Saturday 15 th June
Started a new “Post”.
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Left Obidos in taxi towards the sea.
Walked from there to Nazare.
Along a boardwalk, over the dunes, through the town, until we picked up a GR route,
along with GPS.
Amazing ocean views and a path through small hamlets down to a beautiful, deserted beach.
We struggled along the sand until, thankfully we found a Beach bar, open, after 2 and 1/2 hrs,
“Noite Atlantique”seafood specialities, etc; another helpful owner directed us to a path between
the dunes and farmland, towards Nazare, that would take us to the bridge we should need to cross
before the last stretch into the resort.
Nazare, famous for its fishing boats ( not apparent sadly ),does not commend itself to the experienced traveller.Wizened ladies in “traditional” dress, perched on chairs,offering rooms.
And then, being a Saturday, full of coach trippers. More Blackpool than Brighton!
Found a hotel, thankfully, after turning down a 6 bed cellar in a “Residencial”!
I took a trip up the cliff to the old town, on the Funicular- breathtaking views from precipices –
far more stately than the upstart resort, below.
The coaches departed but the resort was still by far, the liveliest place we have experienced.
And I began to develop a liking for its seasidy cheerfulness, with everyone preparing for the
Festival, which was to take place the following day – St Anthony – very big in Portugal.
The Funicular up to what was the original town.
The Square and beautiful church.
Sunday 16 th June
Took the Funicular to begin the walk to Sao Pedro de Muel
the entire walk was through Pine forest along a cycle lane , thoughtfully laid down by the local authorities.
There was a coffee stop at a small resort, where a number of the group debated the state of Portugal’s economy with a very cheerful proprietress.
we reached SAN PEDRO DE MUEL
in good time
View from Hotel Miramar 2*.Brilliant price,people and food; shame about the weather, which was turning to rain
Change of plan, because of weather we have heroically sacrificed a long walk in similar terrain to today’s trek, for a bus ride, we hope,
from nearby Leiria to Aveiro,Portugal ‘ s “Little Venice”.
Our delightful hosts have offered us a lift to the bus station, saving a10 km traipse in the rain.
As they say, travelling is not all about sight seeing, but the experiences along the way!
Last photo was a delicious experience:- Ginja liqueur, served in what look like chocolate potties
Woke to a bright sunlit seascape.
Late ish breakfast and to confound yesterday evening’s decision,a new arrangement had been planned.Still accepting lift to Leiria,then bus to Figuera da Foz ; well let us hope that is the case.
Journey to Fig de Foz in Rede Express coach.
m Passing rice fields and salt pans in the River Mondego – Portugal ‘s largest – and a beautiful , new bridge .
Both of these photos were taken through th coach window, as it approached Fig. De Foz. This town can offer a harbour, seafront and fish restaurants, plus wide beach , as attractions;its interior has as much charm as a North London suburb.I almost forgot, it has a church…
This last photo is for my daughter,Hannah, who for sometime had been extolling the deliciousness of Tuna and cheese , as a lunchtime medley. I was never persuaded until losing my taste buds, so Hannah, here it is:- toasted with a Super Bock on the side!
In the evening we had dinner at “Cacarola1” Restaurant, “Lonely Planet” recommendation.
Oversized Squid and Prawn kebabs, a foot long.
Also spotted first reference to Santiago, in the form of a sword, plus Scallop shell, hung on the wall, in the dining room amongst a plethora of plates and other exhibits.
Tuesday 18 th June
I thought weather forecasts for the Midlands ( U K ) were unreliable until Portugal.Heavy rain over night, but awoke to clearing skies; the remainder of the day was bright and breezy,whereas we had been led to expect showers.
Waiting for the bus to Tocha, to avoid headwind around Fig. De Foz
Walked for miles along forest trail – pines,acacias – surprising lack of wildlife, especially birds. Next day we set off towards Aveiro – we have met with unfailing kindness and good humour, especially in the cafes – typical route by the Ria-
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The Portguese Navy coming upstream to greet us!
Beautiful view across the Ria as we
approached Aveiro.Traditional fishing boat.
. Crossing from Praia de Barron to
Sao Jacinto by ferry; this nearly proved to be disastrous in terms of finding accommodation when we landed, as the group decided against finding a hotel, that side of the Ria, hence missing out on both Aveiro and a choice of Residencias. But as can often happen to Pilgrims – even Ensuitepilgrims – the local people came to our rescue.
Theresa , owner of the Esplanade Bar, and her friends, tried to help us find a place.
I had already told everyone it was ltd, this side of the water. In two cars, refusing any payment,
they took us up and down the Ria, trying an Orbitur campsite, which one or two thought was below them, and then a 4* Aparthotel, which charged ridiculous prices and had no restaurant !
Some were prepared to be ripped off till that point.Then our gracious hosts were good enough to take us back to Orbitur Campsite, where Diogo, the manager was still happy enough to give us a bungalow at a good price. Stiff upper lip, much debate ( not by me) about who , where would sleep! Lack of reality here!
I could pontificate a lot longer here about group dynamics; instead, our friends drove back 5 km to pick us up and take us to a traditional , fish restaurant. Then, adjourned to Therasa’s for Digestifs…
Such generosity; I hope in insight some of us remember how well we were cared for.
.
Best Sardines, I have ever had!
Lovely glass of Porto Branco!
Thursday 20 th June
Walked out of campsite, to a wonderful view in glorious sunshine.
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Walked alongside the Ria – occasional, small beaches – traditional fishing boats
CONTRASTS:-
EU funded bridge across to Aveiro, a few metres on and wild flowers
Alongside the road, were villas, cottages,fields ; some ostentatious,eg, 2 field artillery guns! Then a flowering tree.
Walking into Ovar, this little chapel,
inconguously saved between pristine villas. A relatively wealthy area,Toyota has a plant here.
The town has seven chapels, linked in a walkabout; our charming receptionist at the hotel, told us the town does not get the notice it deserves, because of poor, local political representation.
View of the pool from our room at The Hotel Meia Lua * 3 Star; just the ticket for EnsuitePilgrims…no camping around here!Bus to the coast, 5 km. Walk along a forest road, with a cycle / pedestrian path; investment for fitness!
Thought we should have a fora and flora interval, here. Take time to smell the flowers, but avoid the reptiles…
As we say in Small Heath:-
“Alright our kid?”
Beware the snake on the path
Roundabout above our destination.
Dinner is served,
Keeping in touch with home, a photo of my beautiful grandson,e- mailed from Hannah, my equally beautiful daughter & proud auntie:-
If you look closely, you will see a tiny, green bird; a live one,preached on this beautiful , young lady’s. shoulder until she stopped for the photo.
15km boardwalk over the dunes.
Mac having the first of his 2 – a day!
He said it was really good, but not as good as Hannah’s….
Walking towards Porto,
at Miramar we took the train,mainly because one of our party was suffering badly from blisters.
View from the train window.Porto is such an exciting city to approach.
Wonderfully tiled entrance hall to the station.
Bed rest at the”Star Inn” *** hotel, 4.5 km from the airport; chosen because of paranoia of some members wanting to be near the airport! Tried hard to get one under the flightpath – all booked.
Some rested in hotel. I walked the mile Back to the Metro,for a couple of hours in Porto.
Time to start another post,I think.
Tags: ask a local, Beside the sea, fresh fish, walking in the sand- dunes
View from Porto’s tallest building, the Irmandade Dos Clerigos.
Walked up to the Cathedral, where the Caminho proper begins
View across to the Douro.
The waterfront. River views:-
Take a tram alongside the quays.
Tiles ; Portugal’s finest….
“I give you good price”.
Porto has 6 fine bridges.
I enjoyed lunch here.
take the Funicular and the stroll across the Luis 1st Bridge
Porto’s Metro system runs alongside the pedestrian walkways.
Lots more to come.
Special offer on the Cable Car down to Villa Da Gaeia.5€ return, including a port tasting – not in the cable car but in one of the many Port warehouses.
Time for a Vinho Verde and a label that brought back memories of previous holidays and a Caminho, last year
Return journey.
These were the boats that used to bring the Port Wine down the River.
” Espaco Corpus Christi,” where I got my “pilgrim Passport” stamped and an altar dedicated to St James
Valter designed this T-shirt as a momento of last year’s Caminho, with the names of all of us who met along the way.
He also gave me one of the mallets,you can see, that everyone buys on this Feast Day.I shall give it to my grandson,Tom Henry.
Isabella came,too and we all recollected some of our great memories of last year ‘s walk.
or,inland.
The food and wine.
But most impressively the hospitality and helpfulness of the Portuguese people.
Remember
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