ensuitepilgrim's Blog

This was the scenario for the rest of the trip….weather forecasts….sorry to be so British and fixated about the weather , but they led us to believe that the Costa Brava was a done deal. Not so; sunny and warm till early afternoon, then cloud and rain.

Pity, because Sant Pere Pescador and this site, Camping Riu, together, make an excellent base.See above, because sometimes WordPress has a way of its own!

We bought a local walk guide and followed a couple of trails; one to the beach , the other alongside the River Fluvia. Flat …which was a bonus and well signposted.

Evenings and early mornings ( Hannah’s photos ) were worthy…..and the rainbows.

Although we were content with the town and the site , the weather forecasts, for once proving to be accurate and there was an unseemly amount of rain about…Beautuful mornings, then wet afternoons . Always able to BBQ in the evening, often in glorious sunshine.

Come Tuesday, we decided to have a trip , using local buses, to Girona; 20 plus years since we were there. Really lovely city, lots of student life, magnificent Cathedral and a friendly atmosphere. Sunny, too, making the walk along the city walls and views, even more memorable. ( Again, see right above )

Weather forecasts not good…never consistent; sometimes wonder if they are on the same planet. So, we are off to the Costa Dorada, tomorrow…Cambrils, where we have stayed before and at least ,most forecast sites were 🌞 It’ s just that I can sit in the bus, on my drive in dull, or wet weather ; I just want to be able to replicate my stance on the lounger, above. Book, magazine, coffee….simple stuff. Possibly a Tinto Verano, but only after 6 pm!🍷

So 153 miles South; wasn’t planned but, what’s a Motorhome for ?

” Bizarre travel plans are a dancing lesson from God ” Kurt Vonnegut.

The plan was use the Peage motorways( don’t usually )
Reasons of time
Scares about fuel strikes in France
Nearly Germany, but the bullet and stuck to our plans.
Bit the bullet – 2 20 L containers of diesel + 5
55mins late from Dover to Calais
Drove in misty conditions on Mway towards Paris .
Good progress. Early Paris rush hour Peripheral slow in places , kept moving
First stop South of Paris on A10; topped up fuel, no problem, no queues
Sausage/ eggs breakfast, coffee – a tradition!☕️
Moved on South of Orleans , next stop sleep + fuel

Eventually joined the A75 free motorway to Beziers
Brilliant Mway, Auvergne , Cantal depts – scenery , hills, causse,
and you had to drive it; ascents of 1100 metres, in places.
Great engineering.

Millau crossing ; lunch, with great views of hilltop town.
Four fillups in total – no queues, no limits, despite all the scare stories.
Eventually arrived at La Grangefort, near Issoire.
Quirky folly, Dutch owners for 31 years, improving
Meal on the terrace – earnt it!

Early start rural, then back on Mway

Peage re started at Beziers. Busy, trouble free across Pyrenees , into Spain
Followed campsite Riu directions thru San Pedro Pescador
Good job, Siesta time, as it was vet narrow, in places.
Crossed River Fluvia to the site . Spacious pitch. Entrance to riverside walk opposite

Walked to supermarket

Drink on terrace and BBQ

Glad we made it!

They say that Madrid is a city that never sleeps. As Mac & I made our way down the Calle Atocha, at 6 am, this morning, we witnessed hordes of young people, in all manner of states – euphoric, exhausted, noisy and boisterous – unthreatening. I was even more glad for the double strength windows in our hotel room, which overlooked this popular thoroughfare – didn’t hear a thing. A final glass of Pacharan , in the hotel bar ,may have helped. Less than 24 hours in this great, capital city, but time enough to enjoy the lively area around us, especially, Plaza Sta Ana. Returning , we came across a  dramatic sculpture, recognising the fate of 35 citizens, assassinated, during the civil war. A sobering sight. The journey home was smooth enough, having navigated  the Madrid Metro system, to reach Barajas Airport, in time for a final Desayuno.

I was relieved to finish this section of the Camino, mainly because a lot of family and friends had been so generous with their sponsorship.Muchas Gracias. This section of the Via de la Plata, from Caceres to Zamora ( particularly after wet weather ) , is challenging in different ways – long stretches without any place of refreshment. Few places to sit down and take a break; except for the ground, and after entering Castille y Leon, wide ranges of monotonous landscape – mainly cereals and grazing. Even the snow- capped mountains were soon left behind. Apart from the many Spings and stretches of floodwater, the surfaces were good to the feet ( fine grit & sand ) and the Camino, well signposted. Of course, my view could have been clouded by the days of miserable weather . However, I should not recommend it for first-timers. Compensations came by way of the companionship of other pilgrims and the gracious, friendly welcome received in bars, cafes and places we stayed.

The Via de la Plata has brought some investment and revitalisation, to some of these lonely Pueblos , with locals offering accommodation in restored houses and farms – highly recommended as essential alternatives ( for me ), to Albergues, which can be found there , too.

The government, with EU help, has improved the road infrastructure and high speed train lines are bring built.These are breathtaking constructions .

The history of the Camino and the dedicated sites, especial to St James and his devoted Pelegrinos, are well represented along the way and in different forms.

“Walking the Camino you can make yourself miserable or strong. But the amount of walking will be still the same.” That was a quotation, I found, somewhere and was very appropriate for this Camino. There is also another, Spanish ,saying, which goes some way to describing the attitude of pilgrims, both to those who look after them, feed and direct them… and to each other :-

– “El peregrino no exige , agradece. ”

There are moments and times when I should have reminded myself of that and what a privilege it was, nevertheless , to walk this Way.

Translation – A pilgrim doesn´t demand , he´s grateful.

Amen to that !

🎇🕯🎇