There are many reasons for writing a Blog.When it comes to travel, then recapturing moments, views, people….selecting a photo ( Ithink I took two hundred plus ), is my attempt to encapsulate one of the above.It is not scientific; it is either an emotional, or a spontaneous selection, from memory and the spur that a photo can provide.
For example, a picture of a herd of contented Black Iberian Pigs, is not an obvious metaphor for Calvary,but that is exactly what greeted us on reaching the summit of a hill by that name…not three crosses. Subjectivity ,why did I like the GumRose, of all the wild flowers, so much?
I have tried to list what I took from this Camino….and what I gave.The Solo Pilgrimage I made, last time, was to restore self belief and confidence, after serious illness; it worked , although I did not know that an even greater challenge was to come when Cancer was diagnosed,three months after its completion! Nine months since the surgery, with the encouragement of family and my fellow Pelegrino, Mac,the first Etape of the Via de la Plata has been made.I took a risk, but then a UROSTOMY is only a diversion after all.I took all my preparation with me, the maps , the websites, the training and the relentless re-packing to reduce Rucksack weight.“Life is a journey. When you travel, you live twice.”
What did I give? Obviously as a Pelegrino, I gave to the locals…unsolicited tips in bars and cafés; giving more in change than what I paid, for fresh fruit at a local shop.Small instances, these, but a Pilgrim always says ” thank you”.”Muchas Gracias” to all the kindly and hospitable Spanish people, who helped in so many ways,whether responding to requests for directions,or explaining the intricacies of Gazpacho,Extremaduran style….Muy Bien.I gave my encouragement to fellow Pelegrinos ..”Buen Camino”, many times along the Way.
Mac was my comrade in arms, literally, helping me on numerous occasions to lift up my rucksack on to my shoulders.
Yes, he’s just contemplating his next lift! Mac, of course, knew all the Pilgrims ( happily far more than we expected), we met, by the end of most days; we took a great deal of ,hopefully mutual pleasure, from talking to a fascinating range of walkers:- Jean & Tom from California, for example, he was 72 years young and his wife, 83!On her third marriage,with 25 grandchildren between them. Then there was an occasional meet with a Costa Rican and his German wife,taking their beautiful 12 month old son with them.From the sublime to the sublime.We ate , drank and laughed with a Hungarian couple , four convivial, Dutch guys, Italians , Germans,French and Spanish.I remember, by request, translating a Spanish Menu into French for a bewildered couple , from Eastern France.Now, that is a responsibility! Many amusing waiters and one that sticks in the mind reminded us of Marty Feldman,who would double bounce our empty Schweppes Tonic bottles off the table;he rewarded our laughter with free shots of “Acorn Kiss Extremeno ” Liqueur ….Delicious.
A character who impressed us with his unerring ability to find us, most evenings, in whatever bar, square, or restaurant , we found ourselves in, was a Liverpudlian,”Our Kid” as he nominated himself, despite being 68 years old! Found out later, he was called Brian.Although, now living in Bantry Bay,his accent was unmistakeable .He could beguile you with anecdotes, mostly beginning..”this mate of mine…” and a predilection for the works of Noam Chomsky, who he regarded as a Guru…” 501″ was the title of the Tome he carried with him and apparently it has all the answers. A musical therapist by trade and great company ….in small doses.T G he was a much faster walker than us.“I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me.” Noel Coward.
What was absolutely common across all the Pelegrinos, we were fortunate to meet, was their compassion and their curiosity.And, the major difference between a Package type holiday ( not meant in any disparaging way ) and Walking a Camino is “The traveler sees what he sees; the tourist sees what he has come to see”. – Gilbert K. Chesterton
A most rewarding experience for an Ensuitepilgrim; we met youg people who were walking the full 1000Km,sleeping under cagoules , when Albergues were full and seemingly living on biscuits! We were privileged to be able to look forward to our own shower and room; thereby freeing up space in the Albergues!
Thanks to everyone for their love , help and support – it was a privilege for us both.Viva Espana……“I have long believed that any man interested in either the mystic or the romantic aspects of life must sooner or later define his attitude concerning Spain.”
James A. Michener “Iberia” 1968