine with breath-taking results. The famous round church, located behind the keep, also dates back to the late 12th Century and was modelled after the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. It is characterised by its domed roof and bell tower and is a major feature of the castle skyline. The views are breathtaking,too.

And….Henry the Navigator was one of the order’s most famous grand masters. The Prince devoted much of the Order’s finances to fund his 15th Century explorations, securing the Order’s place in the history books. It was also the location of the formation of the Iberian Union in 1581, when Philip II of Spain was also recognised as Philip I of Portugal. The Union lasted until 1640 and it was during this time that the aqueduct was built.

Also…Key sights of interest at the Convent include its majestic entrance; the beautiful murals and sculptures of the charola; the 16th Century Manueline nave; the eight cloisters; the ornate janela, or window; the cross of the Order of Christ; and the armillary sphere, emblem of King Manuel I and of Portugal itself.

Tomar is home to the oldest Synagogue in Portugal, restored from its use as a store, when the Jews were expelled from Tomar; there are now only two Jewish families, one of which runs the synagogue as a museum, supported by donations of artefacts, from around the world .

The river is a feature of the town and is a natural division between the old town in the west and newer development to the east.

It has been a very enjoyable two days in this, one of Portugal’s most historic cities. Final Super Bock in the Plaza de Republica, the back to grill some Chicken Piri Piri. Tomorrow, a 229 mile drive to the Algarve, aiming to arrive at  Quarteria by lunchtime.

Originally Diana do…dedicated by the Romans, this understated city has been a joy to visit; whether wandering through narrow lanes, or enjoying the Squares and monuments. I love ports, and V do C still has an important role, though not as great as its heyday. No tourist tat and appropriate , commercial development, means it retains its charm and attractiveness.

Human settlement in the region of Viana began during the Mesolithic era, from discoveries and archaeological excavations. Even around the Roman occupation the area was settled along the Mount of Santa Luzia.
The settlement of Viana da Foz do Lima, which it was called when King Afonso III of Portugal issued a foral (charter) on 18 July 1258, was a formalization of the 1253 Viana that the area was named.
In the 16th century, its port gained great importance as one of the entry-points for Portuguese explorers and traders, involved in the Portuguese discoveries. Many of the historical buildings originated during this period.
The prosperity that continued developed from the town’s role as a port, protected by defensive structures (such as the Tower of Roqueta) to repel pirates from Galicia and north Africa. The port’s ties to northern Europe came primarily from exports of wine, fruits and salt, and imports of tile, textiles and glass.
After the maritime discoveries and trade, the commercial life of Viana reached its greatest proportions during the reign of Queen Maria II of Portugal, when the monarch established the Associação Comercial de Viana do Castelo in 1852 (the fourth oldest public company of its type). The queen, in order to reward the loyalty of its citizens, who did not surrender to the Count of Antas, elevated the town to the status of city on 20 January 1848, renaming the settlement with its current name.
During the dictatorial regime, Viana do Castelo was one of the most important ports of the Portuguese cod fisheries.

An example of the latter, O Navio Gil Eannes, a hospital ship ,is preserved on the quayside. Built in Viana , in 1955, with what must have been at the time, state of the art equipment, this ship serviced the fishing fleets , harvesting Cod , as far away as Newfoundland; acting as a hospital, supplier and occasional ice- breaker. It was fascinating to be able to visit , below decks, the surgeries, X-ray theatre and wards. The wine store, bakery and kitchen, plus the sailors’ quarters have been preserved. In the bowels of the ship, the engine room was fascinating, with parts from Chicago and Middlesex! A unique experience and to think it almost perished in the breakers’ yards in the Port of Lisbon.

High on my list , was a ride on the funicular that takes you up to Santa Luzia; a landmark that towers over the city.

The church is of recent construction , in the revivalist style, completed in the 20 th century, at the behest of a wealthy soldier, grateful for a cure from near destructive illness. The views from the top are panoramic, described as the third greatest viewpoint in the world by National Geographic Magazine.

This Sunday morning , the Avenida ( Main Street ) was given over to a line of Classic Cars, nearly all Portuguese owned and featuring a car I should love to drive, aTriumph TR 3.

However, I just had to settle for my earlier navigation stance , on the hospital ship.

Viana was one of my stops, when I walked solo, along the coast, from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, three years ago and it was interesting to find some of the way marks and sights of this long established , but little walked Camino. Of especial interest was the 15 th century Pilgrim Hospital.

There are a number of well preserved civic buildings, palaces and churches. The Turismo provided an English guide to most of them.

We enjoyed a great sample of Portuguese cooking at the campsite restaurant and the pulpo salad went down agreeably with a bottle of Vinho Verde. Bottoms Up!

So, farewell Viana, tomorrow a 300 mile drive South to the majestic and historic city of Evora ( last visited 40 years ago ) , en route for the Algarve.

Picos it was not meant to be. On arriving st Santander, the weather was misty and damp, so we headed south.But before that a word or two on the Crossing from Plymouth to Santander. The crossing was smooth and arrival was punctual. However, we were not prepared for the ” entertainment”, on board, which ranged from Music  quiz and a magician to a Supremes lookalike act! We did manage to watch the Mens’ Final and later, the European Championship Final. A good value breakfast was enjoyable and by  midday, the coast of Northern Spain was visible, as we celebrated Han’s birthday; she was very pleased with her watch and enjoyed an impromptu burst of ” Happy Birthday”, from a jolly group on the next table.

Tordesillas was reached easily enough, along mainly deserted motorways.

Because of its important highway connections Tordesillas has become a major transit hub. The economy is based on services — especially connected to tourism — and the agricultural production of the surrounding area. Wheat has long been the traditional agricultural product

Fourth visit to this campsite, over the years and it never fails to feel welcome , well organised and…..sunny! The Plaza ayor is a treat, and traditional in its design; three corners given to cafes and little traffic. There was the unlikely shadow of controversy over shadowing the town, this year. The town is known for its Toro de la Vega festival during which a bull was slaughtered by people on horseback and on foot. Animal rights groups repeatedly tried to stop this from taking place. The bull is at least 5 years old when he’s killed and is allow to live in a large property to keep him territorial, unlike other animals who are killed for the butcher at 1 year of age. Finally, in May 2016 the Regional government issued a decree prohibiting to slaughter the bull in public; animal rights activists regarded it as a victory after years denouncing publicly the cruelty with great national and worldwide coverage. The mayor of the town, backed unanimously by the opposition, made a statement of outrage the same day of the prohibition. The bull slaughter had came to be inextricably associated with the name of the town, overshadowing the rich monumental and historical heritage.

Now, for the next stage of the holiday; on to Viana do Castelo, Portugal.

R

The weeks building up to departure, on Sunday 10 th July , have been a mixture of Looking after grandchildren, working on the allotment and back garden. Mixed in with visit from old college friends, two friends’ birthday celebrations  and receiving positive news  of a recent blood test. A purchase of an up to date Map of Spain and Portugal, together with a new camping guide, thereto. At different times, weather forecasts have been sought and a range of itineraries devised, depending on the weather, when we disembark at Santander. Hopefully as pictured.

It has become a tradition that I burn a cd for friends’ birthdays and I was pleased to be able to compile, Case, Lang and Viers , with Jeff Lynne – an unlikely amalgam.

Nothing I enjoy more than rhymes, stories and poems shared with the grandchildren , on the I-pad, or ” real books”,whether it’s Michael Rosen or The Runaway Train!

There have been practical matters to attend to,like taking out the portable bike from the ” bus” and reminding myself how it folds out…..and back.

A pleasant surprise, just the other day, when I received a donation of a£100.00 to the Cancer Relief Fund, from a former colleague; glad I hadn’t closed down the Just Giving account.

Health wise, I was pleased that a recent blood test was all clear, two years on and have never felt more that growing older is both a privilege and a bonus. Impetus given then to possible destinations in Spain; will it be Potes in the Picos de Europa , or the coast near A Coruna and most importantly that wherever we reach on Monday 11 th July, there is a good restaurant to celebrate Hannah’s birthday.

I have been enjoying two diaries of an ex-pat in Spain.” Spanish Journals, The Posthumous Diaries of an ExPat”, by A R Lowe . A genuine curmudgeon , often politically incorrect…but , at times, unknowingly funny and I mean laugh aloud funny! Especially, his attempts to give English lessons to the locals. His star pupil insists on learning the language through translations of his favourite, Country & Western Standards. A Bientot.