Monday, 16th September
The penultimate stage from Caldas de Reis to Padron.
The “Way” is well signed and there are plentiful images of Saint James along the route to Padron.
This is another very enjoyable walk; great views.
A somewhat overcast morning, for the first time in nearly a fortnight, but still warm.
Saint James, an ancient sculpture.
Views from my hotel bedroom,I love trains and there are only a few passing here.
A stroll around Padron, a Pelegrino captured to perfection.
Inside this rather forbidding-looking Romanesque Church are to be found some artefacts based on the Legend of St. James. Most famously, the stone pillar, housed under the altar, to which the boat bringing James and his disciples , was tethered.
There are other paintings , etc; capturing the “events” in his arrival and career!
Across from the church, on the bank of the river, is a replica of the stone, which is from where the name “Padron” comes.
An enormous Heron on the prowl.
Behind this Fountain is a climb to a very significant place in the Legend of St .James
After a climb between two houses on a narrow lane, I reached the summit where James allegedly preached the Gospel.
Padron,apart from being a significant place in the life and legend of St James, is also famous for its pimientos; this statue captures a pepper- seller.
Literally on the corner, opposite, was a lady carrying on the tradition.
More engravings en route back to the hotel.
As ever enjoy the flowers.
Padron is a captivating place and the only disappointment was that the Museum, dedicated to Rosalia de Castro, was closed on Mondays.She , along with Nobel prize-winning novelist Camilo José Cela (1916–2002, was responsible for ensuring the renaissance of Galician culture and language.Her life story is fascinating, an untimely death – all the ingredients of Romanticism.
Some folks say, “My native land!”
And others, “My belovéd!”
And this one, “My sweet memories!”
And that one, “My friends!” will reprise.
All are sighing so like these,
What’s now to all above hid.
I alone don’t take a hand,
Sigh, nor ever thereof did,
But this clay body will withstand
And my weakened spirit whereof bid
Shall come with me as I command
……….as ever thereof did.
Rosalía de Castro
(1837-1885)
Tuesday 17 th September
Crossed the railway line, adjacent to the hotel and picked up the Caminho by this Church.
The Way takes you through tiny, unspoiled hamlets and some well regarded Horreros.
Fell in to company with a Spanish born American guy who hd just retired from ” Law Enforcement” in Florida; a fund of information and , surprisingly quite a radical!
Last section of the rural Caminho.
For the second time in 15 months I am surprised how the Way just squeezes through between these two houses.
They called out the band to serenade me in to Santiago!
The Cathedral, of course.I think it needs some TLC…a bit like me!
I was booked in to the Hospederia, next to,the Cathedral, which has a special floor, for Pelegrinos. Amazing building; my room is a Seminarist’s cell, quiet, clean,Ensuite!
This is the dining room, €10.00 dinner with wine.
These are two shots of the San Martin Hospedaria.
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Some reflections on this Caminho, to follow tomorrow….It has been a great experience, but I am really glad I do not have to do the foot care ritual , or carry my pack, tomorrow.
Wednesday 18 th September
Said goodbye to Rosemary and Heidi in the Cathedral.
We had a farewell dinner in great refectory, in the Hospederia.
The Cathedral Altar, in readiness for the daily Pilgrims’Mass.
I found this cross, so associated with St James.
One final photo before taking the Airport Bus, a snip at € 3.00.
On the plane home, from S de C to Stansted; Ryanair, 30 minutes late departing.
CONCLUSIONS
Despite my trepidations on the coach journey down to Stansted,as soon as I landed in Porto, just after some rain ( never had any, the whole trip), I felt more at ease with nature of a Solo Caminho.
Apart from walking solo, the biggest difference from other Caminhos, was the lack of Pilgrims in the Coastal Route.
I met six in all, between Porto and Redondela, where numbers increased dramatically because the Central route arrives there, too. That’s not to say I didn’t have many enjoyable chats with locals, bar and hotel staff.I received much kindness and hospitality.
I greatly enjoyed the Caminho; as much as any of the four I have now completed.
The Coastal Route is a gem and greatly under- used. The infrastructure is there by way of Albergues in most places, or Hostals and small hotels.
Way marking was very good with two exceptions:- Coming out of the edge of Baiona and both into and out of Vigo.However, these were overcome without too much difficulty; a sense of direction is necessary! And obeying the impulse to ask a Local!
As a personal journey, I found that it affected me quite deeply; the chance to walk for hours alone with just thoughts for company. and at other times, some music.Fr John Misty track:-
” Every Man Needs a Companion”. A brilliant song for me.
Physically,it was demanding at times , but I was greatly determined that walking this Caminho would challenge me to change in some way .
Well, after two days I reduced my painkillers from 6 to 2 a day!
I took time out at the end of each day, to just lay down , not sleep, but recover myself.
( no awful Continental T V )
I made one or two,other resolutions as well, for the future.
Having suffered that Stroke, broken vertebrae, lost 70% movement in my shoulder, I have recovered my self confidence and hope that this will benefit not only me, but the family, too.
A Good Caminho….
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