Oporto to Santiago de Compostella – September 2013

Tuesday, 3rd September

Just to state that ALL of this Caminho will be contained in this Post ; just a case of scrolling down.
Or laziness on my part.
Emptied Rucksack to recheck packing.

Thursday , 5th September

Barbara kindly dropped me off at Digbeth Coach Station at 15 minutes after midnight.
Felt slightly disorientated and a little apprehensive, after 3 hours sleep.
Coach down to foggy Stansted Airport.
Smooth enough and flight was only 30 minutes late arriving at Porto.

Got 24 hour “Andante” Metro ticket and arrived at the Airport Hostal, nearby.

Having been on the go for the best part of 10 hours, rested up for a while.
Enjoyed two beef salad ciabattas for lunch in the garden ( thanks Barbara ).

Went in to Porto – Metro only 5 minutes away.
A couple of changes and I was soon climbing up to Sao Bento, the Cathedral.

Went in to the Cathedral and got my Pilgrim Stamp.
Walked down to the River and was tempted by this sight:-

As ever,in Porto,you will discover amazing views and interesting buildings:-

There was a Port Festival on the riverside, but I did not ” cave in” ….
Seems they bring the Portwine down somewhat differently, these days.

Climbed back up through old streets, still with their concrete washtub s adjacent to their front doors.

Reluctantly returned to the Hostal and went for dinner at local restaurant; tried a Francenghina,
think that’s how you spell it! A combination of ham, steak and sausage, enveloped in a huge omelette, with a piquant sauce….what a challenge.

Hopefully will walk it off, tomorrow.
Chatting to the two cousins who run the Hostal, they inherited the property from their grandmother.I gave them a packet of Sunflower seeds for the garden they are developing.
I was sent them from a monk who has a website selling small Caminho items.

Friday 6 th September

Enjoyable breakfast , then took the 08.11 Metro, changing once and alighting at Mercardo Matosinhos to cross the bridge on to the Ocean side route.Very foggy at this point.

Walked mainly along raised wooden walkways above the Dunes, which the civic authorities are doing their best to preserve. Detailed notices about the Biodiversity and historical sites were a welcome and informative feature.

The mists dissolved by midday.Met a couple of English girls making

their way for their first Caminho.They asked me to take their photo and then offered to take mine.

Eventually,walked into Vila do Conde and with the help of the Turismo, found a room opposite the Estuary.

Rested up and did the usual bits of washing, after a sandwich and a beer.
Walkabout – Interesting town, with long history of shipbuilding.

Meal on the square, watching , inevitably, Portugal vs N. Ireland.
Excellent Seafood Risotto, after a local sausage starter!

Tomorrow , on to Esposende.
Will try to post all photos to date on Facebook.

Earlier snap of Aqueduct.
Saturday,7th September

Left at 7.30 am.Quiet walk along the sea up and through Povoa de Varzim, which is a complete contrast to Vila do Conde, being high rise dominated, but the Marina , seafront and beaches were very well cared for.A local stopped to have a chat and wish me well opposite this church.

All the villages and towns are proud of their seafaring traditions of exploration, ship building, life-saving and particularly, fishing as depicted in part of this Mural.

As happens, the blue and yellow arrows disappeared and so it was with some relief that after 2 1/2 hours’ walk I came upon St Andre, Patron of fishermen ( a church and cafe ; not himself)

I was given a warm welcome by the owner who had cycled the Caminho, himself.He refused any payment for my pot of Earl Grey, toast and bottle of water.He did agree to a photo, though.

Walked on and the path,

well marked led a little way inland, alongside intense- method cultivation and Pine and Eucalyptus Forest.

. Just to show it’s not all sun, sand and siestas!

Walked into pleasant,estuary town of Fao – first, full road side sign and notices re.” The Caminho”

Getting on for 2pm,time for lunch and climbed the stairs to a Bar run by the volunteer Bombeiros ( firefighters ).lunch was€ 3.00, including a beer.

I went down to the fire traction below and was given my “stamp” for my “Pilgrim Passport” and a conducted tour; this included two proudly preserved engines, both of English origin:- a Ford and an Austin.

On into Esposende and then to Apulia for the night.

Sunday 8 th September

A choice to make, whether to amble along the coastal route, beside the dunes, or go for the locally recommended , if more challenging,slightly internal route. I chose the latter and although this was to be a physically demanding walk of 8 hours, it was probably the CAMINHO as understood by aficionados.

The way was well signed for the most part; I did have to retrace my steps a couple of times, but nothing too lengthy.

I was given a warm welcome at a tiny cafe, where A Belgian Portuguese guy wanted to,take me home for lunch with his family!

The signage improved although it would have been easy to miss the turning for this stone bridge. The route was authenticated by stopping at a church, dedicated to St.James, built on a 9 th Century site, resplendent with statues, etc;

I passed another church:-

St James in battle mode.
Then a village ,celebrating a Festa .

Eventually, Viano came into view:-

Found accommodation with help from a local Portuguese lady. A lift in her car.Dinner, eventually! Long, amazing day.

PS I didn’t eat all the chips!
Monday 9 th September

Met a German lady on the stairs,in the Hospedaria, she introduced herself as Anna and was by coincidence , going the same route as me. As the day went on, we bumped into each other twice!
Decided to take a little train ride, mainly because I was fascinated by the line coming into Viano , across the Eiffel Bridge; the railway runs below the road and don’t I just love railway stations and trains? It’s my ” inner geekiness”

Only a short ride for €1.40 and guess who I met on the train? But having a sore back, she was going further along the line.

The Coastal Caminho was invigorating ,views of people searching for provender in rock pools and the most clement weather for walking.

The walk switch backed, along boardwalks, over the dunes.

Ancient fortification.

Eventually, I reached Praia da Ancora; I was particularly looking forward to revisiting this little resort, where we took Thomas, at 15 months, on a camping holiday, 30+ years ago.
It was not a disappointment, estuary, esplanade and really helpful Lady in
the Turismo, where there was a display about the history of the single track line that runs from Porto to Vigo.Superb.

Pressing on, but still taking time to smell the flowers.

Passiaflora, I think.
Having reached Caminha and promising myself a light lunch in the atmospheric Praca ( I was there last year) , who should be giving me a wave but Anna! She was soon off to catch the Ferry across the Minho, to Spain.

I walked another 5 km to my Residencial San Pedro and enjoyed some recuperation by the pool.

Later, walked in to the village of Seixas,bordering the Minho, was struck by the unusual Parish Church.

Took a stroll alongside the river and captured the sun setting over Spain, tomorrow’s destination.

Tuesday 10 th September

Brisk walk of 5 km , 30 mins, to the Ferryboat

Followed the yellow arrows up a steep hill and walked through a mixture of overgrown paths( indicates how few Pilgrims come this way ) along the sea and then into A Guarda.

Climbed up into the Praca and received really helpful map and advice.Fortunately, there was a cafe, where I lingered over coffee and Agua con Gaz; you know you are in Spain, even the glasses are classy!

Now to walk to Oia.

Helpfully markers.

Sometimes I had to climb up above the rocky shore, but always in a Northerly direction. Some walking along a main, but not very busy road, strong wind at times kept me cool. Got to Hotel, beautiful location and tiny cove.Dominated by a long abandoned 12 th Century,Cistercian Monastery.

After a brief stroll, the temperature was till in the 80s at 9pm! Enjoyed the best Gin & Tonic I have had this year!

<img src=”https://ensuitepilgrim.blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130910-225417.jpg” alt=”20130910-225417.jpg” class=”alignnone size-full”Sunset over the Atlantic,then back to the hotl for a “Menu Del Dia”,€ 10.00 which included home-made tortilla and salad, escalope with fresh veg.cheese with Membrillo ( quince) and the blackest most natural honey I have ever seen or tasted.Plus wine. Sweet dreams!

Wednesday 11 th September

Had breakfast with two Swiss Pelegrinos, sisters-in-law.We walked part of the Way together.
Their names were Rosemary, ex-principal of a private, foreign languages college,the other was called…….wait for it, Heidi! She was walking well at 68 years; both good company,too.

Fabulous views and warm ,sunny weather.

Just before this Ancient burial ground, high up on a hill, I found a piece of paper, pinned to,the ground by four stones, with
“John” clearly written on it! I realised it was a message from Anna, whom I met the other day.
I had asked her to E-mail me the website where he had downloaded such great maps; she had found the website and signed off her note ” from Anna, the lady with the maps “. !

This is a typical part of the Way, through Eucalyptus and Pinewoods,in the hills above the Atlantic.

At the end of the path, as I descended into a village, a horse gazed at me and then turned on his heels.

That was view of Baiona, seaside resort in a Ria of its own, famous for the location of its Parador.

Cerulean waters, as seen from the ramparts.

The Esplanade is pleasant enough, over-priced fish restaurants and bars.There is an ancient alleyway running parallel and behind the seafront, where there is more in the way of character.

Baiona’s history is linked to the discovery of America in the Fifteenth Century,The vanguard of Columbus’s fleet landed here in 1493.

In the Misericordia Chapel, I took a picture of St James vanquishing and trampling the Moors underfoot.

Being in a “Resort” ,it is always worth a little researching for not so much cheap, but authentic cooking.
Which brought me to ” o refuxio de Anton”; atmospheric, service friendly and brilliant.

Thursday 12 th September

Route out of Baiona was very good at first, then the Fleches disappeared and I was suddenly up a track confronted by three barking dogs. So I retraced and in a tiny Hamlet asked an elderly gentleman for some directions; bless him, he drove me 5 km towards where I should have been, on Playa Americana; the blessings on the way continue…

No, not that elderly gentleman! Walked along Playa Americana, where we camped on the beach, about40 years ago.
Refreshed after an Americano coffee and Agua con Gaz, continued towards Vigo.

View of Vigo, from afar.

Typical “Horreo” to keep the rats away from the corn.

Backroads,Calvary.

It seemed to take forever to get into the City.

Found the Hostal reasonably easy; only had to ask four locals!

This a view from by third floor turret.

Family fun in the Plaza de la Republica. Friday 13th September

I am not superstitious, good job, given the date, but although I spent a lot of time last evening trying to realise the route out of Vigo, it was not to be. I had a good Desayuno on the Portfront and having filched a town-plan from the Tourist Office, which wasn’t open ( they never are when you need them),given to me by the cleaner,I decided to find the road out and see if I could pick out some yellow arrows along the way.I did not! Au Revoir Vigo.

Tags: Caminho, coach, packing, plane, Santiago de Compostella, Start